Seating Rings 22RE

[snobdds]

A little bit of oil consumption is normal on new rebuilt motors. I was not easy on my motor when I was breaking it in. I took it up to 4K rpm and engine breaked it back down to 1k multiple times. My builder told me to do this on multiple heat cycles of the engine. By the 5th heat cycly, I could actually feel the engine starting to free up a bit.

How is your PVC valve, your crankcase pressure might be too high causing some blow by. I would suggest a OEM PVC valve, it has the correct spring rate to open and close the valve.

 

[bryan89]

If you could Bryan, at your convenience, get a reading at normal operating temp and note the position your gauge is reading at. I'll try to do the same next week. I do plan on getting the 2 stage thermostat when I change it out, if I do indeed need it. I suspect I'm running cool, but again that is all assumption and I won't know until I get the reading.

after thinking about it, using a IR gauge on the side of the block will not be that accurate. i mean the sensor for the gauge is in the water path. measuring the surface temp on the side of the block will take in to account the temperature gradient through the approximate 1/4" of cast iron.

the best thing would be to measure the output of the actual sensor in a pot of boiling water. since we know the exact temp of boiling water (212*F) we could associate that point with a location on the non-numeric gauge.

However, i dont particularly want to tear into my cooling system since it seems to be working. BUT, i can do the next best thing. i have some surface mount thermo-couples at work and next week i can attach one of them to the hot water outlet pipe an measure temp there. the outlet pipe is very thin wall steel and if i insulate it while i take the readings, then i should get pretty accurate results. (insulation would eliminate any radiated heat from engine / cooling from fan)

so..it may not be perfectly accurate but i can try it some time next week. ill post up what i do and some pics of the corresponding gauge positions and all.

 

[skully3]

There are three rings on the pistons and they have to be in correct order. also the ring gaps should be staggered upon installation. if the cyl were just honed out there is usaully always a low spot at TDC and BTC from the crank rolling the piston. Boring the cyl OS always solve that. My truck always runs on the cool side but always good heat.

 

[toy4xfun]

when i rebuilt my 87 i used molly rings, but when i got it all back together and filled it with anti freeze it developed a air pocket in the system so on test drive she got real hot, i stopped and let it cool and then drove it back home, the rings seated that day.

i also have a few friends that build race engines and they all say to seal molly rings you need to run the engine hot.

 

[fjdemon]

A little bit of oil consumption is normal on new rebuilt motors. I was not easy on my motor when I was breaking it in. I took it up to 4K rpm and engine breaked it back down to 1k multiple times. My builder told me to do this on multiple heat cycles of the engine. By the 5th heat cycly, I could actually feel the engine starting to free up a bit.

How is your PVC valve, your crankcase pressure might be too high causing some blow by. I would suggest a OEM PVC valve, it has the correct spring rate to open and close the valve.

I'll have to check the pcv valve to see if it is oem. I do know this much. Just prior to changing the oil I ran some engine stuff similar to sea foam through the oil for 30 mins. It was about 8 ounces. When I tried to start it at first it was a hard start, and when I took off the oil cap it wanted to die. This was only with it topped off on oil plus 8 ounces of this stuff. After I changed it and refilled it to normal level of oil it started first time every time like before. Could this be an indicator of high crankcase pressure?

after thinking about it, using a IR gauge on the side of the block will not be that accurate. i mean the sensor for the gauge is in the water path. measuring the surface temp on the side of the block will take in to account the temperature gradient through the approximate 1/4" of cast iron.

the best thing would be to measure the output of the actual sensor in a pot of boiling water. since we know the exact temp of boiling water (212*F) we could associate that point with a location on the non-numeric gauge.

However, i dont particularly want to tear into my cooling system since it seems to be working. BUT, i can do the next best thing. i have some surface mount thermo-couples at work and next week i can attach one of them to the hot water outlet pipe an measure temp there. the outlet pipe is very thin wall steel and if i insulate it while i take the readings, then i should get pretty accurate results. (insulation would eliminate any radiated heat from engine / cooling from fan)

so..it may not be perfectly accurate but i can try it some time next week. ill post up what i do and some pics of the corresponding gauge positions and all.

Yeah... makes sense. How about you just shoot your block with the IR in the same place I do? It will give us some accuracy to see if we are at similar temps. If we are and my gauge reads lower than yours we'll know one of ours is off, probably mine in this case. I don't have any thermo-couples on hand. But if you can get that number easily it could give us a ballpark range. Thanks for the help!

There are three rings on the pistons and they have to be in correct order. also the ring gaps should be staggered upon installation. if the cyl were just honed out there is usaully always a low spot at TDC and BTC from the crank rolling the piston. Boring the cyl OS always solve that. My truck always runs on the cool side but always good heat.

Mine puts out great heat too, and runs pretty darn good. Just appears to be running cool according to the gauge.

when i rebuilt my 87 i used molly rings, but when i got it all back together and filled it with anti freeze it developed a air pocket in the system so on test drive she got real hot, i stopped and let it cool and then drove it back home, the rings seated that day.

i also have a few friends that build race engines and they all say to seal molly rings you need to run the engine hot.

Yep, I think heat did the trick for mine. I literally went from burning a quart of oil on a short trip to almost no difference at all after I heated up my block. Might be the trick to do.