Shocks Replacement

[JamesInLV]

Just ordered them a couple days ago. No shipping confirmation from the seller yet, and haven't received them. I put off my appointment with the mechanic for a 30k service, probably new rotors/pads, and to have these installed until later next week. I'll let you know as soon as I have them and get them in there. A couple questions...

1) How many hours should experienced mechanics take to install these? (my local shop specializes in SUVs and trucks)

2) Since almost day 1, the nose seems to be slightly lower than the rear of my Landcruiser. When I put in the third row seats or have extra weight in the rear, it seems level and balanced. I was told by my dealership that this was normal for a '99 LC, and that there is a height adjustment on the front that would raise the front about 1" or 1.5", but that was not advisable unless you did a lot of off-roading. I've mentioned the front end height to two dealerships, and both said there were no problems. Anybody confirm?

 

[spressomon]

Just ordered them a couple days ago. No shipping confirmation from the seller yet, and haven't received them. I put off my appointment with the mechanic for a 30k service, probably new rotors/pads, and to have these installed until later next week. I'll let you know as soon as I have them and get them in there. A couple questions...

1) How many hours should experienced mechanics take to install these? (my local shop specializes in SUVs and trucks)

2) Since almost day 1, the nose seems to be slightly lower than the rear of my Landcruiser. When I put in the third row seats or have extra weight in the rear, it seems level and balanced. I was told by my dealership that this was normal for a '99 LC, and that there is a height adjustment on the front that would raise the front about 1" or 1.5", but that was not advisable unless you did a lot of off-roading. I've mentioned the front end height to two dealerships, and both said there were no problems. Anybody confirm?

The LC was designed to have about a 1" rake to the front. You can adjust the t-bars (need to have the front wheels in the air with jackstands)...you get about 1/8" lift per each full rotation of the t-bar adjuster. It's easy enough to adjust...and if you don't like it then easy to return. You want at least 60mm droop in the front when you're done (measure from the ground to a consisent spot on the fender lip with the rig on the ground...then lift just until you are at the point of the suspension being unweighted then do the same measure again...this should not be less than 60mm.

 

[NMuzj100]

Ride height and adjustments are discussed pretty well in this thread ....

Landcruiser Leans/Sags and front ride height

 

[JamesInLV]

spressomon...I haven't taken the LC up yet, but I get the impression that it would rise a LOT more than 60mm before the suspension is unweighted. Heck, I'm pretty sure my BMW M5 goes up more than 60mm or more before it goes unweighted. If I understand correctly, "droop" is the difference between the unweighted height and the weighted height of a given spot in the front (as you mentioned a point on the front fender lip, for example). Is that correct? Considering the pending roadtrip, I'll probably hold off just to keep the car more balanced when all that luggage is in the rear, but something I'm sure to tackle even for 1/2" after the Bilsteins are installed, and then after the trip.

Do these springs pretty much last forever, so that I don't have to worry about that being a contributing factor? I don't think it's changed since I got the car at about 20 months old, but just asking.

 

[dclee]

You be sure to explain that to the guys that have them when the accumulators go bad and have to be replaced/rebuilt. It's great that you don't have to replace the actual shock, but considering rebuilt accumulators run $1500 for four, I would rather replace shocks on a non AHC model.

Concur. Once the nitrogen accumulators went bad on the rear Self-Leveling Suspension of a Mercedes sedan I used to own, the replacement cost caused me to rip out the whole system, bolt on a block-off plate where the pump used to mount, and replace with standard coils and Bilstein shocks. Much better ride and handling, and I did not miss the SLS feature at all.

But yes, by replenishing seals and oil, conceivably the "shocks" themselves could have lasted forever.

 

[spressomon]

spressomon...I haven't taken the LC up yet, but I get the impression that it would rise a LOT more than 60mm before the suspension is unweighted. If I understand correctly, "droop" is the difference between the unweighted height and the weighted height of a given spot in the front (as you mentioned a point on the front fender lip, for example). Is that correct?

Yes. At approximately 2.5-2.75" of front lift on the 100 you start compromising the down travel/droop.


[/QUOTE] Do these springs pretty much last forever, so that I don't have to worry about that being a contributing factor? I don't think it's changed since I got the car at about 20 months old, but just asking.[/QUOTE]

Well...nothing lasts forever......but assuming you don't make a habit of bottoming the springs out then they should last you along time.

 

[dnp]

How he could say that with a straight face is beyond me. It's like saying a Kia is better than a Toyota. KYB's have not been the best shocks over the years, basically the equivalent of a Monroe.

I had a Bilstein rep tell me that, in many instances, the KYB's were as good as the Bilsteins........I've used both kinds before, and I definitely like the characteristics of the Bilsteins better, but that's actually what the rep told me (that was in about 1985 - something may have been different then?)

 

[Augie]

Old KYB gas-a-just are pretty good mono tube shock but they are not available for newer cars and trucks. The KYB GR2 are twin tube low pressure design and they are not that good (I know since I am using it right now).

They do have a monotube variant called MonoMax but not for LC100 series. The MonoMax are very rough riding IMHO (that is based on first hand experience on different vehicle) since they also boosted the compression damping. Might be good with overloaded vehicle.

Bilstein or Koni are still the best IMHO.

 

[JamesInLV]

Bilsteins on, love them but a problem...

Overall ride quality is greatly improved. The sagging that the car had in turns that seemed normal by now is almost completely gone. While I'm not sure (don't have a good point of reference) they're worth the extra money compared to stock, knowing that they should last or outlast my ownership of the vehicle is great. Only cost 2 hours of labor for the install ($180) but probably took 3 or 4. They had a heck of a time getting the right rear shock out. Bolts were frozen good, but eventually "they won."

Unfortunately, it looks like there is a problem with the front right. Whenever I hit a sharp dip or a speed bump that compresses the shock enough, I get a loud clunk that sounds like something wasn't tightened property. Anybody have an idea what that could be? I was swamped all day today and tomorrow, but I'll bring it by on Wednesday to have them look for the problem and fix it. Checked all the lug nuts just to eliminate the simple and they're okay.

 

[cary]

If you do a search here, there was another person that had the same problem. I believe it was a shock that wasn't torqued down tight enough.

 

[HDJ100L]

When does a 2000 LC need its shocks changed? I realize it greatly depends on driving conditions, etc, but think it might be time for me. Seems to ride a little harsh on rough surfaces. Thinking Bilsteins all around. Truck just hit 75K. Any thoughts?

Generally, we replace shocks to our vehicle when the shocks already worn out. it doesn't matter how many miles you use the car. unless you just want to replace the shocks with no reason. peace!