Sick of searching: Alternator rebuild kit 85 22RE (1 Viewer)

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I thought this would be easy but no luck. Who's rebuilt their 22R / RE alternator and where did you get the parts? Sure I can get them from Mr. Toyoda but $$$$ or go the easy route with a reman from NAPA... Can anyone point me to a rebuild kit? Thanks!
 
I just did a quick search for rebuild kits and got plenty of hits. I have no idea of the quality of the parts. Luna on Grant Rd in Tucson does a great job and have fair prices. Not sure if they sell parts. Worth a call.

To add, I have replaced bearings and brushes in the past. Never a full "rebuild". Bought the parts at the local parts store. Merle's I think.
 
OK, where did you find them? I mean specifically for the Nippondenso alt with the round 3-wire connector, bearings, brushes, diode. Lots on eBay but they're for later alts.
 
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I was always lucky to get away with replacing the bearing and brushes. I never had a bad rotor/slip rings or damaged case, plug or windings. If I did, I would have gotten a reman.

Good luck, I hope you find what you need.
 
Thanks!
 
If none of those work out. Let me know I will dig in my old orders, but I rebuilt mine, But i didn't order them as a kit, just ordered individual parts like bearings by koyo part numbers etc. I might have that stuff documented some place, but I won't go digging for it, if you don't need it.
 
I thought this would be easy but no luck. Who's rebuilt their 22R / RE alternator and where did you get the parts? Sure I can get them from Mr. Toyoda but $$$$ or go the easy route with a reman from NAPA... Can anyone point me to a rebuild kit? Thanks!


if you gave some more details like photos and such maybe a OEM TOYOTA part # or the aftermarket one ?

there would suddenly be way way more options on the table for you here

simply a 85 22R / RE is very confusing since a E takes a different
NipponDenso then A plain R ...


do what must be done here , and report back all the required
TECH ..




THIS IS THE WAY ...
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+


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Patch had a plain R and while I never had a problem directly with the alt., I could not get a decent lifespan out of the separate regulator. My dealer told me they were NLA. Maybe they were right and maybe they were lazy (there is some considerable evidence of the latter from other matters). I went thru 3 or 4 regulators from various parts stores before I gave up and made the pivot bracket and tensioning bracket that fit a Delco CS130 in there. Cut the pigtail off one of the failed regulators so that my wiring mod unplugged from the engine bay harness.

EDIT: Found pics of the brackets nearly finished in case anyone cares. I'd always hated that the PS and the A/C had tension adjusters, but the Alt didn't. So my bracket had one. Made adjusting the belts a LOT easier.
i-k56nFNd-L.jpg


i-nrTwNDr-L.jpg
 
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to be very frank here , were not talking about a 22R / 22RE original factory installed alternator anymore


do the math , 1983-2023 = 40 long years ....


does it seam logical that takinng all the time to REMOVE , and then try to cheat fate and remove a sized pulley on shaft lets just say 75 % of the time after 40 years


so u get lucky here ......

the shaft them travels thu the front end frame bearing inner roller , you WILL need a hydraulic press and a special JIG to press the 2 a part i can tell you JACK 100% YES


finally , the Tree M6 long 4" #2 JIS phillips screws are carbon steel ,. the rear frame is cast aluminum this = 3 stripped Philips heads ...

- ok what is plan B now


hummmmmmmmmmm ?


oh use your 40+$ yellow and blue ACE IRWIN vice grips and heat each screw with a map gass torch cherry red and eack it out 1/4 turn at time ....



so , ok you got that

the 3 screws are destroyed ?


what next ?


i can tell you straight up the North American Destination market has ZERO on hand m and class F part too

no more coming it from japan


i know this because i get my former T-TEN class mate who works at PLANO TX head quarters to tell me when certain part # first 5 digits are getting axed soon , so can grab what's left if its a NEEDED part in the Vintage Land cruiser community

- YES these are ....

- YES they were ....

- would i help any one here with 3 need NOS UNICORN screws ?

- sure i would , but that's my point here , trying to band aid a 40+ year old crusty alternator WILL become a HUGE pain in the azz and then whaT ?



i WILL NEVER purchase a part like a starter or alternator there and hope i get home on a rainly dark cold night NO WAY ...


this is real world facts you need to hear ,.,,,,

and
below is the entire global inventory of those , and it ain't much either ,.....:confused:



matt






 
Building that lower CS130 pivot bracket wasn't simple either. I wanted it to bolt in like OEM using the OEM bolts. That took some figuring. If I was going to make them for sale I'd either investment cast them or possibly print them as I bet that I had close to 30 hours in building that one

My method for steel bolts/screws stuck in an aluminum housing is to gently heat the housing and spray one or both ends of the fastener with PB Blaster. Leave it sitting in a way that pools the juice around the threads, and then let it sit for a while. Try to gently loosen the fastener. If it moves at all reverse direction until it won't move any more. Keep going back and forth adding PB Blaster as seems needed. Once you can get it to wiggle you're almost there.
 

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