Silver Surfer

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fjfodee said:
I had the same problem with my 60. Never figured it out. Sold it 4yrs ago and the guy that bought it still drives...:meh:

As far as the heater goes, I cut the hose on the firewall and installed a manual shutoff. You will have to get the OEM valve in the hot position or remove it all together.

Redneck....yes
Worked......yes
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I'm good with bypassing that valve. We did that on my boss's F250 with the manual cutoff. People want loads of money for those valves. I have already bypassed the rear seat heater on the surfer and on my 89 Suburban.

I am going to remove the AC condenser this weekend just to make sure air flow is good. The compressor, if working, was going to become on board air anyway.

I willing to bet that there are air pockets forming in the cooling loop during long runs at 55MPH that are causing this cooling issue. Stupid highest point in the cooling system is at that heat valve.
 
That dash gauge sucks, and is a headache for many 60 owners. Mine will creep toward hot when I'm running down the interstate with the RPM's up. I hooked up my scanner to see what the ECM was reading when the gauge was near H and it was 205ish, but the sending units are in different places. I have a new AutoMeter temp gauge coming to replace the ching-chong Autozone one that has been broken forever, so I can keep a better eye on my temps.

My cooling did improve after I put a new radiator in, but it still creeps up past normal from time to time. I also removed the under hood liner to help shed some heat quicker.
 
Yeah, I replaced the temp gauge on the Suburban with a manual one with the fixed probe on the copper line for accuracy. I am going to do that with the 60.

It maybe be time for some stylish hood louvers. Jeep XJ guys have this same problem. Seems to be a station wagon flaw.
 
YotaJosh said:
That dash gauge sucks, and is a headache for many 60 owners. Mine will creep toward hot when I'm running down the interstate with the RPM's up. I hooked up my scanner to see what the ECM was reading when the gauge was near H and it was 205ish, but the sending units are in different places. I have a new AutoMeter temp gauge coming to replace the ching-chong Autozone one that has been broken forever, so I can keep a better eye on my temps.

My cooling did improve after I put a new radiator in, but it still creeps up past normal from time to time. I also removed the under hood liner to help shed some heat quicker.
Click to expand...

You running a aluminum radiator with the V8? I had to go to an aluminum radiator when I put the V8 in the 40...

It would stay cool idling... And get hot at highway speeds...
 
No, just a new copper one from Cool Cruisers. My original one was leaking and pretty gunked up inside.
 
I removed the AC condenser and hosed down the radiator. Still heats up after running around at higher speeds. It takes at least 20 minutes before it starts to get a little hotter and the. It bubbles some coolant out the radiator cap. One thing I noticed is that the cooling system stays pressurized even after sitting for a few days. I may take out the thermostat and test it to see if that is the issue.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1428402112.033859.webp
 
You said the cap is new. What brand is it? I've only had good luck with Toyota ones. The cheapos from local places were so-so.
 
The Stant I had did the pressure-days-later thing too. I don't think their tolerances are as good.

Have you done a leak down test to check for a blown head gasket?
 
I have not done a leak down test. I did pick up a Toyota cap from a dealer to see if that helps. I also picked up a Toyota water pump belt as I have a squeal at high RPM that I believe is coming from the belt.
 
I don't have a leak down tester anyway.
 
Replaced the old sealed beams with stock JK housings and Lifetime LED bulbs. I like the HID bulbs that I have in my JK better but these were used and a good price. I just bought some H13 sockets at O'Reilly's and replace the old corroded H4 sockets.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430364393.468376.webp
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430364406.204297.webp
 
The old sealed beams were Kioto brand so they may have been the originals. Now I can see.
 
nice job Tony...much better than stock by the looks of it...
 
YotaJosh said:
Very nice. I want to do the same, but I just haven't sat down and figured out the best plan.

So, basically this was your parts list?

http://www.extremeterrain.com/lifetime-led-h13-headlight-bulbs-lllh13.html

http://www.amazon.com/TEMPERATURE-C...bs_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=04PFN6M7S90YHD80C1Q8

http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Wrangler-Replacement-Headlight-Assembly/dp/B0024NSMOM
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I have another set of JK housings with the stock halogen bulbs. You can use the halogen bulbs but they are not very impressive. I haven't paid the guy for them yet it I plan on making a deal with him for both sets. I can sell them to you if the price is right.

Yes, those are the LED bulbs. I actually like the HID set I have in my JK better. They can be found here XenonPro.com. They are about the same price for the HID kit compared to the Lifetime kit.

I found this H13 socket at O'Reilly's http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-84785-...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00A0FT312

Here is a pic of where the wires would go in comparison to the OEM socket.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430402950.825814.webp
 
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