Siamese F exhaust valve question

[Heirloom]

My cylinder head is at a machine shop right now. It is from a 1966 siamese-port F engine.

The question I have is about exhaust valves. All of my searching has resulted in finding only used exhaust valves for sale. I already have used exhaust valves. The machinist says that removing material from the old exhaust valves (re-grinding) will be less durable/reliable than new valves (due to heat-soak). He says they will be at increased risk of burning a valve... again.

His research also cannot find new valves for that motor. The machinist's solution is to use a new valve designed for a different vehicle (he found one for a Ford Pinto) that are very close and modify the valve guides and keeper grooves to fit in the cylinder head.

Who has experience with this? Should I have the machinist regrind the old valves? Should I pay the extra money for the custom new valves? Save my money and buy a diesel? As of now, the engine is original and I have the ability to keep my rebuild pretty close to a restoration. Keeping that in mind, I have intentions of having a reliable driver when all is done. If you have a solution I haven't thought of, I'm all ears.

Thanks.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

This is done all the time with 2F and 3FE engines. Chevy V8 valves are just a little bigger than the Toyota stuff. So the OEM Toyota valve guides get machined to fit the Chevy valve stems. Regrind the OEM valve seats to fit the larger Chevy valve to get good seats. Install valve seals from some Ford product that fits the Toyota guide and Chevy valve stem. Chevy valve springs/locks/keepers shimmed to the proper seat pressure and the job is done (for a 2F/3FE: not sure on the early F). A cheaper slightly higher performance way to do a quality valve job on a Toyota head.

If your machinist can find valves that are close to the Toyota stuff in size to make it work I would go with it. Sounds like you found a decent machinist to work with.

Good luck with your project.

Nick

 

[Heirloom]

Thanks. The machinist came highly recommended by a local LC shop. I expect to get what I pay for, since he is not the cheap guy in town.

Are you saying that new valves will be drastically superior to re-surfaced old valves? I am not expecting big performance out of this old engine with a 1bbl, but I do want a reliable and durable engine. Money is tight right now, but I'd definitely prefer to only do the work once.

What are going rates for a head rebuild now-a-days, for comparison? I am OK spending the money, but don't want to get hosed. I have been quoted for:

Dissassemble + clean + inspect
new exhaust valves + customizing the keeper grooves to fit (6)
ream/hone guides and install bronze guide liners (12)
new hardened seats + surfacing (12)
New seals (12)
He said my intake valves were nice enough (and big enough) to resurface (6)
Water passage pressure testing (to 55 PSI)

I don't know if he is replacing the springs/keepers/spring perches with new. I will ask. He did mention setting the spring perch pressure back to factory spec.

He did not itemize the prices, just gave me an overall quote. $600

 

[zebrabeefj40]

When I had a 3FE head done with new Chevy stainless valves, new chevy springs, keepers and locks; ream existing guides to fit new valves, recut existing seats and reassemble. $350. I did not need new hardened seats which is where I'd guess the extra $250 is in your quote. Overall I'd say you are getting a fair deal.

As far as notable performance increase? Not really. The Chevy valves were a little more efficient than the Toyota stuff. The real reason to do the job this way is to save a little cash by using more common components. Most shops have Chevy stuff on the shelf along with the tools to install it. Nobody has Cruiser stuff so it has to be ordered in special with a special price tag. It also saves the step of driving out the old guides and installing new ones (with the potential for leaks down the road - no issues with your bronze liners though).

Nick