Solid axle rebuild

[beatdown83fj60]

Good write up, FAQ material and yes, very clever. I have read about people cleaning the knuckle balls up real well, and smothering them with JB weld, and then sanding down to take care of those pits, with the thought of it being easier on the knuckle wipers, but I didnt do it when I rebuilt mine years ago and it held up fine. That pic with the J-arm makes me cringe, just thinking about how mine probably won't wait until I have high steer to break in half. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that on Pirate I read that you want the knuckle preload to be a little heavier if you plan on running larger tires, but not above what the FSM specs.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Grease that seal!!!! And the length of the axle you will slide through it...

Also grease the birfield and fill the knuckle cavity 3/4 full per the FSM.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Gasket and spindle....

Dust shield, gasket, and seal (dont' forget to grease that before the hub goes on)... The 2 holes at the bottom are farther apart than that top 2, so all this stuff only goes on one way. This is the drivers side, just for parts reference.

These all get bolted on together to 38 ft/lbs.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Inner bearing and seal. (Better grease that seal too!!!)

Outer bearing all greased up.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Stick the hub on the spindle and install the washer and nut. Torque nut to 43 ft/lbs and turn hub back and forth a few times. Then adjust preload to 2.2-8.6 lbs on a spring scale. Pull the spring from a lug stud.

Install lock washer and lock nut, remember to bend a tab over each nut in such a way that they will not loosen up.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Gasket and hub body.

Here's the locking hub rebuild thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=149776

Don't forget the antiseize on the cone washers!!! Torque to 23 ft/lbs. The bolt in the axle end is just to pull it out and install the snapring.

Install hub cover and torque to 7 ft/lbs.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Here's the breather all apart for cleaning, no sense rebuilding the axle just to have the clogged breather blow oil out the seals......

All together, just need to do the other side now.....

And the whole thing, in case someone doesn't know what an axle looks like!

 

[Red_Chili]

It's worthwhile to add a barb fitting in place of the breather and run it up into the engine compartment. I terminated mine in a fuel filter (cheep). Did the same with the rear, just mounted the fuel filter very high and protected.

A hot diff immersed in cold water will SUCK IN the water through the stock breather.

All-Pro sells a stud kit that makes mounting the spindle a joy, vs. the bolts. Alternatively, I have seen guys use bolts with the heads cut off and slots cut for a screwdriver. Two of these will align the spindle perfectly, then just install the bolts.

 

[Delirium]

Jerod, thank you for taking the time to do this. You have really helped make my life easier when doing!

-Nick

 

[Toast]

Gasket and hub body.

Here's the locking hub rebuild thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=149776

Don't forget the antiseize on the cone washers!!! Torque to 23 ft/lbs. The bolt in the axle end is just to pull it out and install the snapring.

Install hub cover and torque to 7 ft/lbs.
View attachment 142727View attachment 142728View attachment 142729

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but I had a question about that little gold bolt that goes in the very end of the axle. If I understand correctly you just tighten it up to pull the axle in and then once the snap ring is in place you remove it??

 

[KLF]

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but I had a question about that little gold bolt that goes in the very end of the axle. If I understand correctly you just tighten it up to pull the axle in and then once the snap ring is in place you remove it??

On solid axles, you can screw a bolt in that threaded hole to pull the Birfield out, this makes it easier to get that pesky snap ring back on after you put the hub body on. But then you take it back out, I don't think you can put the locking hub knob together with the bolt installed.

There IS supposed to be a bolt installed in the end of that shaft on IFS.

 

[Toast]

Ok cool because my buddy's ifs keeps backing those bolts out into the hub...weird
Thanks KLF

 

[Delirium]

Hey so, how tight should the 8 bolts be that hold the wiper seal to the back side of the knuckle? I was tightening down the stock bolts and stretched one, which isn't a big deal because I got replacement bolts with the Trail Safe seal kit I'm installing, but I didn't see any kind of torque specs in the FSM for those bolts...

Also, When using the spring tension gauge/scale, I want to hook it to the hole on the end of the arm that the tie rod goes in and pull the spring scale towards me (perpendicular to the vehicle), correct? When I test it this way, after re-using the stock shims, I get like 8 lbs, which seems a bit on the low side (I don't want my steering to be too loose). I'm wondering if I should add/remove the thinner shim from the top to make it a little higher? After I bolt the wiper seal in place the preload goes up to like 20+ though, which I'm assuming is just because of the new wiper seal not being broke in yet.

Thanks!