- Thread starter
- #1,681
dammit, I drove it to work again without killing myself or others.
Builds Shipwreck
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
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- Thread starter
- #1,682
almost there with the light
- Thread starter
- #1,683
It's official - I bought my off-road pass (required here in Washington for any of the fun places outside of Liberty)... hopefully nothing breaks because I have a full calendar of wheeling for August.
- Thread starter
- #1,684
So today was the day
Steve lead the way
if you look closely, I'm missing a bolt on the skid plate
pretty flowers, no?
this was fun
as was this
this might be were this major damage happened
more flex
it was a blast everyone made it home safely, and there is a list of fixits (next post)
Steve lead the way
if you look closely, I'm missing a bolt on the skid plate
pretty flowers, no?
this was fun
as was this
this might be were this major damage happened
more flex
it was a blast everyone made it home safely, and there is a list of fixits (next post)
- Thread starter
- #1,685
So I drove 200 miles today and got 8 mpg, of course, that may change a bit once I do one of the fixits. So here's the list:
I publish this so the trolls can carry on their trolling, but more importantly for the folks who garage build and who the trolls and tv shows bring down. It's an honest list and meant to help others see that it's just part of the build process. Don't anyone get the thought that I didn't have a blast today - I did, this build was totally worth it.
Steering set screw - there are two, I ground one down...
Steering stop nut, I can get more turning radius by turning it in a bit
Not yet fixed
fuel smell - we found the reason - the top of the tank is leaking (which might explain some of the poor mpg - beside the 38.5 bias ply tires, 4.56 gears and brick aero)
Fuel level sender (again) 3/8 is empty.... need to solve that - but since I've got to take the seat out again... no biggie
fuel pump is annoying - I may fix this in my typical manner of build a new tank and put the pump in tank.... because, the easy way is for smart folks and Pirate knows, I'm not smart.
driver's side exhaust leak - annoying but needs fixed (I think I missed a hole header - not a gasket)
reset the driveshaft so it is straight. This one a pro got me - I set the shaft as Tom Woods suggested, he said I needed a degree in it to reduce vibration... uh, dumbme... I'll put it back (easy)
Water, cup holders .... yeah, get over it, shifting and wheeling makes carrying your coffee between your legs a perilous adventure.. and no, I didn't bring water or food today... I need to make food and water permanent in the vehicle so I don't do this again (thank you Regis for bring food)
this is a big one, cooler for the power steering pump. driving normally, it works fine, but it was not happy turning the spartan locker front. I'd like to add a steering ram (and will) but that's later - for now I may simply add a stabilizer so that I don't have death at speed-bump speed wobble until I get the funds.
a caliper is loose and rattling
seat belts are junk - I'm going to replace them with 4 point harnesses.
stupid dana 300s, I didn't put the spring in and am regretting it. 4 wd pops out to 2 wd, I should have put the spring in. This I won't fix until much later, but it's an issue. I need to redo the shift levers because they are also problematic - at one point I had front-only drive which, as far as I know, is utterly impossible.... leave it to me to find a way to make that happen (not twice though)
4 hi/N/4 low... I don't like the levers, I may (gasp) put a stepper motor on it so that it mechanically holds it in gear..... it also doesn't like to go easily between the gears.
clutch, yeah again, as the day progressed so did the level of force required to use the clutch. I think I'll add more heim joints to the system...
skid plate rattle - this could be as simple as a rock on the skid plate.... but there it is.
Add to this the stuff that happened before (oil pump, almost burned to the ground, and the various getting stuff working senders..) and you'll have a complete idea of what it has taken to make it road worthy.
With all of that said, I was blowing along at 80 mph on a rutty freeway and it felt stable. It does tend to corner steer (when you turn a corner the rear helps in the turning process as the body leans - which can be a bit disconcerting to get used to).... that said, once the fuel smell is fixed - I'll drive it anywhere...
I publish this so the trolls can carry on their trolling, but more importantly for the folks who garage build and who the trolls and tv shows bring down. It's an honest list and meant to help others see that it's just part of the build process. Don't anyone get the thought that I didn't have a blast today - I did, this build was totally worth it.
Steering set screw - there are two, I ground one down...
Steering stop nut, I can get more turning radius by turning it in a bit
Not yet fixed
fuel smell - we found the reason - the top of the tank is leaking (which might explain some of the poor mpg - beside the 38.5 bias ply tires, 4.56 gears and brick aero)
Fuel level sender (again) 3/8 is empty.... need to solve that - but since I've got to take the seat out again... no biggie
fuel pump is annoying - I may fix this in my typical manner of build a new tank and put the pump in tank.... because, the easy way is for smart folks and Pirate knows, I'm not smart.
driver's side exhaust leak - annoying but needs fixed (I think I missed a hole header - not a gasket)
reset the driveshaft so it is straight. This one a pro got me - I set the shaft as Tom Woods suggested, he said I needed a degree in it to reduce vibration... uh, dumbme... I'll put it back (easy)
Water, cup holders .... yeah, get over it, shifting and wheeling makes carrying your coffee between your legs a perilous adventure.. and no, I didn't bring water or food today... I need to make food and water permanent in the vehicle so I don't do this again (thank you Regis for bring food)
this is a big one, cooler for the power steering pump. driving normally, it works fine, but it was not happy turning the spartan locker front. I'd like to add a steering ram (and will) but that's later - for now I may simply add a stabilizer so that I don't have death at speed-bump speed wobble until I get the funds.
a caliper is loose and rattling
seat belts are junk - I'm going to replace them with 4 point harnesses.
stupid dana 300s, I didn't put the spring in and am regretting it. 4 wd pops out to 2 wd, I should have put the spring in. This I won't fix until much later, but it's an issue. I need to redo the shift levers because they are also problematic - at one point I had front-only drive which, as far as I know, is utterly impossible.... leave it to me to find a way to make that happen (not twice though)
4 hi/N/4 low... I don't like the levers, I may (gasp) put a stepper motor on it so that it mechanically holds it in gear..... it also doesn't like to go easily between the gears.
clutch, yeah again, as the day progressed so did the level of force required to use the clutch. I think I'll add more heim joints to the system...
skid plate rattle - this could be as simple as a rock on the skid plate.... but there it is.
Add to this the stuff that happened before (oil pump, almost burned to the ground, and the various getting stuff working senders..) and you'll have a complete idea of what it has taken to make it road worthy.
With all of that said, I was blowing along at 80 mph on a rutty freeway and it felt stable. It does tend to corner steer (when you turn a corner the rear helps in the turning process as the body leans - which can be a bit disconcerting to get used to).... that said, once the fuel smell is fixed - I'll drive it anywhere...
- Thread starter
- #1,686
Okay amigo.. I posted in this thread to correct some information and hopefully save you some money (and potentially stop someone else from making the same mistake later on). There were no backstabbing remarks or snide comments. Just corrections on misinformation.
I would like you to think about something tho. There are a bunch of people on here that know quite a bit about things. If you get all defensive when they try to help, then this thread will go down in flames and get moved to Chat. You are not getting paid for this, and I am not getting paid for this none of us are. It's all a bunch of people trying to help each other out. I obviously offend you in some way so I'll check out of the thread. Good luck with your build. I sincerely hope that it ends up being what you want. It's your build, have fun with it.
lol
- Thread starter
- #1,688
you have questions? why would you ask me?
consider this an "after the Build" series. In it, I revive posts from the past and do a "what I thought" vs. "what actually happened"
the first one being be careful listening to folks on the internet
consider this an "after the Build" series. In it, I revive posts from the past and do a "what I thought" vs. "what actually happened"
the first one being be careful listening to folks on the internet
- Thread starter
- #1,690
So that was just a "neener" post?
Are you 12?? Lol
I sincerely hope you get the little issues resolved and have fun with you build.
and come down to your level? why would I do that, I have a sweet '40 to drive.
- Thread starter
- #1,691
So to prevent further derailing, back to the point by going to the next one.
Engine choice.
When I bought the '40, it had a 6 cyl motor in it - I had 3 real choices, 1) use a 500 cadillac motor I had, 2) build a diesel, or 3) doing a very cheap re-ring on a a 350. In 20/20 hindsight, I should have followed the advice about buying an already-rebuilt motor (they said $1500), in the end, I paid $750 for a rebuilt core after the motor I built seized because of a faulty oil pump. It also had a crack that, even if the oil pump hadn't failed, would have required a new block... granted, I still made out okay because I had a core, I reused the heads, and I'd sold parts off the other core that more then paid for the detour; best of all, it gave me a chance to use the removeable cross brace I'd put in.
The end may not be on this one - the 350 is a decent motor, and it works fine but I have a 400 and may use it for another motor build.... only time will tell on this one, at this point, it runs very well and that is usually the biggest barrier to making a change.
Engine choice.
When I bought the '40, it had a 6 cyl motor in it - I had 3 real choices, 1) use a 500 cadillac motor I had, 2) build a diesel, or 3) doing a very cheap re-ring on a a 350. In 20/20 hindsight, I should have followed the advice about buying an already-rebuilt motor (they said $1500), in the end, I paid $750 for a rebuilt core after the motor I built seized because of a faulty oil pump. It also had a crack that, even if the oil pump hadn't failed, would have required a new block... granted, I still made out okay because I had a core, I reused the heads, and I'd sold parts off the other core that more then paid for the detour; best of all, it gave me a chance to use the removeable cross brace I'd put in.
The end may not be on this one - the 350 is a decent motor, and it works fine but I have a 400 and may use it for another motor build.... only time will tell on this one, at this point, it runs very well and that is usually the biggest barrier to making a change.
- Thread starter
- #1,692
more light brackets
96451
96451
- Thread starter
- #1,693
And with that. I'm done. thanks for the laughs.
jstncse
Crawling over something
It looks good. Congratulations on a solid build.
- Thread starter
- #1,695
thank you
bonus pictures
bonus pictures
chappohj47
Chappo Built
Love it mate looks awesome
Congrats on the build. The D300 can in fact be placed in front lo only and is a popular modification for rock crawling. Keep having fun.
- Thread starter
- #1,698
Yet I didn't modify it to do it - something isn't right with mine, likely operator-induced-error, but I'll dink with it tomorrow and see if it's something simple to fix (me).
thanks for the kind words
back to lights
waterproof connectors
let there be light
if you're curious what the pair draw...
the ignitor brings it up to about 12 amps to start them both... believe it or not, these are 35w, the 55w (upper lights) take almost exactly the same amount of power. For those who ask why, because I wanted work/flood/fog lights down low so as not to blind other drivers
and the occasional jeep gets in the way of progress
pretty radiator, though
more wiring
now I have adequate lighting
a
thanks for the kind words
back to lights
waterproof connectors
let there be light
if you're curious what the pair draw...
the ignitor brings it up to about 12 amps to start them both... believe it or not, these are 35w, the 55w (upper lights) take almost exactly the same amount of power. For those who ask why, because I wanted work/flood/fog lights down low so as not to blind other drivers
and the occasional jeep gets in the way of progress
pretty radiator, though
more wiring
now I have adequate lighting
a
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #1,699
One of those interesting things I learned. This is my first dana 300 transfer case, and when I bought/built it I wonder about whether or not to put 4:1 gears in the case. The answer is unequivocally no. On the trail, it was just-right gears, maybe needed just a touch lower gear - however, on the highway, I rarely used 5th gear - which means that when I do the air lockers, I should go to 5.13 or 5.38 gears. That gives me the low range that works for the wheeling I do, and makes 5th gear useful again...
The other thing is I need to kill the drone - this is quieter without a top, at speed then the Kuhmo tires on my H3 with the windows up; but the mufflers are just under annoying, and too loud... so I will, eventually, put DBX or similar mufflers on - benefit of those mufflers is they already have heat wrapping on the inside...
The other thing is I need to kill the drone - this is quieter without a top, at speed then the Kuhmo tires on my H3 with the windows up; but the mufflers are just under annoying, and too loud... so I will, eventually, put DBX or similar mufflers on - benefit of those mufflers is they already have heat wrapping on the inside...
Ouch, that damage sucks. I hope it will buff out.
I found a puddle of oil on the ground again. The leak at the back of the block is back. Got to pull the hood and climb on top to figure out exactly where it comes from.
Glad you guys had fun. it was a great day. No roll-overs or multi-car collisions on the way home.
I found a puddle of oil on the ground again. The leak at the back of the block is back. Got to pull the hood and climb on top to figure out exactly where it comes from.
Glad you guys had fun. it was a great day. No roll-overs or multi-car collisions on the way home.