Silver Surfer

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Joined
Apr 9, 2014
Threads
19
Messages
675
So yeah. These leaf spring pins/bushings are awesome. I ended up having to cut the threaded end off of the pin and the flare plate off the other side. Then I pried the spring out. Now I have to drill out the bushing and clean the spring eye. Then I get to do the other side before I do the rear springs.
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It's cold out and the bushing laughed at my attempts to melt it out with a propane torch. Even after I got the spring off it still wouldn't melt that bushing.
 
Well, that sucks. I've never had that much trouble, and I've dealt with some tough ones.

I did use a hole saw once that fit inside the ID of the spring eye. Took the pilot bit out and carved out the old rubber with the hole saw.
 
Front springs should be here today but no word on bushings, pins, and shackles.
 
Springs arrived. I talked to the guy that I ordered the shackles and pins from and he said he would ship those out but he doesn't have the bushings. He said he would have dropped shipped to me. So I won't get it together before I leave for KOH. That leaves me ten days to get ready for Battlefest.
 
You gonna wheel the Surfer at Battlefest? I may try to make that.
That is the plan. I am going to run my 33" tires and take the winch off of the front for the race to lighten the font a bit. I am also going to cut the shifter bracket so I can switch between 2lo and 4lo for the tight turns.
 
I need some engine cooling advice on my 2F. I can drive around town and to and from work without issue. Today I decided I would drive it to Little Rock, about 40 miles away. It was fine for about the first 25 miles but when I came to my first stop, the temp gauge went to over heat then came down right away. The temp gauge stayed up in the upper most quadrant the rest of the ride. When I got to my destination, it relieved itself into the overflow tank but didn't fill the tank. It just filled it about 3/4 of the way. The cap is new and I have bypassed the rear seat heater as the lines were blown. I have flushed it about a dozen times until it was clear.

What has not been replaced is the thermostat, fan clutch, or water pump. There is no water in the oil. There appears to be no leaks anywhere.

I am thinking of replacing the thermostat first and see where that goes.

Any other opinions?
 
What about that control valve for the heater? Should I worry about that? The temperature control will not move all the way over to hot when the cable is connected.
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I have not replaced the radiator either. Didn't have any leaks when I was flushing it so I left it in place.
 
After waiting 15 minutes I started the motor and the temp was at the middle of the gauge and is holding steady.
 
This makes me think the thermostat is fine if it can idle all day nice and cool.
 
I might remove the grill and AC condenser and see if there is any blockage. I don't plan on fixing the AC anytime soon anyway.
 
I had the same problem with my 60. Never figured it out. Sold it 4yrs ago and the guy that bought it still drives...:meh:

As far as the heater goes, I cut the hose on the firewall and installed a manual shutoff. You will have to get the OEM valve in the hot position or remove it all together.

Redneck....yes
Worked......yes
 
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