Builds Shipwreck (31 Viewers)

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srgould41 said:
Will the cup holder hold a Starbucks coffee? How about a disposable water bottle? Those were my personal requirements.

Love the radio. I had looked for one like that originally. I want AM/FM, USB for an iPOD, CB, and stereo speaker outputs. I need to check that out. a CD player will be toast in no time. No need for one.
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mine fits the bottles and coffee cups that I use...

I like the TYT, I'd spent some time polling the people I know with HAM radios and couldn't find anyone with anything bad to say (other then the general hate on Chinese radios). That said, I think I'm going to keep all the radios (more because the CD player is already installed and will be a PITA to get out - and the HAM radio doesn't really fit in that slot).

That bites about the spring issue.... you know, while you're at it, we could build a 4-link triangulated rear for your '40 :) or a truck-arm rear suspension.

I was looking at those really-cheap cig-lighter-fm-transmitter-usb players.... talk about simple solution... that or go full monte and do the motorcycle system....
 
4-Link... Um, no. I used to shear the front bolts often. Drilled the holes to the next size up and never had a problem since. I have broken rears too I think. I think it's time to upsize the holes. It looked like the U-Bolts may have come loose too. That would have led to sheared center bolts.

A bluetooth transmitter is a great idea. Being nearly deaf I don't bother with the radio while driving. Can't hear it. I used my ipod in the past with great success with a single earbud. Don't want to get pulled over for it. A bluetooth earpiece might be more legalish...

SuperBuickGuy said:
That bites about the spring issue.... you know, while you're at it, we could build a 4-link triangulated rear for your '40 :) or a truck-arm rear suspension.

I was looking at those really-cheap cig-lighter-fm-transmitter-usb players.... talk about simple solution... that or go full monte and do the motorcycle system....
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I wish I could get the CB to at least work through the stereo speakers (CB 3.5mm speaker output to stereo 3.5mm sound cable input). I would like to remove the extra powered CB speaker. I just could not solve the feedback when using the stereo as the output. Someone suggested using a choke on the sound cable. I have not tried that yet.
 
Excitement today
rather then do anything fun, I got to find a short


not there
nor in here


how do I get a 50% step-down voltage to the pump relay?


in the end, I have no idea - it runs again. I'll spend some quality time on rewrapping the wires...


though with that said, I got to meet another cool neighbor that will join us on our next wheeling adventures...
 
Is your system wired with the stock TBI system that incorporates the oil pressure with the fuel pump? If so, is the sender a switch or potentiometer style?

5338d1364873955-92-suburban-5-7-ltr-fuel-issue-fuelsystem.jpg
 
nope - that's not a bad thought. Had I had an oil pressure switch, I'd not have had to replace the motor...

the issue is something to do with the connection at the firewall.... I relaxed the pump connection and all seems well - so that's going to be my focus. I utterly hate when I don't know what I did to fix something - mostly because if I don't find it, it will break at even a worse moment - though, again, had I not broke at that space and place; I'd not have made a new, wheeling friend...
 
It will be a few weeks for me. House projects, family reunion and work are taking up the next few weeks. Need to make repairs once all that other stuff is out of the way.
 
I think there's another problem... they draw a minimum of 13 amps, and have a 20 amp fuse. The computer has a 15 amp fuse, so it would be within spec to draw more then the fuse is rated. It also shouldn't be drawing the main power through the computer. I think I can fix this by simply changing one wire from the painless wiring to a direct (with a fuse, of course) power.

I talked to Mike today about this and he wasn't convinced (except that it was all that was left) that the pump was bad - as he said, they never run if they need replacement. But agreed it was probably the problem. Rewiring is cheap, so I'm starting there... of course, I'm also going to buy another fuel pump for a spare (as I can't find my spares)....

except.... thinking this through.... it blew the 20 amp fuse too.... the other suggestion was the zip ties may have created an internal short of they're too tight....

ah the fun of fixing this
 
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I would try bypassing the harness you built first and tackle things independently- do a quick wiring of a direct 20a fuse from battery to fuel pump and see if it blows again....

Then it would tell you. ... if it blows, it's fuel pump... if not its wiring/computer
 
first thing I did. I've isolated to where I know where the issue is - it's just not a simple look anymore.... there is something wrong inside the Howell EFI loom - how it happened, I dunno yet, but the issue is there - where it goes through the firewall.... which is about the worst place for it to be since there's no easy access to that area.... and why I spent a lot of time earlier making sure I wouldn't have to fix there.... the next step is de-shrouding the loom then testing individual wires. I hate wiring.
 
How about just adding new wires as needed and leave the old ones in place? I had to create some new places to run my wires through when I ran out of room at the main harness through hole. Not ideal by any means, but a whole lot less work when access is limited.


SuperBuickGuy said:
first thing I did. I've isolated to where I know where the issue is - it's just not a simple look anymore.... there is something wrong inside the Howell EFI loom - how it happened, I dunno yet, but the issue is there - where it goes through the firewall.... which is about the worst place for it to be since there's no easy access to that area.... and why I spent a lot of time earlier making sure I wouldn't have to fix there.... the next step is de-shrouding the loom then testing individual wires. I hate wiring.
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