sealing bell housing for river crossings? (1 Viewer)

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I'm about to refit the gearbox in my 80 series

Has anybody else sealed the rubber boots in the top of the bell housing to stop water going in?
I've extended the breather but these 2 big holes that will obviously let a lot of water in if they go under water, what are they for?
I had a Patrol before the 80 series and the bell housing is completely sealed in them so i'm guessing it will be ok if I seal up the 80 series bell housing?
 
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I don’t think it’s too big of an issue if the clutch packs get wet. Or just seal the top so there is a pocket of air but any debris can still spill out
 
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I don’t think it’s too big of an issue if the clutch packs get wet. Or just seal the top so there is a pocket of air but any debris can still spill out
If water goes between the flywheel and the clutch plate, the clutch is stuffed. I've had it happen once on my patrol which is why I sealed it in the first place when re-doing the clutch

So basically you cant disengage the clutch if theres water in the bellhousing.

The thing I don't get about the 80 series bellhousing is these 2 big holes at the top have rubber boots that act like big scoops, are they to funnel air in whilst driving?
 
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I have done exactly that... I welded up to the two big holes and just left the drain hole at the bottom. Further to that, I actually added a hose barb where I can pump in compressed air during river crossings (which also helps blow out clutch dust).
No adverse effects from heat so far (although haven’t done a lot of hot weather driving yet).
 
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If water goes between the flywheel and the clutch plate, the clutch is stuffed. I've had it happen once on my patrol which is why I sealed it in the first place when re-doing the clutch

So basically you cant disengage the clutch if theres water in the bellhousing.

The thing I don't get about the 80 series bellhousing is these 2 big holes at the top have rubber boots that act like big scoops, are they to funnel air in whilst driving?

It could be the case, but I haven’t had issues with that, and I have been through water to the point where it started to bob or float and I couldn’t get traction and didn’t have issues. Also a fair bit of winter wheeling water crossings, but maybe the NV4500 trans keeps water out differently
 
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I suspect of it was much of an issue, Mr. T would've sealed them up. If you're still moving, it would tend to hold an air bubble briefly, as it does under the hood, just don't stop to enjoy the view because it depends on forward momentum to keep the bubble in place.

Not to dismiss your experience, but I have a hard time seeing how a clucth wouldn't disengage if the bellhousing were full of water. I do see how it might cause dificulty with it slipping and not fully engaging.
 
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The issue is if you get stuck and need to reverse.... if you put your foot on the clutch to change gear you’ll let mud and s*** get between the clutch plate which will ruin it pretty quickly. Ideally don’t ever put your foot on the clutch while it water, and once you’ve reached the other side don’t put your foot on the clutch to stop, instead just turn the engine off while in gear. Let it sit for a few minutes to drain the water out before using the clutch
 
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I suspect of it was much of an issue, Mr. T would've sealed them up. If you're still moving, it would tend to hold an air bubble briefly, as it does under the hood, just don't stop to enjoy the view because it depends on forward momentum to keep the bubble in place.

Not to dismiss your experience, but I have a hard time seeing how a clucth wouldn't disengage if the bellhousing were full of water. I do see how it might cause dificulty with it slipping and not fully engaging.
Toyota didn't intend the car to go that deep in water, the standard rear diff breather is just mounted up on the chassis.

Water in the bell housing obviously doesnt stop the clutch from disengaging. But if you do disengage it with water in there, water gets onto the clutch plate and the clutch wont hold any power. I dont know if thats because of small amounts of oil / mud etc getting washed onto the clutch or if water alone kills the clutch
 
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Toyota didn't intend the car to go that deep in water, the standard rear diff breather is just mounted up on the chassis.

Water in the bell housing obviously doesnt stop the clutch from disengaging. But if you do disengage it with water in there, water gets onto the clutch plate and the clutch wont hold any power. I dont know if thats because of small amounts of oil / mud etc getting washed onto the clutch or if water alone kills the clutch
If it's water that tends toward the gritier, I could see grit washing in and preventing good engagement. Water alone I would think would boil off pretty quick.

The 80 has never been places my FJ55 was and Mr. T doesn't trust us with manual transmissions any longer in the US, so hard to make a direct comparison. Never had this issue in the 55 with the 4-speed, though.
 

Howard705

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On my 40s deep water slips the clutch BAD but enough to move.

On my '79 a few years ago I had been through lots of deep water and put it away wet. A few weeks later needed to drive it ant the disc had rusted to the flywheel. NO disengagement whatsoever. I have dealt with it before on other stuff and drive it about 5 miles with the clutch on the floor- beating it off and on the throttle in higher gears popping the throttle etc mercilessly until it broke free. drove fine since. Had to start off using the starter to take off in gear and shift wo the clutch by feel etc however am used to that. on another 40 the T/O bearing got noisy after lots of water and had to change it eventually.
 

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