school me on recentering hummer beadlock wheels to toyota pattern

[slickrock]

As the title says, I may have the opportunity to swap out my tires for hummer beadlocked 36" military muds. Is it a moajor deal to redo the wheels or is it cheaper and easier to buy wheel spacers/adapters?
Edit: OK, recentering is the key. I was thinking if Ido this, I would get them form a place like this: http://copperheadfab.com/index.php?action=catview&cat=Hummer H1 Wheel Centers

Now I need to get schooled on how to properly do this and what type of dial indicator would I need to set up the centers so they are true? How would I attach the indicator to the axle to check for true?

 

[EWheeler]

I would buy from Trailworthy on Pirate.

RECENTERED H1 Special!!!! - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

Boots4 just did this in his family haulin thread. Post 1048.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/160807-family-haulin-35.html

 

[slickrock]

That's great. It looks like it is a lot easier to get the pressed in centers. 3" back space is perfect. He suggested getting them from MadMac on Pirate. Anyone else know of a place that sells the pressed in centers for toyota bolt pattern?

 

[Mace]

go pressed.. much stronger

 

[LC_Hamma]

I run the 3/8" plate centers in 2 rigs, but if the pressed centers were available back if I had an option, I would've chosen the pressed, mainly to save weight. I recently recentered a set, cuz I already had the 3/8" centers, & they turned out really nice & true. I used a method w/ a flat steel plate bottom & some 25 lb. flat & round iron weights, stacked inside the wheel to get my backspacing. I tacked criss-cross, then checked w/ a level & burned them in.

 

[slickrock]

I run the 3/8" plate centers in 2 rigs, but if the pressed centers were available back if I had an option, I would've chosen the pressed, mainly to save weight. I recently recentered a set, cuz I already had the 3/8" centers, & they turned out really nice & true. I used a method w/ a flat steel plate bottom & some 25 lb. flat & round iron weights, stacked inside the wheel to get my backspacing. I tacked criss-cross, then checked w/ a level & burned them in.

So you basically place the wheel minus the center on a flat surface. Find something totally flat and the same height as you want your back spacing. Place this inside the hollow wheel, then put the center on top. This ould keep things flat and true.

Wow that is totally easy and would make it perfectly centered and true. Soudns like that would be the best option.. Not as easy as a press in center, but a lot cheaper and works well.

 

[Mace]

best bet is to male a jig with your front axle and a bolt that will allow you to spin the tire and verify runout.

 

[slickrock]

best bet is to male a jig with your front axle and a bolt that will allow you to spin the tire and verify runout.

Do you have any more info on how to do this with the front axle?

 

[Mace]

It's as easy as spot welding a piece of bar with a nut on the end to the axle so that a bolt can be threaded through the nut and touch the outer edge of the rim.

 

[LC_Hamma]

So you basically place the wheel minus the center on a flat surface. Find something totally flat and the same height as you want your back spacing. Place this inside the hollow wheel, then put the center on top. This ould keep things flat and true.

Wow that is totally easy and would make it perfectly centered and true. Soudns like that would be the best option.. Not as easy as a press in center, but a lot cheaper and works well.

Yeah, I ain't called simplefab fer nuttin Since the last set I did is for trail only, a *little runout is okay. I bolted them up & checked w/a level & they looked dead on. I wouldn't go this route w/ a DD rig or if it sees highway time. You can search over on Pirate as they have a ton of info on recentering these rims. I forgot to mention if your wheels don't have drainage holes cut in the edges of your wheel centers, do it now before you weld them in.

 

[bustanutley]

Do you have any more info on how to do this with the front axle?

Think: bicycle wheel truing stand.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

 

[me_tu05]

I would search on pirate, there are a lot of great ideas on how to get them as true as possible. I have one that is not very true because I did it at a different time than the other three and now I have a wheel that cannot be balanced. I don't really care because I only drive across an island to go wheeling.
When I checked runout, I tacked the centers in and bolted them to the front axle, then used a dial caliper mounted on the axle to check the runout while spinning the wheel. Pretty simple I'd say.

 

[sixty]

Not much to contribute to this thread but when I was in San Diego this year, the navy had brand new, fully loaded CC Duramax's, painted flat grey with recentered 12-bolt H1 bead locks and pressed centers.

I'd definately go withthe pressed centers. They are stronger and easier to install than the flat centers. the only problem is the most back spacing you can get is 3.25". I've put mine thru the paces with no trouble so far