Small Question on Valve adjustments ...

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Joined
Dec 20, 2007
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Norfolk CT The Icebox of Connecticut
When I'm @ tdc and half of the valve rockers are down am I adjusting the other valve rockers to tolerance ? Never done it b4 . Thanks:rolleyes:
 
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You are adjusting the rockers that are *not* pushing down on the valves. It's pretty easy to tell the difference, because if it's pushing down on a valve, there is no way you are going to get a feeler gauge in there.
 
Here's a little table I use to keep it straight. The ones shaded yellow are adjusted when #1 cylinder is TDC on it's compression stroke. The ones shaded magenta are adjusted when #1 cylinder is TDC on it's exhaust stroke. The numbers on the left are the sequential number of the valves, starting with number one at the front, and ending with number twelve at the rear. "EX" stands for exhaust valve (adjust to .014" clearance) and "IN" stands for intake valve (adjust to .008" clearance).

For a given TDC position, I usually adjust the three exhaust valves, then the three intake valves, rotate the engine 360degrees, then adjust the other three intake and the other three exhaust. By doing them in sets of three, I don't have to fumble around as much switching feeler gauges. I also got a set of step or "go, no-go" feeler gauges which make it pretty easy to know when they are adjusted properly.

It's pretty easy to tell whether you are TDC on the compression or exhaust stroke. Rotate the engine by hand until the timing pointer is aligned with the TDC mark on the flywheel (the straight line). Wiggle the first rocker (exhaust for #1 cylinder). If it's loose, then you are on the compression stroke. If it's tight and depressing the valve, then you are on the exhaust stroke.
valve adjust table.webp
 
A little tighter

Back in the days when I had a 2F, I used to play around with different valve lash adjustments just to see what would happen. I came to the conclusion that it ran better with .007 exhuast and .005 intake clearance. This done on a warm motor of course. Just a thought, but it worked for me and it's quieter.
 
FWIK, this is supposed to be done on a cold engine....not a warm engine.

Can someone please confirm this? Actually from an advocate for cold engine valve adjustments.....we've already heard from two warm engine sponsors :)

Thanks-
 
I always adjust valves when the engine is at operating temperature.
And I just remember "1,2,3,5,7,9" works from the front (then rotate) as well as rear of the head...
 
The FSM specifies valve adjustment done w/ engine at operating temp.

There are a few weird engines (aircooleds mostly) that spec cold lash. It's more important that the lash be correct when an engine is at normal operating temp, since it only spends a few minutes running at cold temp.
 

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