Builds So now I have a BJ74...

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I replaced my 24v oil sender last year as I was receiving no signal at all, still no signal, then got my oil receiver fixed by gauge shop, now it works.
Hot idle hangs low, and driving it sits in lower line or just a fraction below the lower line of normal range, would prefer to have it sit higher for peace of mind.
Thinking of putting a 20/50 oil in and see if that makes any difference
From my experience, changing the viscosity of the oil made no noticeable difference.
 
My oil pressure was sitting at the bottom of my gauge while driving so I installed a mechanical gauge and have heaps of pressure factory gauges aren't accurate so low on mine was about 60psi little bit above was 80 psi or higher my mechanical gauge only goes to 80 but the needle spins further
 
When you install a mec gauge, do you generally use the same thread where your sender screws into, or is there other options, as I would still like to have an operational dash gauge, although poor but still operational ?.
 
In the past we would test the oil pressure if people were concerned, I think you can calibrate the gauge manually...... Remember these engines will shut down on low oil pressure I think something like 3psi or lower, thats LOW.....

Some people need a little gauge with numbers to feel better....:steer:
 
When you install a mec gauge, do you generally use the same thread where your sender screws into, or is there other options, as I would still like to have an operational dash gauge, although poor but still operational ?.

There is at least 1, if not 2 or 3, threaded ports parallel to and in line with the OEM sender port as you move back along the block towards the firewall.

In post #6 in this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bj42-refurbisment.601818/ Crushers uses the one furthest back and closest to the firewall. That's on a 3B but it's on the 13bt too.
 
Here is how a lot of people do it including myself aftermarket gauges are a different thread pitch one is 1/8bsp the other is 1/8 npt so you will need an adapter or "t" piece like mine here's the pic
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I was also able to get out spend some time behind the wheel...
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All in all the 74 is a blast to drive around, I love humming around in the desert with it. Definitely a different experience then bombing around in the 80. I am really looking forward to getting a new suspension under this thing, with the warn out springs it bottoms out on every bump and flex is non existent when the spring sit on the bump stops. I think most all of the pops and creeks will come out with new tie rods and fresh Old Man Emu. But that's after the intake hose, 12v converter, pressure sender, knuckle rebuild...
 
Got my spare tire modified to fit the 235/85-16. All I did was flip the mount and add an extra 1" wheel spacer I got from a buddy. It is not the most ideal set up compared to a proper swing out, but now I can take the matching spare around with me. The door seems to open and close fine with the extra weight of the new spare. In the future I would like to mod the door and hinges a bit to handle the extra weight.

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I had to cut and flatten the flange to clear the wiper, test fitting before paint.

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Be sure to hold on to the door when you open it. If it gets awy from you it will hit the check pretty hard with the extra weight.

Your rotors are on the way......:)
 
Instead of modifying the carrier, I modified the bumper so that the weight of my 16" tire rides on the bumper, not just on the door.
I pulled off the decorative chrome "bumper" and had a local shop fab a piece of 1/4" channel to fit over the cross frame and extend out the sides to protect the body. This substantially increased the strength of the tow point and I added a dropped receiver hitch with the tow loop. I remounted the decorative chrome bits onto the new channel so the tire slides up onto it. The whole assembly is much stronger now.
 
Bad idea in my opinion.

The frame and body move independently and there is a real possibility that body/frame flex will damage the RH rear door where the bracket mounts to it.
The body goes down and the frame goes up.....shoving the tire/bracket into the door.
 
Nope. The chrome ' bumper' is mounted to absorb any movement. It's been like that for years and none of what you state has ever happened.
What you fear could happen if the body mounts are shot. In this case they are not.
 
Cool.


I drop of ledges often and I would bend mine if I had a similar set-up. The bumper would get driven upward into the tire in that case.

Driver + terrain + "technique".....:lol:
 

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