Any thoughts from the experts? This would go in a 77 FJ40 with a 50-amp alternator. I know I'll have to cut off the plug and use the OEM, but other than that, do these perform more reliably and/or eliminate minor voltage flicker?
Solid State Voltage Regulator (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MidLife1977
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
spotcruiser
Geezer
That honestly looks just like the OEM relay-type regulator. I bought a solid-state regulator for my '78 from Wagner some years ago and I really love it. The voltage output is always rock-solid, without the jumping that you get with the relay-type of regulator. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be enough interest, because Wagner doesn't keep them in stock. If enough people ask about them, they might run a batch.
ND EXT REG-TOYOTA LANDCRUISER
The earlier version could probably be made to work with correct swapping of the connector.
ND EXT REG-TOYOTA
ND EXT REG-TOYOTA LANDCRUISER
The earlier version could probably be made to work with correct swapping of the connector.
ND EXT REG-TOYOTA
Last edited:
John in Utah
SILVER Star
The one you have pictured looks like the OEM just with a sticker on it. I'd be skeptical of any solid state regulator with a removable cover like that.
I got this one and it works great, bolts right up and works with the old connector.
# IN551 - Voltage Regulator for Denso Alternators - 12 Volt, B-Circuit, IG-N-F-E-L-B (IG) Terminals, 14.3 Vset
I got this one and it works great, bolts right up and works with the old connector.
# IN551 - Voltage Regulator for Denso Alternators - 12 Volt, B-Circuit, IG-N-F-E-L-B (IG) Terminals, 14.3 Vset
I tried to replace my regulator with a solid state OEM style reg this past year. Went through NAPA and got the number for the one that looked like the Wagner above, listed as solid state in the description and had my local place order it. When it showed up it was just a regular unit. So I had them go grab me one like I had been running off the shelf.
I had reg issues years ago and a shop put in a solid state electronic unit common to old Fords as I recall. I rigged up a plug so it plugs into the flat plug of the regulator with a Toyota end on that to go the stock wiring. Works fine and cheap to replace, so that is another option out there. As I said, when the fancy OEM one came wrong, I just had them grab this Ford style off the shelf and went on.
Here is an example from Summit: Tuff Stuff Performance Replacement Alternator Regulators 7540
Get the plug for it and splice your factory plug to that and you can easily be plug and play and easy to replace reg if it fails too.
I had reg issues years ago and a shop put in a solid state electronic unit common to old Fords as I recall. I rigged up a plug so it plugs into the flat plug of the regulator with a Toyota end on that to go the stock wiring. Works fine and cheap to replace, so that is another option out there. As I said, when the fancy OEM one came wrong, I just had them grab this Ford style off the shelf and went on.
Here is an example from Summit: Tuff Stuff Performance Replacement Alternator Regulators 7540
Get the plug for it and splice your factory plug to that and you can easily be plug and play and easy to replace reg if it fails too.
That's an interesting idea. Ford VRs have the four wire input though. I think they go I- Ignition F- Field S- Stator A-Battery.
How would you hook up the three wires to those? I think the difference is the Toyota part allows the juice to flow from the alternator to the battery, and the Ford part acts as a gate between the alternator and the battery. Not sure it's compatible in the same way. Might need to follow the Mustang way of doing it or something.
Any thoughts?
I used that one for a while. Ultimately I found the best solution for me was to upgrade to a gm alternator. But if I recall that one worked fine and was indeed solid state if I recall. Its been a few years now though.
You are right, looks like I failed to mention there is an extra wire added by the electrical shop that originally did the conversion on my truck many years ago. It is just a wire added to the big "B" terminal I believe on the alternator, same terminal the primary charge wire comes off and feeds to the VR, I suppose to the "A" terminal as you have them labeled, the other three are there in the factory plug.
The white and blue charging wire still travels to the ammeter and on over to the battery. Amp meter still does its normal thing.
Thanks for the reply.
You must have a different year cruiser than I. My 71 has a 3 wire VR, and all the wires are white with stripes.
(E)arth- black stripe between VR and Alternator
(F)ield- green strip between VR and Alternator
(Ig)nition- red stripe between VR and Ignition switch
The remaining terminal on my alternator is
(B)attery and is the white with blue stripe (WL in schematic) that goes to Ammeter->Battery.
Your (B) goes to the VR, or maybe it's the Field?
Mine is a 73, same wiring as yours off the top of my head. I just know there is an extra jumper from the B to the VR. I'd have to look at what terminals on the Ford VR it goes to, but I think you have it figured out. The VR has a flat plug, I spliced onto that plug with a factory VR plug and then the extra wire comes into the Ford VR plug. I'll have to look to double check all this, just as I recall.
