So How Hard is it to do a cut and turn? (1 Viewer)

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Stock '60 series springs will not live long in SOA configuration. Keep it on the road and lightly loaded and they will last 2-3 years maybe. Take it on the trails and they will die. I have seen some sets last 3-4 trail runs. I have seen some die on a single trail run.

I have personally built/wheeled 5 SOA '60 series rigs which had the springs die. I have seen no one else's which have survived any better. This includes brand new factory springs in once case.

A set of unsagged OEM springs under a SOA '60 means it has not been done of long and or has not been used on the trails.

AALs will slow the death of stock springs but not prevent it.

If you want to run 38s or larger you will need the extra lift of the OME springs anyway.


BTDT.

Install OME springs or chevy springs.

Mark...
 
Stock '60 series springs will not live long in SOA configuration. Keep it on the road and lightly loaded and they will last 2-3 years maybe. Take it on the trails and they will die. I have seen some sets last 3-4 trail runs. I have seen some die on a single trail run.

I have personally built/wheeled 5 SOA '60 series rigs which had the springs die. I have seen no one else's which have survived any better. This includes brand new factory springs in once case.

A set of unsagged OEM springs under a SOA '60 means it has not been done of long and or has not been used on the trails.

AALs will slow the death of stock springs but not prevent it.

If you want to run 38s or larger you will need the extra lift of the OME springs anyway.


BTDT.

Install OME springs or chevy springs.

Mark...

I've had problems with my AAL 60 springs as well. Broke my main leaf off at the front eye last CMCC. I've got stock 60 springs in now and they're flat at ride height on the street. I'm going to upgrade to 75 series springs and see how they do when I get the coin.
 
My most recent set of failed springs were under an FJ62. with the addition of the overload leaf from a '79 FJ55 (only year model that used that design) the springs held up for a couple of years of road use and 3-4 light trail runs with light loads.
During the Cruiser Trek in 2010 with a moderate load and moderate wheeling they lost about 3 inches of height... completely flat. A month later with a light load running down the Alaska highway they wound up arched backwards. During fireroad style wheeling at "Ruby-con" one of the mains snapped. I drove back up the Alaska Highway with firewood lashed between the frame and springs. (Rode surprisingly well!)

I had one FJ60 lose all the arch and go negative just from being secured to a trailer when it was shipped to Colorado from Alaska.

Another did the same after running the Golden Spike trail at Moab one time.

One rig went through a set of FJ60 springs, a set of FJ62 springs and a set of FJ62 w/AAL... In about 6 very light use trail runs (the rig saw no street use).

Another used only on the street trashed a set of springs every year or two (sagged flat and even backwards under moderate/heavy loads and daily highway driving).


My primary trail rig (FJ40) rides on 1 ton chevy rear springs under both ends. The "56 inch" ones. I am going to be installing those under both ends of the '62 this spring and possibly under the '60 that is mainly used on the trail as well. By using this spring at both ends on both wagons (as well as my '40) if have better trail interchangeability (and they are easier to find in the salvage yards too).


Mark...
 
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Stiff shocks (I prefer Rancho 9000 series set on high for the street) and it will handle great. Retaining the sway bar or even adding a '62 style rear sway bar helps a lot. No sway bars and soft shocks and it will be scary.


Mark...
 
It is easy, but you will need to relocate spring and shackle hangers. Trail Gear sells some nice ones for a very good price. (You would be hard pressed to make then yourself for what they cost).


Mark...
 
Thanks for the reference, those new hangers are very reasonably priced. I wish I had a shop of my own to work in. How long does it usually take to complete a SOA conversion?
 
Thanks for the reference, those new hangers are very reasonably priced. I wish I had a shop of my own to work in. How long does it usually take to complete a SOA conversion?

That really depends on the knowledge you have going in and exactly what you plan on doing while it's out. It took me a while because I had to have a spindle repaired on my FF, driveshafts made, crossmember notched, etc. If you're using your stock axles, have a welder and all the know-how to do everything, I'm pretty sure you can do it in a weekend.

It took me 5 or 6 weeks to do mine. I learned a LOT!
 
The Proffits kit looks great , for the core you have to sent in you just need to strip down your axle and send it in? Also does anyone know what is included in their hysteer kit? I was planning on getting one from marlin crawler. I was also thinking about getting some 6 shooters, but I think i'll hold off on them for a bit.
 
did stock chevy springs in rear i believe like 58" out of 3/4 ton need to change shackle hanger and spring mount and perch as i believe they are narower like 2.5" but i also did some framework in the rear and i was using the rear 60 springs in front with an add a leaf till i snapped the springs and now running 4" chevy springs for the front but i am clearing 40's with a 2 inch body lift. If you plan on wheeling hard try to go with the chevy springs cheaper and much more reliable than 20 year old springs.


good luck

Bryon
 
I used to daily drive my 60 SOA and loved it other than getting in and out. Its soa aal and a 2" body lift and i'm 6'1 and its a pain to get in. I've got a v8/4l60e in mine and I would drive it at 80 -85mph pretty routinely I even hit the governer at 96mph a couple times. Obviously something that tall you'll have sightly more body roll but nothing that you need to slow down more than normal on any freeway ramps/ turns/ winding roads. I would recomend getting some rims with a lot of backspacing when you do it as well. I run the max backspacing on a 15x10 rim with 35" bfg km2s and a 1/1/2" spacer
 
FJ62 Axle

So I got a great deal on a parts fj62, and have decided that instead of sinking a bunch of money into repairing my rusted out frame, I'm gonna build up the rolling chassis of the fj62 and swap my body and engine onto it. Now my question is are there any differences between the two axles in regards to castor? I know the pinion angles are different. Should I still do a cut & turn?
 
I did not know the pinion angles were different on the fj60 and fj62.

Does anyone have the data on the angles for the two?

I am also in the planning stage of lifting my FJ60 (not sure if I am going 4" SUA OR SOA yet). I am also putting fj62 axles under it and would like to know the difference in pinion angles so I can start planing if I need to shim it or do a cut and turn if I do SOA.
 
RE: Cut-n-Turn
Saw this on Pirate. Cross section of a knuckle. Easy to see whats going on with a picture.
More pics on the link


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=951139

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