SL vs C Load Tires (1 Viewer)

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Tire experts give me some insight or tell me I'm over thinking this process. Currently running Toyo AT3's in a 285/60/18 XL load. Dropping a wheel size down to 17" soon and plan to run 285/70/17. Eyes on the Wildpeaks AT4W or Mickey's Baja Boss. The Wildpeaks have options in SL, C, & E and the Baja's in SL and E. I don't tow and time spent on sharp rocks is less than 1%. Mostly highway and dirt trails. The Wildpeak SL's can air up to 50psi while the Baja SL's max out at 44psi. Very limited to no info on the Baja's construction in regard to the number of ply's for the SL, while the Wildpeak C loads are not all created equal in regard to ply. I definitely don't want to go to an E. Trying to keep weight down as much as possible. Is an SL adequate? Am I overthinking this or missing something? SL's puncture magnets on dirt logging roads? I don't even believe I'm gaining any thing with the Toyos in an XL over an SL. The only thing that comes to mind is the times I do air down that a C would be more beneficial than an SL. Alright, let me have it! Thanks for the feedback!
 
Tire experts give me some insight or tell me I'm over thinking this process. Currently running Toyo AT3's in a 285/60/18 XL load. Dropping a wheel size down to 17" soon and plan to run 285/70/17. Eyes on the Wildpeaks AT4W or Mickey's Baja Boss. The Wildpeaks have options in SL, C, & E and the Baja's in SL and E. I don't tow and time spent on sharp rocks is less than 1%. Mostly highway and dirt trails. The Wildpeak SL's can air up to 50psi while the Baja SL's max out at 44psi. Very limited to no info on the Baja's construction in regard to the number of ply's for the SL, while the Wildpeak C loads are not all created equal in regard to ply. I definitely don't want to go to an E. Trying to keep weight down as much as possible. Is an SL adequate? Am I overthinking this or missing something? SL's puncture magnets on dirt logging roads? I don't even believe I'm gaining any thing with the Toyos in an XL over an SL. The only thing that comes to mind is the times I do air down that a C would be more beneficial than an SL. Alright, let me have it! Thanks for the feedback!

Tire wisdom in a nutshell:
- The heavier/larger the tire; the worse your gas mileage, braking, acceleration (let your conscience be your guide)
- Any tire you choose must be designed to handle the weight of the vehicle under dynamic handling situations. In the case of the LC200, that means a tire must be able to handle a Load Limit of 2,512 lbs in the case of P-Metric and ISO-Metric tires, and 2,286 lbs in the case of LT-Metric tires.
- The higher the required RCTIP (Recommended Cold Tire Inflation Pressure) the rougher the ride. In the examples you mention on your LC200, all of these tires would be acceptable for use based on Load Limit:
Your current tire Toyo Open Country A/T 285/60R18 XL 120S: 33psi
Wildpeak A/T4W LT285/70R17 Load Range C: 40psi
Wildpeak A/T 4W LT285/70R17 Load Range E: 40psi
Wildpeak A/T 4W 285/70R17 SL 116T: 33psi
Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T 285/70R17 SL 116T: 33psi
Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T LT285/70R17 Load Range E: 40psi
- One of the major advantages of LT-Metric tires is their durability; but they are heavier, and require higher tire pressures
- Last but not least; any tire choice you make will present you with trade-offs - e.g. good durability vs. rougher ride - you must make the choice.

Personally, I chose LT285/70R17 Load Range E @ 40psi because they fit my use case best - durability is a major criterion for me, I would never feel comfortable airing down an SL tire on any road that required airing down in the first place; but you must make the choice that is best for you. Hopefully, I have given you some facts on which to better base your decision.

HTH
 
Tire wisdom in a nutshell:
- The heavier/larger the tire; the worse your gas mileage, braking, acceleration (let your conscience be your guide)
- Any tire you choose must be designed to handle the weight of the vehicle under dynamic handling situations. In the case of the LC200, that means a tire must be able to handle a Load Limit of 2,512 lbs in the case of P-Metric and ISO-Metric tires, and 2,286 lbs in the case of LT-Metric tires.
- The higher the required RCTIP (Recommended Cold Tire Inflation Pressure) the rougher the ride. In the examples you mention on your LC200, all of these tires would be acceptable for use based on Load Limit:
Your current tire Toyo Open Country A/T 285/60R18 XL 120S: 33psi
Wildpeak A/T4W LT285/70R17 Load Range C: 40psi
Wildpeak A/T 4W LT285/70R17 Load Range E: 40psi
Wildpeak A/T 4W 285/70R17 SL 116T: 33psi
Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T 285/70R17 SL 116T: 33psi
Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T LT285/70R17 Load Range E: 40psi
- One of the major advantages of LT-Metric tires is their durability; but they are heavier, and require higher tire pressures
- Last but not least; any tire choice you make will present you with trade-offs - e.g. good durability vs. rougher ride - you must make the choice.

Personally, I chose LT285/70R17 Load Range E @ 40psi because they fit my use case best - durability is a major criterion for me, I would never feel comfortable airing down an SL tire on any road that required airing down in the first place; but you must make the choice that is best for you. Hopefully, I have given you some facts on which to better base your decision.

HTH
Thank you, I was hoping you’d respond! Would you feel comfortable airing down on a C load? Any thoughts on the wildpeak c loads? My understanding there’s variations, Duraspec vs non Duraspec. My usage of airing down would be 5-8psi. Thanks so much!
 
@gaijin as always has stated it well, and his conclusion is the same as mine. If you ever go off pavement, skip the SL. I have a C load Falken RT01 on a built 200 and air down to 12-18psi regularly running trails that are right at the safe limit of a 200 and have had zero issues. The more important consideration above C vs E is how many plies the sidewall has and the overall construction of the tire. Both the RT01 and AT4W in Duraspec have 3 ply sidewalls, so if you will ever go off road or just value a resilient tire, go with one of those and don't worry about the E rating unless you tow something heavy regularly. Even a C rated 285/70R17 AT4W has a load rating of 2,755 pounds per tire, so an E rated at 3,750 pounds per tire would likely be overkill.
 
@gaijin as always has stated it well, and his conclusion is the same as mine. If you ever go off pavement, skip the SL. I have a C load Falken RT01 on a built 200 and air down to 12-18psi regularly running trails that are right at the safe limit of a 200 and have had zero issues. The more important consideration above C vs E is how many plies the sidewall has and the overall construction of the tire. Both the RT01 and AT4W in Duraspec have 3 ply sidewalls, so if you will ever go off road or just value a resilient tire, go with one of those and don't worry about the E rating unless you tow something heavy regularly. Even a C rated 285/70R17 AT4W has a load rating of 2,755 pounds per tire, so an E rated at 3,750 pounds per tire would likely be overkill.
Thanks! Pretty clear choice then unless I toss KO3 in equation. C load WP or KO3? Weight wise KO3 wins. I think KO3 are too new for ratings to be accurate.
 
My experience with SL/XL has been great over a couple dozen trips to SW colorado. I did have one fail in the center of the tread but I wasn't aired down and this road couldn't have been better material for flats if it tried.

And the 99.5% of other miles getting around town and back and forth to colorado so often don't suffer the 7-8psi of extra pressure and resulting ride stiffness. Not to mention better mileage, quieter, probably better grip...
 
My experience with SL/XL has been great over a couple dozen trips to SW colorado. I did have one fail in the center of the tread but I wasn't aired down and this road couldn't have been better material for flats if it tried.

And the 99.5% of other miles getting around town and back and forth to colorado so often don't suffer the 7-8psi of extra pressure and resulting ride stiffness. Not to mention better mileage, quieter, probably better grip...

I think you reinforced the point if you go off pavement with an SL a flat tire is more likely. For ride quality, I get to drive a lot of very nice and comfortable vehicles, and my 200 ride quality is still exceptional with the Falkens. Personal preference is key however, and that is the reason I typically don’t comment on tire threads. And for those reasons, I’m out 😂
 
My experience with SL/XL has been great over a couple dozen trips to SW colorado. I did have one fail in the center of the tread but I wasn't aired down and this road couldn't have been better material for flats if it tried.

And the 99.5% of other miles getting around town and back and forth to colorado so often don't suffer the 7-8psi of extra pressure and resulting ride stiffness. Not to mention better mileage, quieter, probably better grip...
And this is the dilemma cuz I’ve put 40k miles on my XL Toyo AT3 without issue. The amount of airing down is minimal and 5-8psi at most, never below 25psi. Planning on running the Method 703 bead grips so thinking that may give a little more flexibility with SL’s. As I mentioned any off-road is dirt logging roads, grass fields but then living in Colorado I do plan to find the time to explore SW corner and want more peace of mind.
 
Coming at it from another angle - don't hesitate to air down regardless of the tire you choose as that will always increase puncture resistance.

As you're aiming for chunky 70 aspect ratio tires, it should be able to better support airing down without pinch flats. Yes, this has the potential to expose the sidewall more, but that's still preferred.

Definitely Load Range C over E, and it doesn't necessarily imply less puncture resistance.

If you don't wheel regularly or go deep into the backcountry, I'd be comfortable with SL A/T tire as that will still have solid durability. There's a spare tire after all.

Super old video but it shows airing down should never be skipped when going off-road.
 

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