Seriously considering an FJ Cruiser purchase.

[Replicant]

Hi all,

I am recent to the forum and joined to begin researching necessary restoration for my 77 FJ40 (I have had this vehicle for 23 years). With that in mind, I have had a yearning to get back to a regular 4x4 driver. I will admit that after eagerly awaiting the arrival of the FJ, I was somewhat unimpressed. Well it's been a few years and after a couple of Range Rovers I am thinking about moving back to Toyota. Looking at the FJ, I think it could meet my needs and it's quirkiness is growing on me. Where I get confused is in the area of available options and subtle changes. I am more interested in the recent years 2010 and newer. I could go either way on stick vs. auto but I don't know what the upgrade packages consist of and whether they are worth it. I have no intention of doing serious wheeling or rock crawling. I do a fair amount of hunting and back roads kind of stuff. And I do spend plenty of time in the snow. At first blush, I see an immediate need to give it a 2.5" lift and decent bumpers but these are after market options. I would greatly appreciate anyone's input on what to avoid and what to look for. I have heard about a 'trail' series or something like that. TRD package? Anything else? Thanks in advance.

 

[steven4mc]

You'll find everything you want to know, with some searching on this site:
Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

 

[Mtbcoach]

Despite the above post, a lot can be learned here also...

As I'm sure you know, we often buy a vehicle with an idea what it will be used for, it then evolves as you drive it and modify it for you needs.

The FJC is great right off the truck, can take on much more than many will lead you to believe. There is really no need for modifications until you start pushing past hunting trails and moderate rating trails, the biggest set back with be with the tires. ATRAC works very well and can get it through most conditions. Know that the former Toyota Trail Team drove them through the Rubicon and many other trails across the US with BFG AT, 285/70/17's, a "hockey puck" lift for the front, Budbuilt skids and ARB front bumper, minimal upgrades IMHO.

Minimum upgrades would be the rear locker (so you can add ATRAC with a switch) and remote locking doors. This is how I bought mine and how I would do it again. I would add sliders (Demello or Budbuilt) for protection and you will be good to go. OME and Ironman make fine suspension upgrades that won't kill your budget but I'd only do that if I wanted to go with tires greater than a 255/85/16.

All the various upgrades do little for performance or capability, does well for increasing profits. The packages are badging and little more.

If you even an inkling of modding it (which is clear with wanting to upgrade bumpers), get it without all the extras and upgrade away. If you want to kill some time, click on my build thread in my sig, it might give you some ideas of what could happen if the bug bites...

 

[steven4mc]

Despite the above post, a lot can be learned here also...

oops sorry, just assumed he had already searched this site.

 

[Mtbcoach]

oops sorry, just assumed he had already searched this site.

no worries...

 

[BMThiker]

I believe the CQ package from Toyota is the basic remote entry, electric mirrors & locks combo. And as Jerry said, just get as basic as you can with 4WD and the rear locker. All 4WD models with a rear factory locker are prewired for the ATrac system and all you need to do is buy a $40 switch from the dealer and install it in the dash console.

 

[Replicant]

Despite the above post, a lot can be learned here also...

As I'm sure you know, we often buy a vehicle with an idea what it will be used for, it then evolves as you drive it and modify it for you needs.

Yep!

The FJC is great right off the truck, can take on much more than many will lead you to believe. There is really no need for modifications until you start pushing past hunting trails and moderate rating trails, the biggest set back with be with the tires. ATRAC works very well and can get it through most conditions. Know that the former Toyota Trail Team drove them through the Rubicon and many other trails across the US with BFG AT, 285/70/17's, a "hockey puck" lift for the front, Budbuilt skids and ARB front bumper, minimal upgrades IMHO.

Understood!

Minimum upgrades would be the rear locker (so you can add ATRAC with a switch) and remote locking doors. This is how I bought mine and how I would do it again. I would add sliders (Demello or Budbuilt) for protection and you will be good to go. OME and Ironman make fine suspension upgrades that won't kill your budget but I'd only do that if I wanted to go with tires greater than a 255/85/16.

Ok, this is what I am leaning towards.

All the various upgrades do little for performance or capability, does well for increasing profits. The packages are badging and little more.

That's what I really needed to know. Thanks.

If you even an inkling of modding it (which is clear with wanting to upgrade bumpers), get it without all the extras and upgrade away. If you want to kill some time, click on my build thread in my sig, it might give you some ideas of what could happen if the bug bites...

This is great. Thanks.

 

[Replicant]

oops sorry, just assumed he had already searched this site.

Honestly, I had only visited the site once. But thanks I will check it out. According to , I am in no hurry.

 

[Replicant]

I believe the CQ package from Toyota is the basic remote entry, electric mirrors & locks combo. And as Jerry said, just get as basic as you can with 4WD and the rear locker. All 4WD models with a rear factory locker are prewired for the ATrac system and all you need to do is buy a $40 switch from the dealer and install it in the dash console.

I did not know this. Thanks, it is good to know.

 

[orangeboxxfab]

You will be seriously happy with your purchase

 

[dcoy]

I'd go for it

I love mine. Originally purchased an '08 as a backup Cruiser for my FJ60. Three years later, the FJ60 has yet to have its Vortec conversion ironed out so we still use the FJC more than it. I've been slow to mod it, at least partly because I don't want to ruin it, but the FJC Forums make it difficult to leave it alone.

It drives nicely on and off the road (almost feels like a sports car compared to the 60), it looks cool (IMO), and it makes it to our destinations without protest.

 

[Replicant]

I love mine. Originally purchased an '08 as a backup Cruiser for my FJ60. Three years later, the FJ60 has yet to have its Vortec conversion ironed out so we still use the FJC more than it. I've been slow to mod it, at least partly because I don't want to ruin it, but the FJC Forums make it difficult to leave it alone.

It drives nicely on and off the road (almost feels like a sports car compared to the 60), it looks cool (IMO), and it makes it to our destinations without protest.

Thanks. The is kind of about it. Mostly because her daily driver is a recent model Suburban to haul the two giant dogs and one tiny toddler around in. For some reason, she does not see the difference. She is angling for me to go with something with better mileage. Regardless, eventually I will get my way . Over the years, I have drooled over the 60s, the 80s and so on. Ironically the fj didnt' get me excited at first until I started digging into it more. I am not looking to do huge mods or anything (after two plus decades of owning an fj40, the only thing I have done to it is rebuild the engine (stock) and give it a paint job (time to do over). I just know from experience that the front and back end tend to take a beating (hence, why I would like to upgrade the bumpers). The only other thing I want is to get good rubber and for it all to fit. Don't want to change the dynamics of what makes it a good all around driver too much, just want to cover my needs. If we could get them in diesel I would have bought one when they first came out. At the rate I am going, I probably wont' be able to pick one up till Spring. Love this place. Thanks for the ideas and advice.

 

[woooody]

If it were me doing this now, I would try to find a used one that had most of the mods you are looking for. If you do buy used, check for the fender bulge (2007-2009), and see if you can get the original owner to get it fixed before you buy. It's an $8000 repair (roughly) so that would be the biggest issue used.

If you buy new, you don't really need many factory mods. CQ sounds like a decent start. I agree with most of what you listed, but don't expect good mileage as you go down the mod road. 15 - 16 iis doing well as you lift, get different tires/rims, add bumpers etc. But I do think it's a good platform.

 

[BMThiker]

Not to start a flame war, but I have the fender cracks on mine and aside from perhaps some unproven difference in a major head-on impact, I don't have a problem with them. I have steel bumpers and steel fender tubes that will probably affect the outcome of a major head-on collision more than a couple of tears in my inner fenders. I'm not a litigious person, so I've never gone back to my dealer to try to get them to fix it - read too many stories of fighting back and forth with dealer or that it took them 4 weeks to fix it.

It would not necessarily be a deal breaker for me if I were buying a used truck and planned to add some new bumpers and sliders to it. I certainly wouldn't expect a seller to fix it before trying to sell it, especially at $8K.

Buying used is definitely the way to go. I prefer the 2008-2009 models (can't remember if 2010 denoted the engine change or if that was 2011)....because more aftermarket bumpers fit the pre-engine change models. It has to do with the relocation of the window washer reservoir. Also, post 2007models didn't have ring and pinion metallurgy problems.

 

[woooody]

BMT -- The cracks affect the fitment of the fender, and eventually lead to the door hitting the fender when opening / closing. While I agree that the bulge/crack does not affect safety, it is a defect and should be repaired.

I'm not advocating that the seller pay for that repair. I'm suggesting that the original owner has a better shot of getting it fixed than a 2nd owner would. If it can't be fixed, it should be used as a negotiating tool during the purchase, just as a dent, a scratch, worn interior, or high mileage are used when determining the value. My observation is that South East Toyota is resistant to the repair, and that on the West Coast, the Toyota reps seem to understand the defect better. But nothing is guaranteed.

 

[BMThiker]

Salient points. I'd certainly use every negotiating point I could - and you're right, the fender cracks would definitely be a large part of negotiating.


Sidenote: my fenders cracks have almost gone all the way down and no problems with the doors yet.

 

[Replicant]

If it were me doing this now, I would try to find a used one that had most of the mods you are looking for. If you do buy used, check for the fender bulge (2007-2009), and see if you can get the original owner to get it fixed before you buy. It's an $8000 repair (roughly) so that would be the biggest issue used.

I am looking at 2010 and newer. Even though I don't know what the cracks/bulge issue is. I have heard of them.

If you buy new, you don't really need many factory mods. CQ sounds like a decent start. I agree with most of what you listed, but don't expect good mileage as you go down the mod road. 15 - 16 iis doing well as you lift, get different tires/rims, add bumpers etc. But I do think it's a good platform.

Not planning to buy new. Actually, I never buy new. To your point I don't want to do too much to mess with the mileage or the 'good' qualities of the FJ that are already built in.

BMT -- The cracks affect the fitment of the fender, and eventually lead to the door hitting the fender when opening / closing. While I agree that the bulge/crack does not affect safety, it is a defect and should be repaired.

Very good to know. Thanks.

I'm not advocating that the seller pay for that repair. I'm suggesting that the original owner has a better shot of getting it fixed than a 2nd owner would. If it can't be fixed, it should be used as a negotiating tool during the purchase, just as a dent, a scratch, worn interior, or high mileage are used when determining the value. My observation is that South East Toyota is resistant to the repair, and that on the West Coast, the Toyota reps seem to understand the defect better. But nothing is guaranteed.

Yup. Thanks for the input.

 

[Replicant]

Buying used is definitely the way to go. I prefer the 2008-2009 models (can't remember if 2010 denoted the engine change or if that was 2011)....because more aftermarket bumpers fit the pre-engine change models. It has to do with the relocation of the window washer reservoir. Also, post 2007models didn't have ring and pinion metallurgy problems.

Interesting. Thanks for the input.

 

[curlyeagle]

U can't go wrong with the FJC. I currently only have the 2.5 level kit right now and running 32" tires. I did change out the running boards for sliders due to a couple little rocks. I've been wheelin' the early 80's pick-ups for years and this is like a caddy in ride comfort. The wife loves it too since it smooth and has A/C. Big plus. And like everyone says, make sure it has the e-locker. With the 32's, (e-rated tires) I'm still running 17-18 mpg on reg gas.

 

[dcoy]

Originally purchased an '08 as a backup Cruiser for my FJ60. Three years later, the FJ60 has yet to have its Vortec conversion ironed out so we still use the FJC more than it. I've been slow to mod it, at least partly because I don't want to ruin it, but the FJC Forums make it difficult to leave it alone.

Originally bought an '08 as a backup Cruiser for my FJ60. Three years subsequent, the FJ60 has yet to have its Vortec alteration ironed out so we still use the FJC more than it. I've been slow to mod it, not less than partially because I don't desire to wreck it, but the FJC Forums make it tough to depart it alone.

That's a little creepy. Phrase by phrase plagiarism. Not sure what the point of it is though, aside from being creepy.

Sometimes I feel like I am a sociopath magnet.