Single Battery Recommendations (1 Viewer)

[ChewBaca]

Hello,

I just purchased a Dometic 12v fridge and after looking at what i currently run on my system I wanted to get some feedback. I'm about due for a new battery, its been about 3 years and its currently working as it should but its getting close to its end of life.

My question is what battery should I jump too? I would like to go to a dual battery set up at some point but not anytime soon. If you could please let me know if I should jump to a group 31 battery (which one) or just jump to a yellow top optima or ?

Whats connected now: Dometic CFX-65DZUS, 32" LED light bar, 4" LED cube lights JL audio 5 channel amp, Midland CB.

Thanks,

 

[JCruse]

How do you know the battery is on it's last legs?

All I can tell you is that after the Wally World special that came with my 80 began acting up I put in an Odyssey 31M in it's place. Later came a 100W solar panel and two years after that I added a nice 125Ah Lifeline 31XLT in a dual battery system. Of course I went a little crazy with two big AGM's But IMO there's no reason not to use wet cell's instead and save a little coin. I'll probably do this when it comes time to replace these.

Good luck.




.

 

[spressomon]

^ I've used several different brands and types of batteries and for my applications, at least on board the 100-Series, the dual Odyssey batteries including the steel jacketed PC2150MJS Group 31 in the starting/OEM position has been a good investment. I had dual Group 31 Lifeline batteries in my former AT & Kimberley Kamper trailers and they perform at the same level. Both of these batteries use new virgin lead.

But if your vehicle use is a little more mundane and without big vibrations, shock loads, temp extremes, draw down loads, etc. you might be well served with a wet battery at a fraction of the price.

 

[titanpat57]

I did run dual AGM's in the last truck....but opted for a single Northstar 31 this time around.

I keep it topped off with a 100 solar panel on the roof, and carry a portable jump pack in the event it runs down too far. This set up saved me money, weight, and offered a less complicated answer.

Update: The main battery continues to run strong...and I have only used the jump pack on other people's vehicles.

 

[MDJ]

Why not get the best wet cell you can now to save coin and then get a good high aH AGM when it comes time to do a dual setup and use it as your secondary?

 

[ChewBaca]

Why not get the best wet cell you can now to save coin and then get a good high aH AGM when it comes time to do a dual setup and use it as your secondary?[/

I'm starting to lean more towards this route. Can you recommend a battery? Seems I have a few choices and the more I dive into it the more I get off track. Would you recommend a battery plus solar set up? Seems that would be the better option for my uses, battery first then solar a few months from now.

Thanks to all who replied.

 

[MDJ]

I would say for the AGM route, I would pick up an Odyssey that suits your 100. Optima makes a good battery, but in my opinion (and experience) they are 2/3 marketing 1/3 performance. Spiral cells (Optima) will generally hold up to a lot of vibration better than normal lead acid battery cells, but you'd really have to be rattling the hell out of your rig to bust up any battery.

Odyssey batteries can be had for literally 1/3 the price of a similar Optima and will likely have a more desirable aH rating than the Optima.

Second to the Odyssey, I'd say Northstar. All lead, reinforced, etc...

 

[MDJ]

By the way, if you shop around, you can get a dual battery system setup for less than 500 all in. National Luna management system runs about 350, Odyssey battery that will most likely suit what you plan to do...150-200.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I like flooded lead acid batteries, which are MUCH cheaper, and just as good in my experience for our applications as AGM batteries. You just need to check and add water if needed about twice per year. I have not found AGMs offer any advantage and would still use them if they did.

The problem you may face is that you need a battery for starting and with moderate deep cycle capabilities (like a RV/Marine type battery). Your truck may require a reversed terminal type battery (like 24F, or 27F) and I don't think there is a reversed dual purpose flooded battery available in that size. There is an X2Power (a Northstar AGM) at Batteries plus that would work, but it is $300+.

My advice: do your dual battery now, use regular flooded batteries and drive on. How much room do you have? If you can fit a deep cycle grp 27 or 31, you will likely have plenty of power for your needs. Add solar later. Size/Weight matters with lead acid batteries, and correlates strongly with stored power.

I would also advise you avoid the "canned" dual battery systems (especially the National Luna system-search for the endless failure thread on EP) and instead use a Blue Sea ACR and build your own system which will be cheaper, better, and have higher quality parts.

If you use 2 flooded normal batteries, and the Blue Sea ACR, it will be cheaper than just 1 AGM battery like the Odyssey, Northstar, or Lifeline. I can give you specific recommendations if you tell me what size batteries you plan to use and will fit.

If you absolutely just want 1 battery, get the biggest one that will fit. Just remember that drawing it down below a 50% charge is very bad for it, and will shorten it's life. Low voltage cut offs on the fridge are too low to avoid damage.


edit: I looked it up and it looks like your truck fits a Group 27F. Here is a specific recommendation for an AGM battery:

SLI27FAGMDP - X2Power Battery for 2006 Toyota Land Cruiser V8 4.7L 710CCA Car and Truck at Batteries Plus Bulbs

You may get by awhile with the battery you have now. Why not run that while you decide what to do? They will usually give a bit of warning about impending death.

 

[spressomon]

Regardless which battery type you go for, consider the Group 31 main battery tray kit from Slee. You'll never regret having more current storage especially if you're not going the dual battery route. Slee - Battery Related Products

FWIW: Not a fan of all things Optima or Exide Orbital batteries (gave up on E.O. after 2 warranty failures. Moved on to Odyssey and Lifeline without regret).

 

[ChewBaca]

[QUOTE="If you use 2 flooded normal batteries, and the Blue Sea ACR, it will be cheaper than just 1 AGM battery like the Odyssey, Northstar, or Lifeline. I can give you specific recommendations if you tell me what size batteries you plan to use and will fit.[/QUOTE]

Cruiserdrew & spressomon thanks for the reply. Can you give me recommendations on these 2 set ups? My AHC has been removed so i do have room to incorporate another battery when ready with the use of Slee dual battery bracket. I would like to save on coin so i would like to go the non AGM battery if at all possible but not opposed to it. I know these are loaded questions but if you can give me your 2 cents i would appreciate it.

Best non agm battery if i go with 1 single battery
Group 27 battery ?
Group 31 w/Slee tray kit?

Dual battery set up non - AGM
not sure how to move forward with this one, 31 for starting? secondary?

If i do go with a AGM single battery i would probably go with the X2 that you provided after reading through reviews and specs. My only concern is if this does go below 50% charge. I think I would need to buy a specific battery charger for AGM, i could be wrong.

Thanks,

 

[spressomon]

I'd get the battery with the best guarantee. Having said that Walmart Everlast doesn't offer a Group 31. But Carquest FWIW does @ $126, 950CCA and 1-year replacement guarantee. If you are going with a dual battery set-up I wouldn't put a deep cycle battery in the main/starter position (Odyssey, Lifeline, etc., excepted).

To confuse you even more, without knowing your electrical load requirements, if you are going with a dual battery set-up then putting a Group 31 in the OEM slot may not be the best use of budget $$. If you are going to have two circuits, leaving the OEM battery position primarily as the starting and operating battery and setting up the auxiliary battery to run your optional accessories, IMHO you'd want to put the $ towards the biggest aux battery you can fit.

You can find arguments on both sides of this coin: In a dual battery and single alternator set-up you generally want the same type of battery in both positions. If you are considering a dual battery set-up and buying two batteries I suggest the same type of battery for both positions (even though the Group size may be different for each position).

Lastly when you venture into Group 31 batteries you will probably find the + and - terminal orientation/configuration are reversed all things relative to the + and - terminals on your 100. For my G31 Odyssey I needed to reconfigure the vehicle side cables to reach/fit.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

[QUOTE="If you use 2 flooded normal batteries, and the Blue Sea ACR, it will be cheaper than just 1 AGM battery like the Odyssey, Northstar, or Lifeline. I can give you specific recommendations if you tell me what size batteries you plan to use and will fit.

Cruiserdrew & spressomon thanks for the reply. Can you give me recommendations on these 2 set ups? My AHC has been removed so i do have room to incorporate another battery when ready with the use of Slee dual battery bracket. I would like to save on coin so i would like to go the non AGM battery if at all possible but not opposed to it. I know these are loaded questions but if you can give me your 2 cents i would appreciate it.

Best non agm battery if i go with 1 single battery
Group 27 battery ?
Group 31 w/Slee tray kit?

Dual battery set up non - AGM
not sure how to move forward with this one, 31 for starting? secondary?

If i do go with a AGM single battery i would probably go with the X2 that you provided after reading through reviews and specs. My only concern is if this does go below 50% charge. I think I would need to buy a specific battery charger for AGM, i could be wrong.

Thanks,[/QUOTE]






So if you're sticking with one battery and the stock postion, you should likely pony up for a battery that can bot start your truck and tolerate some deep cycling. Any AGM that fits will do that.

If you install a dual battery system, you can use a deep cycle to run your loads (ike a fridge) and a regular starting battery to start your truck. I like the made in USA East Penn batteries you can buy at any Batteries plus.

For starting:
SLI27FM - Duracell Ultra Gold Battery for 2008 Toyota Land Cruiser V8 5.7L 710CCA Car and Truck at Batteries Plus Bulbs

For your "house" loads:
SLI27MDC - Duracell Ultra Battery Deep Cycle BCI Group 27M Marine and Boat at Batteries Plus Bulbs


That's about $200 for 2 batteries, and spend the other $ on this:
Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems SI-ACR Automatc Charging Relay - 12/24V DC / 120A : Boating Battery Switches : Sports & Outdoors



Since the batteries are only combined when charging, they do not need to match.

This will give you a really robust, cost effective system for $300 or so. Run your house loads off the house battery and let the starting battery take care of the motor. Add solar to the house side as time and funds allow.


I really like the East Penn batteries, but the Johnson Controls "interstate" batteries from Costco are fine too. Just remember that all batteries will eventually go bad, and the more you run them down and leave them, the less time they will have. AGM batteries are the same basic chemistry, so don't expect magic there. You can spend more, but not sure you'll get more.

 

[ChewBaca]

Awesome, thanks guys for your input. I will go with the dual battery set up that you posted Cruiserdrew. My only concern right now is finding the right battery tray for my second battery. Slee sells the dual tray set up but it was made for the Interstate MT7AGM-75DT. Which is smaller than the duracell. I will need to search for a battery with the same measurements of that 75DT or find another tray. The specs on that interstate is L-9 7/16, W-7, H-7 15/16.

 

[mcgaskins]

I have an ARB 50 quart fridge, and I went with a group 31 Interstate AGM battery along with the Slee battery tray in my 200. My fridge is always on and is hardwired to the battery, and there have been no issues. I do keep 2 jumper packs just in case including an Antigravity XP10, but the fridge will shut itself down if it senses voltage is getting too low to start the truck.

 

[Hiace4wd]

I actually went from a Dual Battery setup to a single battery setup, to make it more simple, cheaper and less space consuming.

However, you typically need a different battery for starting than for deep-cycling (with fridge and such)
Because of this, I went for an Optima YellowTop 5.5 who can do both.

Rated at 975 CCA it actually gives me 1200 CCA when full (measured around 0 degrees celcius)
At 50% loaded it still gives me 1000 CCA, well enough to start any vehicle.
My solar controller handles the cut-off which I configured, this way my fridge and interior lights etc can never drain the battery to far.
(I have a huge 175 Watt solar panel on it)