Solar Converter Hook Up

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I got my recieved my solar converter yesterday from home and read through the directions, as well as Greg's guide (thanks!). Three questions:

1) From what I understand, the solar unit can be used as EITHER a equalizer OR a power converter depending on how its hooked up. Or does it equalize as it converts too? Either way, one battery is new and the other's load test checked out ok so i really only need it to convert 24V to 12V....


2) I understand the procedure for wiring it in, but there is only one 12V lead off the converter so what are my options for wiring it to multiple accessories (lights, cb, etc...)? Greg brought up the possibilty of wiring it to some sort of fuse strip. Can some one expand on this for me? Where do you get parts for this and how do you wire it? Other possibilities?

3) Tips on how/where to mount the unit? Where are some good locations to mount the converter in a 60? Does it need to stay completely dry or can it be submerged (water crossings etc.)?

Pics and tips of your setup welcome! TIA

:bounce:
 
I mounted mine on the LS engine compartment behind the Air Box. I used the 12v output to trigger a relay that runs a fuse block. The board does not seem to be coated or epoxy dipped so I would plan on keeping it dry. My truck is SOA with 35s so I don't think I will be submerging it.
Gary
 
If you hook up the 12v lead to the low side battery positive pole then you are in equalization mode. This means that the unit can sense the voltages of both batteries and is able to shunt current from the high side battery to charge the low side as needed.

If you take the 12v lead and just run your accessories off of it, then you are in step-down conversion mode. This means that the unit will take the current coming in from the 24v lead and step it down to half, giving you 12v good up to 20A.

I beleive that the box of the unit is weatherproof, but I mounted mine so that it stays dry. I have mine on equalization mode, and I run a 4 gauge wire from the low side positive pole to a fuse block in my kick panel. I then just wire all of my 12v accessories to this 12v fusebox. Nice and neat, and you don't ever have to worry about weather corroding the fuseblock connections.
 
By far the simplist hookup is to simply convert 24V to 12V.

You can run the white wire (solder and shrinkwrap) to any location you like, and end it at a fuse block like this: http://www.boating-supply-n-accessories.com/Cole-Hersee-General-Modular-Ato-Fuse-Block-6Gang.asp

I've seen blocks from 4 fuse to 8 fuse at my local auto retailer.

The Solar Converter is in a Weatherproof, NEMA 4 enclosure so should be good to go. Any I have installed have been high in the engine compartment, so fate is not tempted. I have mounted one in an HJ60, and think I used two stock holes in the inner fender skirt, front left side of the engine bay.

You can do as Stone has suggested, and simply hook the converter up to load balance (the white wire goes to the lowside positive pole), then run a wire off the same pole to a fuse block.

Be aware, if you have one battery that loses a charge faster then the other, and have the converter hooked up to load balance, the poor battery (even though it showed okay with a load test) will draw down the good battery, as the balancer does what it is designed to do. As mentioned, the simplist and easiest install is convert mode only.

gb
 
I went down to napa and they did have a 6 fuse block. 8-10 would be nice though for future ad-ons and that one Greg posted to is only $1.00 more for 4 more. Greg, have you ordered from that supplier before? I am tempted or order one now....

Also, is it necessary to wire in a rely before the fuse block as waggoner mentioned?
 
I have never ordered on-line for these items; just headed over to a local supply place and picked one up there.

Using relays can be a nice touch. That said, I have not used one for my CD, Stereo etc.

If your electrical draws are at the front (lights, etc), as well as your converter, it would be nice to trigger the power through a relay, from the dash mounted switch. This would be more efficient, as the runs between the power source and the appliance are shorter.

Gary, why did you put the relay in front of the fuse block? Do you have the converter hooked up in load balance mode, or to simply convert?

gb
 

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