Slee rear carrier drop-pin removal help?

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anhizer said:
What about using a flare nut wrench?

SKT-42232 3/8" Drive 6 Point SuperKrome® Fractional Flare Nut Crowfoot Wrench 1" - Nut Drivers - Amazon.com

You can get them cheaper but thats what i found in a quick search.
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Those look pretty cool. I've never used them. I have one new tool purchased and on it's way, so I'm going to give that a go... if that doesn't work, then perhaps I'll try these.

That's the one nice thing about running into challenges with the truck, I always end up with more tools.
 
Haha I hear you on the new tool thing. Flare nut wrenches (the one I linked is a crowd foot too) are typically used for hose fittings. I have a set from the last time I rounded over my hardline fittings doing a break job. Very nice to have when needed.
 
I second the flare nut wrench.

Only having contact on two opposing sides is what started rounding the nut. While those pliers look awesome, they're not the tool to remove stubborn fasteners.
 
I would agree that it's galling as well. Did you try to turn it clockwise?...that can really help in situations like this to free up the threads.

I'd disagree with the flare nut wrench as the problem you're likely having is that you can't put enough torque into the nut. Your tools, including that flare nut wrench, are and will flex.

You need something that will translate some real torque and shock. I'd opt for a large monkey wrench at this point. And impact with a hammer, both directly to the nut, and on the far end of the wrench. Next would be a chisel.
 
NWForester said:
While those pliers look awesome, they're not the tool to remove stubborn fasteners.
Click to expand...

TeCKis300 said:
I would agree that it's galling as well. Did you try to turn it clockwise?...that can really help in situations like this to free up the threads.

I'd disagree with the flare nut wrench as the problem you're likely having is that you can't put enough torque into the nut. Your tools, including that flare nut wrench, are and will flex.

You need something that will translate some real torque and shock. I'd opt for a large monkey wrench at this point. And impact with a hammer, both directly to the nut, and on the far end of the wrench. Next would be a chisel.
Click to expand...


So I received my cool new "pliers", and they are indeed very cool (seem very high quality). However, your hypothesis appears to have been correct: they are not the right tool for the job.

The problem with the pliers is similar to the adjustable wrench I had in that it too has too much flex even when applying pressure.

I ordered some Kroil (been trying to use PB Blaster)... so that and a monkey wrench may be the next plan.

I'd probably give up except the powder coating round the nut has gotten all messed up/rubbed off as a result of me wrestling with this, so I feel like I need to remove this now so that I can properly POR/Paint that area again...

[EDIT: also, did try to turn clockwise, and as I mentioned it felt like I got it to move 1 - 2 degrees, but couldn't get it to budge beyond that when trying to then open it...]
 
I just tried my MaxGrip Crescent wrench on my Slee Carrier and it worked fine. But I live in a mild climate. YMMV.

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Damn! I can't believe how much headache this thing is giving you! I think by this point I would have cut that sucker off (the whole pin) from the spindle sleeve, call Slee asking for a new one to weld in place! Then paint the spot.
If you really have to have the back open you can always remove the swing arm from the spindle and leave it off until resolved!
Good luck!
 
VICTORY IS MINE!!!

So with continued cursing and a great day to spend time on my driveway in the sun, I finally got the darn thing off.

You can see the tools used below. In the end, I never found a silver bullet. I believe ultimately the key ingredients were:

1) Heat (from heatgun)
2) Locking pliers
3) 1" fixed wrench
4) BP plaster... lots of BP plaster (my Kroil never arrived in time to give it a change)

Other tools used, but with little/no success:

1) 12" adjustable wrench (not in picture)
2) 18" heavy duty adjustable wrench
3) Fancy XL gripping wrench (earlier in thread)
4) 1" socket
5) Hammer
6) Breaker bar
7) Mini torch (not powerful enough to do anything)
8) Cursing
9) Bourbon

Now that I got this open, I was surprised to not find a spring inside... either the spring was never there, or as I suspect, the spring had somehow disintegrated/rusted away, and actually contributed to the difficulties in removing the nut in the 1st place... You can see in the pictures a bunch of rust like junk inside.

Thanks again to everyone for all the advice!

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Just for future reference, when you need to add heat to metal to get it unstuck use something like this. Heat guns are for shrink tube and upholstery! Glad you got it anyways!
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1454212405.606383.webp
 
Nice going! Been watching this thread. Glad you solved it!
 
Im glad you finally got that SOB off.

This thread has turned up two different tools I'll need to acquire someday. Cheers.
 
All done. So much nicer to look at now. I also added a stainless steel washer below the drop pin nut. Thanks to the replacement parts from Slee, I think it turned out great.
IMG_7116.webp
 
Also, I'm intrigued by @sonk76 's idea. When the tension latches are set there's no load on the pin, so as long as the latch holds the pin is only acting as secondary assurance that the swing out doesn't umm swing out. What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

I'm going to ponder this and consider a similar solution for in-town short commutes like errand running. The concern I have is the swing out contacting the tail gate and lift gate if not locked open by the drop pin while having the rear open.
 
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