Sound dampener/heat insulators (1 Viewer)

[NeverGiveUpYota]

My apologies if I'm kicking a dead horse. Trying to get this clear and concise in my head. Talk to me about the options and the layering. I have done much reading... Some say go with the higher end stuff but some say the cheaper products found at Lowes (Peel & Seal) and Home Depot (Frost King foil over foam) do a pretty good job as well.

You really don't need 100% floor coverage with the butyl mat. It is designed to be a mass loader, and eliminate structure borne noise (ie. rattles).

The foil mats are best used by placing pieces in the middle of the largest panels (ie. rattle focal point... remember the rattle is from a low frequency sound wave). The more the merrier though....

These mats do very little to block higher frequency sounds (ie. wind/road noise)

For the higher frequency sounds you really need a barrier like MLV (mass loaded vinyl), or foam, or jute, or carpet or a combination of those.

Hope that makes sense.

Be cautious with what "sound deadner" you decide to use. Some name brand products are actually crap. I have tested several them and many melted over one summer.

FWIW those "in the know" use a roofing product called "peal and seal". IIRC The newer formulations are high content butyl, much like the good sound deadner products.

It's made to withstand the harshest environments (like on top of a roof). I have installed in in many vehicles, and it is still intact after several years (I live in Arizona... car temps can get up to 180* in the summer). Only problem is that it comes in 6" rolls so the install can be more work. Oh, and it does not smell, at all, like some people claim.

The layering is where I am a tad foggy. Dry ice to stock bed liner. First layer would be the foil coated butyl mat (for low frequency) rolled with a tennis ball then a layer of the foil covered foam then jute (for high frequency/wind) and lastly the carpet... Am I on the correct track? Some threads say if there are gaps in coverage then sound will simply make its way to that unlayered area and vibrate through? Is it a matter of how nit-picky I want to get?

 

[erse]

Is it a matter of how nit-picky I want to get?

I think yes may be the answer to your question!

I have read a lot of sound deadening threads and websites.There seem a few different ways to go from cheap to more than you spent on your first land cruiser. I am trying to make it out the door to work on time so don't have too much time to dig out some of the threads, I will try later if no-one else gets to them in the mean time.

This one though is a good start


Sound Deadener install w/pics in a Diesel - Wow!!

This website has a better look at a lot of the elements to consider. All of the items they mention can be had elsewhere for cheaper I believe but its worth a look for an idea of the process


Sound Deadener Showdown | Your Vehicle Quiet

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Looks about like the conclusion I came too also. Read both of those and def don’t have deep pockets for doing it the ‘right/best’ way so my arm is laden w/ what I listed above and will see what kind of mess I can make.
Thank you for piping in.

 

[Jaric00n]

just wrap the whole thing with it...call it a day

=3

 

[erse]

@Aloha Jen did one of her rigs with cheap stuff from big box stores. She seemed please with the results.She also avoided sticking it down which may be considered a good idea by many

 

[Prairie Swamp]

I think it's really one of those things where it's a matter of how much time and money are you willing to spend, what are your goals and also a case where the law of diminishing returns kicks in. You can double the cost to get the next 10%.

I have used Seal and Peel and I feel for the price (compared to Dynamat) it's effective. I'm uptight but I don't know that I would go with the second layer - adding thickness, cost, weight, labor for? But even at my advanced age I seem to have a high tolerance for noise and a rough ride.

I don't get the comment on high frequency - anything that will stop low frequency will stop high frequency (you can hear the massive bass coming from the guy with the obnoxious car stereo, but if the windows are rolled up you can't hear the highs.)

I say Seal and Peel, do your carpet and move on.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

@Aloha Jen did one of her rigs with cheap stuff from big box stores. She seemed please with the results.She also avoided sticking it down which may be considered a good idea by many

Sticking it down is more permanent but it will dampen the low frequencies because it's a lamination - think plywood. I would and have used Peel and Seal and stuck it down. The floor is pretty rigid in these trucks, but for something like the doors or side panels in back you want it stuck for the rigidity and dampening that a lamination provides.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Thank you!
I gather from reading that NOT sticking it down won’t help lessen vibration and sound. Essentially it won’t muffle if it’s not secure. Am I wrong?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Put a pillow over someone’s face loosely versus holding it down snug. You tell me which one is better?

 

[Prairie Swamp]

In my opinion (having taken a 400 level Acoustics class) you want it stuck to block noise and dampen vibration. Sheet metal is like a drum head. You stick a second layer to it and you drop the resonant frequency way down.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Put a pillow over someone’s face loosely versus holding it down snug. You tell me which one is better?

I've never tried it but yeah exactly.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I’ve never done it either but it’s crossed my mind a few times w/ a few folks who snored like chainsaws.

 

[erse]

I’ve never done it either but it’s crossed my mind a few times w/ a few folks who snored like chainsaws.

I didn't know you were friends with my ex-wife..

 

[IslandJ]

No expert here as the first time I did anything like this was my current fj60.
Heres what I noticed... I ended up using the cruisercrap stuff and sticking it down to the floor after cleaning as best as I could.
The floors on my rig is in great condition and only took a little wire wheeling to get the remainder of the jute/glue off.
I left the stock floor liner stuff because it looked like fresh from the factory.
Banging around on the floor with no sticky foil, sticky foil stuck to the down and then in areas with the foil not stuck to the floor I decide I should stick it down. I was initially doing this for noise reasons. I did the entire floors, doors and sides to come.
After getting my vinyl floor back in on top of the cruiser crap was wasn't happy with the how things laid down.
It looked like the factory jute has a lot to do with smoothing the contours of the floor out. I bet if I had installed carpet it wouldn't have been as noticeable though. Anyways, I ended up pulling the interior back out and installing thermozite that I found at a good price.
I doubled up the driver/passenger and thrans hump with thermozite because that where I saw the most "smoothing out" needed and I figured it would help with heat and noise. Even in the back seat and cargo areas I do notice a bit more of a muffling when I bang on the floor. Oh and with the thermozite I did do a light spray of the recommended glue to give it a tack.
Side note, I do love the vinyl but it was expensive and a challenge to work with. It still isnt sitting as well as a carpet kit but cleans up with a swipe.

If I was to do it over again I think I would honestly go with a carpet kit and use the both the cruisercrap and thermozite... or maybe spend some more time experimenting with lower cost options. The cruiser is remarkably quiet for such and old rig. Cant wait to do the sides.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

That’s a nice informative answer to the carpet versus vinyl. I much prefer carpet for looks.
Mine (the front) came up easily and power washed well at a car wash. Drip dried outdoors on a chase lounge then fully dried it inside on a portable clothes hanger thing (it was my grand mother’s) in the laundry room. Barely took two days. I’d pretreated the stains and it looks great.
Going out now to start the driver side floor w/ the dry ice. My rust is ugly on that side and I know I need to get it clear so I can patch more effectively. Fingers crossed it goes easily then I’ll add the sound dampener and heat insulator. I’ll add pics if it’s not too embarrassing.

Now if I could just find my sand mallet under the snow. My mistake letting the kid use it before the last snowstorm.

 

[erse]

No expert here as the first time I did anything like this was my current fj60.
Heres what I noticed... I ended up using the cruisercrap stuff and sticking it down to the floor after cleaning as best as I could.
The floors on my rig is in great condition and only took a little wire wheeling to get the remainder of the jute/glue off.
I left the stock floor liner stuff because it looked like fresh from the factory.
Banging around on the floor with no sticky foil, sticky foil stuck to the down and then in areas with the foil not stuck to the floor I decide I should stick it down. I was initially doing this for noise reasons. I did the entire floors, doors and sides to come.
After getting my vinyl floor back in on top of the cruiser crap was wasn't happy with the how things laid down.
It looked like the factory jute has a lot to do with smoothing the contours of the floor out. I bet if I had installed carpet it wouldn't have been as noticeable though. Anyways, I ended up pulling the interior back out and installing thermozite that I found at a good price.
I doubled up the driver/passenger and thrans hump with thermozite because that where I saw the most "smoothing out" needed and I figured it would help with heat and noise. Even in the back seat and cargo areas I do notice a bit more of a muffling when I bang on the floor. Oh and with the thermozite I did do a light spray of the recommended glue to give it a tack.
Side note, I do love the vinyl but it was expensive and a challenge to work with. It still isnt sitting as well as a carpet kit but cleans up with a swipe.

If I was to do it over again I think I would honestly go with a carpet kit and use the both the cruisercrap and thermozite... or maybe spend some more time experimenting with lower cost options. The cruiser is remarkably quiet for such and old rig. Cant wait to do the sides.

You stuck the thermozite on top of the cruiser crap?

 

[erse]

That’s a nice informative answer to the carpet versus vinyl. I much prefer carpet for looks.
Mine (the front) came up easily and power washed well at a car wash. Drip dried outdoors on a chase lounge then fully dried it inside on a portable clothes hanger thing (it was my grand mother’s) in the laundry room. Barely took two days. I’d pretreated the stains and it looks great.
Going out now to start the driver side floor w/ the dry ice. My rust is ugly on that side and I know I need to get it clear so I can patch more effectively. Fingers crossed it goes easily then I’ll add the sound dampener and heat insulator. I’ll add pics if it’s not too embarrassing.

Now if I could just find my sand mallet under the snow. My mistake letting the kid use it before the last snowstorm.

I just read a thread recently where the guy used a steamer to remove the stuck on just etc.

 

[Jaric00n]

I would put a downcomforter all around the floor of the truck call it a day....warm and cozy

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I just read a thread recently where the guy used a steamer to remove the stuck on just etc.

Yeah that was for the jute. Mine came up easily w/ a wire brush and shop vac.

 

[IslandJ]

You stuck the thermozite on top of the cruiser crap?

Yeah. I like that it won’t mold if water does get down there