Side by side 80 and 100 pads

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e9999,

Nope. Air compresses, brake fluid doesn't (at these pressures).

Charlie
 
Although, I feel like I should be more suspicious of things like caliper slides for uneven wear, I did not notice any binding.

Even if it is not the specific cause, a good brake bleed can't hurt anything anyway (unless I spill it on the paint :rolleyes: ).

Can't wait for more good weather to do the major service items (birfs and 80 rotors and 100 pads) I want to accomplish. At least my brakes stop better for now.

Charlie
 
NorCalDoug said:
The 100 series pads are substantially thicker than the 80 series pads. I was able to get all 3 of the 4 pads installed fairly easily -- the PS inside pad wanted to fight with me...I won eventually.

Weird, I had a hard time with the exact same pad when I put on new rotors and the 100 series pads.

So much so, in fact, that I actually had to re-loosen the brake caliper (I say "re"-loosen because I just had it off to swap the rotors), push the entire caliper towards the center of the vehicle, put the pad in, then re-tighten the caliper. Carefully drove around the neighborhood for a little bit, braking several times, then re-checking the caliper mounting bolts in my driveway.
 
CharlieS said:
e9999,

Nope. Air compresses, brake fluid doesn't (at these pressures).

Charlie



Yes air compresses liquids do not but air still keeps the same pressure as the rest of the fluid around it, all it does is soak up volume as it compresses. Emergency brakes on older A/C like the B727 is a bottle of compressed nitrogen gas, stops just fine.

I am all for bleeding the system, get any water or air out, they don’t belong. I would not be surprised if you find the fluid rusty; the calipers may need to be rebuilt.
 
CharlieS said:
e9999,

Nope. Air compresses, brake fluid doesn't (at these pressures).

Charlie

true, but if you have air and liquid in the same system, they'll be at the same pressure if at equilibrium and same height.
 
Okay.

Sounds like you have a solid handle on the engineering or physics or something. You definitely know more about it than I do.

Charlie
 
Charlie,

What typically happens is a ring of grundge (technical term) forms on the brake piston at the tight rubber seal it slides in and out of. Over time this hardens and the piston can't retract fully after each application. Then, one piston is starting closer to the rotor on each brake application and for light applications of the brakes only part of the pad touches and wears. Over time you get a sloped pad. Over more time the ring gets wider and the piston is extended further.

Water or air and old fluid help this happen as do old seals.

The cure is a $22 rebuild kit from Cdan that gives you a complete set of seals for both calipers on one axle. Takes a couple hours to do cause it's kinda fiddley getting the new seals in. Helps if you have access to air and/or someone who's done this before. I did it without air and it was just a bit of a pain but no particular skills are required. It's covered in the factory manual, but ignore their instructions for making a wooden device to help get the pistons out. Someone was smokin' wasabi crack when they wrote the dimensions in my 93 manual as the wood thing didn't fit at all.

DougM
 
Thanks Doug.

I do have a compressor and have rebuilt many a caliper. I built and maintained my own rally car back when I raced, and went through several brake upgrades over the course of several seasons. I ended up rebuilding more than one caliper...

I'll add caliper rebuilds to my list of to-do items when I do the big fluid baseline/birf/rotor/pad job later this Spring. Sounds like I'll have a weekend full of fun when I get around to it.

Charlie
 
Excellent - sounds like you'll be able to slap in a kit with ease. PM me when you are ready and/or if you get in a bind.

So if you rallied you probably remember the monster Audi Group B cars? Some time I'll have to tell you around a campfire about borrowing John Buffum's teammate's race car and driving it around the streets of Detroit for a day/evening. Holey crap! What was her name - French lady. Rene'? Ah - Michelle Mouton's car.

Later,
DougM
 
Doug,

Cool. I was well after the group B days. The Group B Quattro was a beast, I have some incredible video footage. Also the Lancia. 600 + horsepower - amazing stuff - you should see how fast their hands and feet had to fly to manage the cars (in the in car video). They said that the cars were so fast, the only way to drive them was to react BEFORE something happened. Wow.

Buffum has his shop in Colchester, VT just a couple of towns over from where I work. Strangely VT is a sort of producer of rally drivers - some good Like Buffum and his son in law Paul Choiniere - and some not so good, like me and my friends. We also had the VW factory team cars of the 80's built in the area (Rallysport notheast) and recently Prodrive had their US Subaru team run out of Colchester (Vermont Sportscar).

I, unfortunately, could only afford to race a VW GTI, but I had fun the whole way. I built it, maintained it, and raced it. Good fun.

I've yet to experience the same rush as barreling down a remote forest stage at 80-90-100 mph on loose gravel. It was a major rush.

I can't imagine doing the same thing at twice the speed (like the Group B cars or even some of the modern prodrive subaru wrx or mitsubishi evo factory cars).

Thanks for the great info. The 80 is a fun new adventure.

Charlie
 

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