Securing Cargo in the Rear Area

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Yep, there's nothing in the back of my 87 FJ60. I need to figure out a better temporary system for the tailgating season. Cooler, grille, cornhole boards, and chairs don't listen to my stay command when I hit the brakes.:confused:
 
What I am thinking to do is cut a piece of 3/4" outdoor ply to fit in the rear area. It will have pockets cut into it like shown for the recessed tie-downs.
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This way the whole load would have to move as one unit. Maybe not as good as tying down to the body, but short of a yard sale class roll over it won't make much difference. The idea is easy removal for other uses of the vehicle without making mods that allow dirt/grit/water entry. And it's fast and simple to do.
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My 83 did. had four hooks on the floor underneath the carpet

I used aircraft cargo holddowns in my 80. much like the trailer tracking shown above, but smaller track, so cleaner looking.
 
My 83 did. had four hooks on the floor underneath the carpet

I used aircraft cargo holddowns in my 80. much like the trailer tracking shown above, but smaller track, so cleaner looking.

I'll have to give it another look tomorrow...
 
fwiw, 84's got no hooks.

I like the tie-down plyboard idea: post up pix when yr done w/it. If ya really felt like being slick you could rig it up as a campsite table by adding detachable legs.

check out Kevin Rowlands rig: he placed hooks below the rear windows to secure stuff. https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/200578-rotw-kevinmrowland.html post #28.

He also sells tailgate & side cargo panels that allow for storage: Home
 
fwiw, 84's got no hooks.

I like the tie-down plyboard idea: post up pix when yr done w/it. If ya really felt like being slick you could rig it up as a campsite table by adding detachable legs.

check out Kevin Rowlands rig: he placed hooks below the rear windows to secure stuff. https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/200578-rotw-kevinmrowland.html post #28.

He also sells tailgate & side cargo panels that allow for storage: Home

I did the same type of eye hooks in the body. With fender washers holding the hooks against the body, they never flex. I use ratchet straps to secure stuff in the back of my truck, and I still haven't bent the hooks or the body.
 
For lashing points up higher I was thinking to use footman loops or Eye Straps as they don't stick out so far and catch things passing by.




I use two of the 137 sized straps to anchor my ARB fridge in the rear of my Suburban. They will be moving to the 6T.
 
I used some rope guides that I got at a marine supply store. I installed them in the D-Pillar using a jack nut (a jack nut is an expanding nut that works in sheet metal. A nut rivet would work too). I think I was able to also get a washer on the back side of the jack nut. I bolted D-rings through the floor (one on each side) and farther forward two more D rings into the wheel well.
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I made it home from the first wheeling trip and didn't have anything hurled at my head. How, you may ask, did I do this? With all the help from this thread, of course! :cheers:

For all of my fluids, I crammed what I could into the passenger side quarter panel and put the trim piece back on. Sorry, no pics, but a little imagination goes a long way.

For the cooler, I took the access panel for the jack out, hooked a ratchet strap to one of upright supports, ran the strap around the cooler, and hooked the other end to the other upright. Like so...

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For the tool bag, recovery bag, and come-a-along, I put the back seat down and ran a ratchet strap between seat clamps, through the handles for the respective bags. I don't have a pic of it in trail form, but the idea is the same for the drive home, I actually put the sleeping bag underneath the strap to help hold it down. Like so...

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This also let me put the FSM, thin tackle box of misc connectors/bolts/etc, and jumper cables under the seat back.

Hopefully, I'll have a platform built or at least better tie downs in place before the next wheeling trip, but at least I was able to keep safe for this one. Thanks again to all who contributed! :beer:

Yeah looks familiar, but nothing hanging out cool. Will work till you get the tie downs installed. LOL Doc:bounce:
 
I did the plywood platform trick. I mounted (8) VersaTie downs VersaTie Connectors - Single Stud Tie-Down Ring VT-1000 in the back of the 60. Cut holes in the plywood so that the tie downs were exposed and used webbing and cam buckles to lash everything down. I mounted the Engel fridge cargo locker and the water can cage directly to the plywood. The nice thing is when I'm done I remove the plywood and everything comes out with it.
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I haven't gone on wheeling expeditions with my rig but had some problems with my fishing equipment and coolers flying around in the rear. 62s have 4 built in tie-downs on the floor (not sure about 60s though) but I needed some on the sides as well to secure items to the walls of the cargo area.

I got some eye bolts, cut them down to size and screwed them through the rear cargo panels into the existing mounting holes. This solved 2 problems for me... I had a problem with my rear cargo panels staying in place especially with the heavier than stock speakers mounted. The plastic male/female connectors did not do a very good job securing the panels and I would often hear the panels flapping around in the rear when driving. The eye bolts screwed through the existing holes worked wonderfully and gave me additional sturdy securing points.

I can easily unscrew the eye bolts to get to items I have stored behind the panels and easily screw the eye bolts back in to secure the panel, secure the items behind the panels and provide additional tie-down points.
 
I used some rope guides that I got at a marine supply store. I installed them in the D-Pillar using a jack nut (a jack nut is an expanding nut that works in sheet metal. A nut rivet would work too). I think I was able to also get a washer on the back side of the jack nut. I bolted D-rings through the floor (one on each side) and farther forward two more D rings into the wheel well.
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Thread revival....

How much clearance under the floor is there to go poking holes for securing cargo? Is there room enough between the floor and fuel tank that I don't have to worry about drilling through both? Enough room for fasteners like above?
Butt
 
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Butt,

My last inspection noted that the fuel tank is pretty close up against the underside of the cargo area. There is plenty of room on either side of the tank. I would be careful where you drill in the 60's cargo area. The 80 series is completely empty under the floor. nice.

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you should crawl under and take a look. The drivers side is pretty clear, but the passenger side also had brake lines, etc. that you need to try to avoid. If you use rivet nuts, get some that are closed at the bottom, that way water will be less likely to seep in.
 
Revival pics... They've held some heavy items securely on road (63lb guitar amp, filled coolers, etc).

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Thread revival....

How much clearance under the floor is there to go poking holes for securing cargo? Is there room enough between the floor and fuel tank that I don't have to worry about drilling through both? Enough room for fasteners like above?
Butt

I put these in all four corners of the cargo area -

Expedition Exchange Incorporated :: Cargo Tie-Down :: Mac's Custom Tie-Downs Anchor Plate Assembly Kit (VT-1005-250)

It is easy to get around the tank when you start looking at it. It was harder for me to figure out how to avoid the rear seat but get it in good position. I'll take a pic of where I put mine when I get home today.

:beer: Chad
 
Small hijack: read what EE thinks of their customers on their own forum before spending any money with them. They will never see any of my money, ever. hijack over.

Those are a nice solution. I've seen them listed in a lot of the truck supply pages and race car vendor pages. Cabela's may even carry them.
 

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