Selection: .030 or .035 mig wire?

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woytovich

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Which generally has a broader usage in a cruiser world? The range from sheet metal to frames, bumper building, shackle reversals, spring perches...

Am I significantly limiting my sheet metal work with .035?

Is the consequence of using .030 on heavier work that I'll need multiple passes or am I cutting back on penetration/strength overall?

Is there a better wire to be using?

Thanks,
Mark

PS welder is a small one, a Lincoln 180HD on 220v with CO2/Argon
 
I usually keep 0.035 in the welder, but if I'm doing thin sheet metal I switch down to 0.024. It only takes a couple of minutes to change over.
 
I usually keep 0.035 in the welder, but if I'm doing thin sheet metal I switch down to 0.024. It only takes a couple of minutes to change over.

What MIG unit are you using to allow you that ability?? Most MIG units I've ever used need appropriate liners to properly feed wire. This usually max's out within .05 +/- a smidge.

I own two MIG welders. My Lincoln SP100 is only used for sheetmetal work. It's the unit I learned how to mig weld on almost 20 years ago. I probably use this one 80% of the time. I have always owned a 220V MIG for thicker stuff as well. I currently acquired an Airco Dip Pak 200 which is a nice unit capable of spray transfer.

Having both types makes it easier for me to switch back and forth if I plan on doing alot of different thickness material during a days work. I'm not sure if you are really looking for another unit, but I do see 110V Millermatics and comparable Lincolns/Hobarts on CL pretty regularly.

.030 wire is just fine for most auto projects including frames. I usually opt to use this size wire over thicker gauge for frames. It fills in nice and allows you to run the wire a tad hotter. The thicker stuff usually requires more heat and can tend to blow through if you are not familiar with using it on thinner frame material.
 
For my Cruiser choosing between .035 and .030 wire would be easy. I would select the .030 because it will easily do the sheet metal patches on my 72 and will also have enough punch to weld the bumpers or frame when I need to.

Plus IMHO the .030 is the "sweet spot" wire for the 180 class 230 welders, I personally don't like how they handle .035 wire.

023/024 wire is great for thin sheet metal body work, but the cruisers I have are about .050" thick sheet metal and the .030 wire seems to work fine for me.
 
I too keep two Mig machines, one Miller P-350 loaded with .035 wire and a Millermatic 250 loaded with .023.
I only run miller welders and can tell you, you can get away with running these two wires without messing with the liner. You do need to change tip size and roller/feeders in some cases simply flip around.
 
What MIG unit are you using to allow you that ability?? Most MIG units I've ever used need appropriate liners to properly feed wire. This usually max's out within .05 +/- a smidge.

I have a Millermatic Autoset 211. The standard liner does 0.030-0.035, but I haven't had any trouble with feeding 0.024 through it. I don't use it often setup like this, I just keep a small spool of 0.024 just for sheet metal work.
 
What MIG unit are you using to allow you that ability?? Most MIG units I've ever used need appropriate liners to properly feed wire. This usually max's out within .05 +/- a smidge.

My MillerMatic 35 will run .024 to .035. Just needs a drive roll change to run the .024. The .024 will birdnest if I burn it back at the tip but that's more an operator problem than a machine problem IMHO. :rolleyes:

Typically I run .030 as it will do most things I wanna do with the welder. I only swap to .024 when I'm working on non-old Toyota sheetmetal.

Nick
 
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