Small floor jack for changing tire (1 Viewer)

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Apr 4, 2006
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Location
Phoenix, AZ
Last weekend I had a blow-out on the right front passenger tire (285x75x16) - I was off-road on a hunting trip headed back to camp. Stupid ill-prepared me, my 4ton bottle jack that I've had for years would not hold (seal gone I think). The factory bottle crank jack was useless, of course.

Thankfully my brother had a small 1.5ton floor jack. We used that (on a bit of a rocky slant) to jack up under the arm and I was able to change the tire.

I want to go this option instead of (or in addition to) a new 4ton bottle jack. I'm seeing a couple of 2ton floor jacks that appear to be intended for emergency tire-change type of purpose such as:
Amazon.com: Torin T82012 2 Ton Hydraulic Trolley Jack in Plastic Case: Automotive
2 Ton Compact Trolley Jack

I believe the LC 100 weighs about 5500lbs.

Would a 2ton small floor jack be safe? That's 4000lbs which should be fine, I would think.

What are others using to keep in their vehicle for tire changes? I'm not lugging my 3-ton fullsize floor jack around that I keep in the garage!

Thanks.
 
Another nod for the factory jack.

A floor jack moves in an arc. Lift your LX/LC with your 3 ton unit and watch how much it moves as the truck is lifted. Do this on soft ground with a smaller jack and the movement and the jack's inability to deal with it make for a dangerous situation pretty quickly.

Additionally, jacks like that weigh a lot for what they offer. In an accident they become projectiles when not properly tied down.
 
Factory jack useful for you guys...?

So now I'm wondering, when jacking up to change a front tire, where is the proper jack point? I usually lift, using a floor jack, from directly underneath the A-arm. Trying to lift from the frame is impossible given the height. :confused:

In last weekend's case I had very minimal ground clearance beneath the arm as I was a bit high-centered. I was able to get the floor jack underneath, I could not even come close with the factory bottle/crank jack nor a hydraulic bottle jack.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong...?
 
If you're in the garage I use the mid-point right under the engine, there's an actual disc to locate the jack. The a-arm moves and isn't flat, the jack could slip off of that. For the trail I'd use the same spot if possible. If there wasn't room, dig a little.
 
I'm partial to the High lift myself for out there, but
- you have to be familiar with its quirks and potential danger
- you need good lifting points or have to lift the wheels themselves
If you have a stockish 100, except for the rear hitch receiver, it's not obvious
 
If you're in the garage I use the mid-point right under the engine, there's an actual disc to locate the jack. The a-arm moves and isn't flat, the jack could slip off of that. For the trail I'd use the same spot if possible. If there wasn't room, dig a little.

This is an interesting discussion to me. After I lifted mine, I pretty much completely discounted the ability to use my factory bottle jack. I Tried using it once, but found it just didnt give me the lift I needed to get the tire off. So, I always use my High lift. However, when installing my BOIR Skids, I found the bottle jack was the easiest way to help hold things in place. So, back in my kit it went in case I ever needed to remove the skids trail side.

Anyway, enough with the history and back to the point. I think I remember the "disk" you are talking about. It was on the factory skid right? When on level ground I would have no issues placing the bottle jack under my BOIR skids and lifting. But on uneven ground, would you? There is not a "disk" that would help to keep it from slipping. So, probably better to just stick to a high-lift right?
 
coming back to the floor jack, a couple more thoughts:
- there are some aluminum ones out there, much lighter but more expensive
- keep in mind that if it's really compact, the height reach may not be much.
 
Jacking up the truck in a low clearance garage

Hey guys,

Thought this was a good place to post my newbie question:

I have a low clearance garage, and I'd like to be able to jack the truck up in order to remove the wheels for a brake job.

Is there a way to safely raise the truck by using a jack under the lower suspension arms up front? I just want to raise it a couple inches to clear the floor and then after the tires are removed, set the truck down on some jack stands.

Thanks,
RJ
 
What are you going to set on the jack stand? To get one that's appropriate sized under the a-arms you're going to have to lift the truck up a good amount. And even then, I wouldn't support the truck on the arms, only the frame.
 
Hi Trunk Monkey,

I plan to support the truck by the frame with stands after I get the wheels off, but I've only got about 6" of clearance above, which is why I'm considering raising it by the arms.

What are you going to set on the jack stand? To get one that's appropriate sized under the a-arms you're going to have to lift the truck up a good amount. And even then, I wouldn't support the truck on the arms, only the frame.
 
Not a problem, jack up vehicle 3-4 inches either by the frame/sliders or the center jacking position under the front differential. Place jackstands at appropriate frame positions. Rest vehicle on jackstands. Then jack the front lower control arm individually (there is a flat spot near lower ball joint) just enough to get the tire off the ground. Remove tire. Lower jack before working on brakes. Don't forget to chock the wheels prior to all this.
 
Sounds like a good approach, thanks for the detail!

Not a problem, jack up vehicle 3-4 inches either by the frame/sliders or the center jacking position under the front differential. Place jackstands at appropriate frame positions. Rest vehicle on jackstands. Then jack the front lower control arm individually (there is a flat spot near lower ball joint) just enough to get the tire off the ground. Remove tire. Lower jack before working on brakes. Don't forget to chock the wheels prior to all this.
 

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