(SOLVED!!) Stripped out steering rack bolt hole! Need help ASAP!!
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nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Get a pump on order
- Thread starter
- #64
Okay, literally a week ago was when I was done replacing driver side CVA, hub flange, tie rod end, tie rod boot, and bearings. A week ago was when I messed up and stripped out that (now dreaded) bolt hole. Two days ago was when we started the car and got a giant mess of a power steering (PS) system. And now one week later, ladies(?) and gentlemen, we have a fully functional, newly flushed, power steering system. Pump runs quieter than the day it was manufactured (let's hope it stays that way from now on), rack feels buttery smooth, no rigidity in the steering wheel, I could slather it up and down with all kinds of grease and still turn it easily. For posterities sake, the PS fluid I used was Total Dexron II-D. So what I did was:
1. I washed out the plastic PS reservoir. It was completely, completely caked in dirt and "non-OEM sound deadening" (lmfao) and you couldn't see the fluid inside (when looking at the reservoir from the outside) at all. I washed it down, out, and about with rotating concoctions of soapy degreaser, brake cleaner, and (most effectively) carb & choke cleaner. The carb cleaner really got in there and blasted away the dirt. I sprayed a lot of carb cleaner inside and shook it around real good with the cap on and using my fingers to block the supply and return openings. After about 3 hours of cleaning only that box, I managed to get it completely spotless. I looked around inside and the mesh that filters the PS fluid coming from the return chamber and going to the supply chamber was torn along one end and a torn off piece was wedged in there really sturdy for some reason, nothing too severe (hopefully stays that way), but will notify my dad about it. Also washed the rubber supply line from the reservoir to the pump. Didn't use brake or carb & choke cleaner because it's a rubber hose but I used degreaser and cleaned the mouth real good.
2. I cleaned the pressure feed tube and banjo bolts. I sprayed the mouths of the pressure feed tube (from PS pump to rack) with carb & choke cleaner and it seemed to react with the PS fluid and the metal parts I sprayed became an icy white, which I quickly cleaned off with soapy degreaser. I did this for the two banjo bolts (one at pump, another at rack) and the washers. I then pre-lubed each opening on the pressure tube and each bolt with PS fluid. I just dabbed my little pinky finger (it's your smallest finger, you really can't miss it lol) in some PS fluid that I put in the PS fluid container cap and rubbed it on every surface where PS fluid will pass through, which is everywhere inside the mouths of the pressure feed tube and everywhere on the bolts save for the bolt head.
3. I cleaned the rack hole (the originally stripped hole) out completely. I did NOT spray and degreaser, cleaner, or water directly into the hole. I mixed soapy degreaser with detergent and dishwashing soap—dishwashing soap is usually tough on grease and dirt but nothing else—into a bucket with some tap water. I then dunked a rag in the mixture and shook it around in there till it was wet, then I squeezed it out but not completely, just so that it's not dripping water everywhere. I then (CAREFULLY) used a flat screwdriver to work the rag in there to get out the metal shavings from when I tapped the hole, I did it carefully as to not wear away the (re-)threads. I had a separate bucket of clear water on the side for rising the rag and getting the shavings off. Rinse the rag, wring out the water completely, walk a distance away from your work area and shake off the rag really good to get all the metal shavings off it completely. I put it back into the soapy mixture, and did the same process about three times until shavings stopped coming out. I also took my pinky finger and stuck it into the hole a few times, rinsing it off each time, to bring out as many shavings as possible. I also took a wet wipe and stuffed it into the hole, it left behind a few strands which I carefully removed with my pinky finger and the rag. I stuck my go-pro and a flashlight into the hole and it honestly looked really clean and almost particle free, just a few little metal specs here and there.
4. Finally I coupled everything PS-related back together, made sure all vacuum lines, hoses, and clamps were clamped and torqued down. I then got a 5/8 inch transparent PVC garden hose and stuck it onto the return line to the PS reservoir and clamped it together with the existing PS return line clamp (easily movable with a pair of pliers). I then got another piece of the same garden hose, folded one end of it and zip tied the hole shut, then stuck the open end onto the return line opening on the reservoir and clamped it down with a hose clamp. It was dripping a little but I just shoved a little cap under it and caught the fluid. I then jacked the car up at the front driver and passenger side with 2 bottle jacks sitting on top of some wooden boards. Got both tires off the ground and was able to spin them (spinning one side spun the other side too, CV axles are intact). I then checked that everything was tightened down and in place, then I went into the car and turned the steering wheel from left lock to right lock, and it sucked in the new fluid and pushed out the old fluid, which was blacker than the night sky on a new moon and contained gray, metallic swirls and thousands of shiny, gray particles and chunks of black dirt. I flushed with 6 liters (6.34 quarts) or new, red PS fluid from sealed containers. I closed up the return line, putting it's hose back on the reservoir and clamping it down. Then I topped up the reservoir to tip-top, and cycled the steering wheel from lock to lock to cycle the new PS fluid through the system.
I then jacked the car down back on its tires, and put it the air filter, air filter housing, and air passage ways from the filter to throttle body, connected all vacuum lines and the mass air flow sensor and cranked the car up. It started, no PS pump noise at all, no leaking of PS fluid from anywhere. I especially inspected the pressure feed tube connection at the rack and its surrounding areas (which I thoroughly washed till it was shiny metal again) and no PS was leaking anywhere, no PS dropping on the ground, nothing. I went to turn the wheel, it was smoother than buttered pie and felt like brand new.
So that's all well and good. Now, the only last issue is, after about 5 mins of the car running, when the exhaust has gotten hot enough, smoke starts rising from the exhaust manifold area. I crawled under the car while it was running and while someone was turning the wheel from lock to lock and no PS fluid seemed to be flying onto the exhaust manifold as much as I could see. Turned off the car, turned it back on and same thing. No smoke...5 mins later, smoke, 1 min after that and lots of smoke everywhere. This is coming from the driver side of the engine only and I do not know why. I will investigate tomorrow morning. Is it possible that leftover PS fluid is now being burnt up? PS fluid sprayed everywhere in that same vicinity a week ago just before I stripped that bolt hole and started this thread? Could the exhaust be leaking? The smoke only seems to be coming from the top of the manifold because when I go under the car I see nothing. I'll attach a video below, thanks for reading my attempt at a novel.
P.S. I hooked up with a girl at a restaurant yesterday when my dad and I went to go buy the PS fluid and some other stuff, so if anything good came from my screwing up, it was that. Cheers!
1. I washed out the plastic PS reservoir. It was completely, completely caked in dirt and "non-OEM sound deadening" (lmfao) and you couldn't see the fluid inside (when looking at the reservoir from the outside) at all. I washed it down, out, and about with rotating concoctions of soapy degreaser, brake cleaner, and (most effectively) carb & choke cleaner. The carb cleaner really got in there and blasted away the dirt. I sprayed a lot of carb cleaner inside and shook it around real good with the cap on and using my fingers to block the supply and return openings. After about 3 hours of cleaning only that box, I managed to get it completely spotless. I looked around inside and the mesh that filters the PS fluid coming from the return chamber and going to the supply chamber was torn along one end and a torn off piece was wedged in there really sturdy for some reason, nothing too severe (hopefully stays that way), but will notify my dad about it. Also washed the rubber supply line from the reservoir to the pump. Didn't use brake or carb & choke cleaner because it's a rubber hose but I used degreaser and cleaned the mouth real good.
2. I cleaned the pressure feed tube and banjo bolts. I sprayed the mouths of the pressure feed tube (from PS pump to rack) with carb & choke cleaner and it seemed to react with the PS fluid and the metal parts I sprayed became an icy white, which I quickly cleaned off with soapy degreaser. I did this for the two banjo bolts (one at pump, another at rack) and the washers. I then pre-lubed each opening on the pressure tube and each bolt with PS fluid. I just dabbed my little pinky finger (it's your smallest finger, you really can't miss it lol) in some PS fluid that I put in the PS fluid container cap and rubbed it on every surface where PS fluid will pass through, which is everywhere inside the mouths of the pressure feed tube and everywhere on the bolts save for the bolt head.
3. I cleaned the rack hole (the originally stripped hole) out completely. I did NOT spray and degreaser, cleaner, or water directly into the hole. I mixed soapy degreaser with detergent and dishwashing soap—dishwashing soap is usually tough on grease and dirt but nothing else—into a bucket with some tap water. I then dunked a rag in the mixture and shook it around in there till it was wet, then I squeezed it out but not completely, just so that it's not dripping water everywhere. I then (CAREFULLY) used a flat screwdriver to work the rag in there to get out the metal shavings from when I tapped the hole, I did it carefully as to not wear away the (re-)threads. I had a separate bucket of clear water on the side for rising the rag and getting the shavings off. Rinse the rag, wring out the water completely, walk a distance away from your work area and shake off the rag really good to get all the metal shavings off it completely. I put it back into the soapy mixture, and did the same process about three times until shavings stopped coming out. I also took my pinky finger and stuck it into the hole a few times, rinsing it off each time, to bring out as many shavings as possible. I also took a wet wipe and stuffed it into the hole, it left behind a few strands which I carefully removed with my pinky finger and the rag. I stuck my go-pro and a flashlight into the hole and it honestly looked really clean and almost particle free, just a few little metal specs here and there.
4. Finally I coupled everything PS-related back together, made sure all vacuum lines, hoses, and clamps were clamped and torqued down. I then got a 5/8 inch transparent PVC garden hose and stuck it onto the return line to the PS reservoir and clamped it together with the existing PS return line clamp (easily movable with a pair of pliers). I then got another piece of the same garden hose, folded one end of it and zip tied the hole shut, then stuck the open end onto the return line opening on the reservoir and clamped it down with a hose clamp. It was dripping a little but I just shoved a little cap under it and caught the fluid. I then jacked the car up at the front driver and passenger side with 2 bottle jacks sitting on top of some wooden boards. Got both tires off the ground and was able to spin them (spinning one side spun the other side too, CV axles are intact). I then checked that everything was tightened down and in place, then I went into the car and turned the steering wheel from left lock to right lock, and it sucked in the new fluid and pushed out the old fluid, which was blacker than the night sky on a new moon and contained gray, metallic swirls and thousands of shiny, gray particles and chunks of black dirt. I flushed with 6 liters (6.34 quarts) or new, red PS fluid from sealed containers. I closed up the return line, putting it's hose back on the reservoir and clamping it down. Then I topped up the reservoir to tip-top, and cycled the steering wheel from lock to lock to cycle the new PS fluid through the system.
I then jacked the car down back on its tires, and put it the air filter, air filter housing, and air passage ways from the filter to throttle body, connected all vacuum lines and the mass air flow sensor and cranked the car up. It started, no PS pump noise at all, no leaking of PS fluid from anywhere. I especially inspected the pressure feed tube connection at the rack and its surrounding areas (which I thoroughly washed till it was shiny metal again) and no PS was leaking anywhere, no PS dropping on the ground, nothing. I went to turn the wheel, it was smoother than buttered pie and felt like brand new.
So that's all well and good. Now, the only last issue is, after about 5 mins of the car running, when the exhaust has gotten hot enough, smoke starts rising from the exhaust manifold area. I crawled under the car while it was running and while someone was turning the wheel from lock to lock and no PS fluid seemed to be flying onto the exhaust manifold as much as I could see. Turned off the car, turned it back on and same thing. No smoke...5 mins later, smoke, 1 min after that and lots of smoke everywhere. This is coming from the driver side of the engine only and I do not know why. I will investigate tomorrow morning. Is it possible that leftover PS fluid is now being burnt up? PS fluid sprayed everywhere in that same vicinity a week ago just before I stripped that bolt hole and started this thread? Could the exhaust be leaking? The smoke only seems to be coming from the top of the manifold because when I go under the car I see nothing. I'll attach a video below, thanks for reading my attempt at a novel.
P.S. I hooked up with a girl at a restaurant yesterday when my dad and I went to go buy the PS fluid and some other stuff, so if anything good came from my screwing up, it was that. Cheers!
yngmrostrvile
GOLD Star
If we are doing comedy on this thread do you know this woman?
Who keeps saying she's this woman
And she keeps messaging me from a Nigerian IP on Whatsapp
Who keeps saying she's this woman
And she keeps messaging me from a Nigerian IP on Whatsapp
- Thread starter
- #67
Lol. Block her.
Idk man, s*** just happened.
Also, here is a video of the engine smoking:
If the fluid went everywhere some probably went all over the exhaust and once it gets hot it starts to burn off hence the smoke, you could try washing it down with degreaser or brake clean and hose it off or just leave it for a few days and see if it's still happening. It would have to be a pretty hectic exhaust leak for that much smoke to come out and no smoke would come out once the car is turned off if it is, the smell could be a give away too
- Thread starter
- #69
Okay, so some smoke still oozes off after the car has been shut off, it keeps doing so until (i assume) the exhaust isn't hot enough anymore. Also, yes, it smells like burning oil. It doesn't smell like rich exhaust fumes like from the tailpipe.
- Thread starter
- #70
Also I think the PS pump pulley is bad. There's a loud squeaking sound that seems to move in tandem with the serpentine (drive) belt and although it's really loud in general, it's a bit louder when I go closer to the PS pump. Also, it subsides a little when I turn the steering wheels and it disappears altogether when I spray the belt with some lubricant. The smoke is still rising from the exhaust manifold but I haven't sprayed any degreaser or brake cleaner on it yet as there's not much room to get the degreaser close enough (it's a spray bottle like those ones for window cleaners) and i'm out of brake cleaner. There was a big spider web directly under (and touching) the exhaust manifold that had drops of PS fluid stuck all over it and I have since removed it, waited for the car to cool and smoking to stop and started the car again, there was still smoke but considerably less smoke. Should I brave it and drive the car around a little? Or should I wait to get the (supposed) PS fluid cleaned up and/or for the smoking exhaust to stop? The smoke just seems to rise up and out of the exhaust manifold body and there is no PS fluid spraying on it anymore.
Edit: Also when the smoke starts (and becomes visibly noticeable over the engine bay) the engine sounds like it's lowering in RPMs (engine is already at quiet idle by the time smoke starts) but the RPM gauge is still holding steady at 900 RPMs and the car is at normal operating temps, no overheating at all. I did add some coolant (clear drinking water) to the plastic coolant reservoir, I will open the radiator cap and check the water level in the radiator. I think i'll take the car for a very slow, steady spin around the neighborhood to see what happens. I'm pretty sure residual PS fluid is on the exhaust manifold and that's what's causing the smoke, it really cannot be anything else at this point. The boiling point (and it follows the evaporation point) for ATF is 315 degrees Celsius (599 degrees Fahrenheit) and I highly doubt the exhaust will ever get that hot. Maybe i'll just get some brake cleaner on it later. For now, slow driving around the neighborhood and i'll report back.
Edit: Also when the smoke starts (and becomes visibly noticeable over the engine bay) the engine sounds like it's lowering in RPMs (engine is already at quiet idle by the time smoke starts) but the RPM gauge is still holding steady at 900 RPMs and the car is at normal operating temps, no overheating at all. I did add some coolant (clear drinking water) to the plastic coolant reservoir, I will open the radiator cap and check the water level in the radiator. I think i'll take the car for a very slow, steady spin around the neighborhood to see what happens. I'm pretty sure residual PS fluid is on the exhaust manifold and that's what's causing the smoke, it really cannot be anything else at this point. The boiling point (and it follows the evaporation point) for ATF is 315 degrees Celsius (599 degrees Fahrenheit) and I highly doubt the exhaust will ever get that hot. Maybe i'll just get some brake cleaner on it later. For now, slow driving around the neighborhood and i'll report back.
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- Thread starter
- #71
Okay, update. We have a mechanically functional LX470. The smoke from the exhaust area has stopped, the steering feels perfect. It has some trouble aligning but turning from lock to lock clears it up along with the VGRS light. The squeaky belt noise is gone at least at idle and the ride feels buttery smooth, except for the bulgy tires. The only thing left is the brakes. When I was fitting back the suspension parts (different project, this is a spinoff from that), I had to remove the brake line for the driver side caliper to push the caliper bushing back down so I could fit the caliper over the rotor. Now the brake pedal goes to the floor and there is almost 0 braking power before the pedal hits the floor. All we need to do is bleed the system. We're going to take it to a workshop for that because (hopefully) it should be easy enough for them to not screw up.
GG guys. After 1 week of a rollercoaster we finally did it.
Big thanks to @JunkCrzr89 for the much needed comedy and getting me on the right track to fixing the issues.
Thanks to @Njck22 for that also much needed tough love (lol).
Thanks to @xplore for letting me know the steering rack wasn't on fire.
And massive thanks to @everyone (hopefully this doesn't notify the entire IH8MUD forum lol) who was part of this horrid (yet insightful) learning experience.
First time using a tap, first time flushing a PS system, first time messing up a steering rack, but it's all good.
Hip, Hip, Hurray!! (lol been waiting to do that)
GG guys. After 1 week of a rollercoaster we finally did it.
Big thanks to @JunkCrzr89 for the much needed comedy and getting me on the right track to fixing the issues.
Thanks to @Njck22 for that also much needed tough love (lol).
Thanks to @xplore for letting me know the steering rack wasn't on fire.
And massive thanks to @everyone (hopefully this doesn't notify the entire IH8MUD forum lol) who was part of this horrid (yet insightful) learning experience.
First time using a tap, first time flushing a PS system, first time messing up a steering rack, but it's all good.
Hip, Hip, Hurray!! (lol been waiting to do that)
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Congrats. Smooth seas don't make skilled sailors.
Africaster
SILVER Star
Hey @Chibu …. that was a hoot and made my day, tx … maybe it’s an African thing, but your self deprecating style resonated big time 
. The concept of being forced to “make a plan/do” is not completely understood by those who’ve never had to think that way … however, there are many aspects of these vehicles where the old baling wire and pliers methodology will do more harm than good (pity there isn’t a list of which is which) but by the sounds of things, you’ll be fine. Deep breaths, measure twice and remember the crocs are fatest near the shortcut across the river. Hamba kahle.
. The concept of being forced to “make a plan/do” is not completely understood by those who’ve never had to think that way … however, there are many aspects of these vehicles where the old baling wire and pliers methodology will do more harm than good (pity there isn’t a list of which is which) but by the sounds of things, you’ll be fine. Deep breaths, measure twice and remember the crocs are fatest near the shortcut across the river. Hamba kahle.- Thread starter
- #74
The Crocs are fattest near the shortcut across the river. Will add that one to my book of proverbs; cheers brother.Hey @Chibu …. that was a hoot and made my day, tx … maybe it’s an African thing, but your self deprecating style resonated big time
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Africaster
SILVER Star
Fattest … not fastest
- Thread starter
- #76
My eyes just ain't what they used to beFattest … not fastest
What size tap did you end up using, I’ve found myself in the same position as you…Okay, update. We have a mechanically functional LX470. The smoke from the exhaust area has stopped, the steering feels perfect. It has some trouble aligning but turning from lock to lock clears it up along with the VGRS light. The squeaky belt noise is gone at least at idle and the ride feels buttery smooth, except for the bulgy tires. The only thing left is the brakes. When I was fitting back the suspension parts (different project, this is a spinoff from that), I had to remove the brake line for the driver side caliper to push the caliper bushing back down so I could fit the caliper over the rotor. Now the brake pedal goes to the floor and there is almost 0 braking power before the pedal hits the floor. All we need to do is bleed the system. We're going to take it to a workshop for that because (hopefully) it should be easy enough for them to not screw up.
GG guys. After 1 week of a rollercoaster we finally did it.
Big thanks to @JunkCrzr89 for the much needed comedy and getting me on the right track to fixing the issues.
Thanks to @Njck22 for that also much needed tough love (lol).
Thanks to @xplore for letting me know the steering rack wasn't on fire.
And massive thanks to @everyone (hopefully this doesn't notify the entire IH8MUD forum lol) who was part of this horrid (yet insightful) learning experience.
First time using a tap, first time flushing a PS system, first time messing up a steering rack, but it's all good.
Hip, Hip, Hurray!! (lol been waiting to do that)
