Signal flasher

[Tireguy87]

I'm having blinker issues on my 67' 40. I've got a thread going in the 40 section (blinkers suddenly quit me). This came on so suddenly without me doing any electrical work to cause it that I'm wondering if my flasher is out. Apparently this is a hard part to come by. Mine is a round silver one mounted to the interior firewall.

Anyone have one of these or know of a place to find one. I'd like to replace it so that I can see if that is what is causing my problems.

 

[Living in the Past]

Need a little more info. Most the time I've seen a flasher fail the lights just stay on. But it could be they don't light at all. What is your doing? To check you could probably pick up a cheap flasher at any auto store. Guessing the wattage for the front and rear plus the dash light is just over 50 watts. 25 front and rear and a couple for the dash. A couple stake on connectors with a small piece of wire attached that is pushed into the stock connector will let you check without messing with the wiring. If that fixes them track down the correct flasher. If that doesn't work you are only a little cash and can keep that set up as a emergency repair. Or just buy a couple of spade connectors and make adapter to the flasher and the factory wiring. Well over thirty years ago I made the mistake of cutting the wires on my 68 and just used a couple stake ons. But like most things I'm sure I kept the old plug and flasher.

 

[Tireguy87]

Mine don't light at all. I ran a hot wire to each light to verify they work and they all do. I also ran that same hot wire to the power wire coming from my switch and tested and each side will burn solid but the dash indicators won't work. I put a multimeter on the power wire coming in to the switch and it reads nothing.

Weird thing is these things worked one day and the next they were out. Fuses are all good

 

[Living in the Past]

Fuses are all good

Fuses may be good but fuse holder may not. Since you can start you cruiser the ignition switch is okay. That feeds the fuses for the things that work only when the switch is on. With the switch on and no power to the turn signal switch the problem is in the fuse block or the wire going from the fuse block to the switch.

 

[Tireguy87]

Makes sense to me. Could rusty connections between the fuses and the block itself be causing this? There is some surface rust on the fuse ends and metal clips on the holder.

 

[Tireguy87]

Ok here's my findings for tonight. I pulled the whole fuse panel. I cleaned all the little terminals and wires that go to it. Also cleaned the ends of all the fuses with steel wool. Reassembled everything and still nothing. Turned the key off and checked all my connections and signal flasher to make sure it was all plugged up. Everything looked good so I didn't touch anything. Turned the key back on and the signal flasher clicked and I had blinkers....but now no headlights. Turned the key back off then back on now nothing. Pulled the ignition switch to check connections. Found a "made in USA" stamp on it. So obviously not stock.

Could this whole issue be in my ignition switch? I've got 12v at every wire/fuse plugged into my fuse block.

 

[67azcruizr]

Check your bulb with a 9 volt battery, if ok meter the light socket, probably a bad ground or the j-block on the fender

 

[Living in the Past]

Could this whole issue be in my ignition switch? I've got 12v at every wire/fuse plugged into my fuse block.

No the whole problem is probably in your fuse block. The head lights, brake lights and horn do not wire thru the ignition swtich they work all the times. If you have the optional hazard flashers it doesn't either. They all work without the key being turned on. How rusty is it the fuse block? I would try and find another one. Or you can sand or file off all the rust. Try soldering any rivets. Make sure you also sand the connectors on the ends of the wires. May even replace them if they look bad where they pitch the wires. Then pitch the fuse holders so the fuses snap in. But that is after you sand the ends of the fuses. I know my 68 has the fuse block located where if the drain for the cowl leaks it gets wets. I would check that to prevent future problems.

 

[Tireguy87]

Well it wasn't in too bad of shape when I pulled it. But I'm thinking since my headlights don't work now it probably is the fuse block because they worked before I pulled the block. I may pull it again and try cleaning it up some more. It's definitely not rough enough to replace in my opinion. Most of the original cadmium plating is still there.

 

[Tireguy87]

Finally had success tonight. It was all in the fuse block/fuses. I cleaned that block extensively, replaced all fuses with the right size since the PO stuck whatever was on hand in the clips. Turned the key on signal flasher clicked and I had blinkers. Headlights are also back to working. Talk about a huge pain in the neck that turned out to be a simple issue.

 

[pardion]

Congratulations, you stuck with it and fixed the problem. This practice session will be good for you as owning an older rig, you will find out lights and contacts do corrode and need cleaning and antioxidant from time to time. I do have that stock flasher and holder that you don't need any more. Keep plugging along, John

 

[Tireguy87]

On a side note, is it not true that you can put a bigger fuse in place of a spot that calls for a smaller one? Like a 30 amp in a 15 amp spot?