School me on Air shocks

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Most people run them with no more than 6" of available uptravel.. the higher you want it to sit, the more pressure you'll need to run. Do you actually have that much usable uptravel in your suspension?

Don't forget, the volume of oil plays a big part in your rate too.
 
2.5s will definitely work on the front. . . I run those with 200 PSI, 6" of upstroke left at the moment. Gonna add more nitro to get 8-10 upstroke. I agree with adding some more oil to stiffen it up.
 
The 2.0" Kings I've got are holding up fine in the rear of my ride. King set up the oil in the them and I'm running 310psi with about 6 inchs of up travel, I'll bump the pressure a little when I man up and get some 37's.

that is all
 
That's a thing that I ignored: also oil level could influence the height of shocks.

In effect I don't know how much oil is in them by now; how could I do to set the oil level? Is there an indicator or something like that...?

Anyway, I argue that in the front 2.5" are th best, maybe only, solution. I'll order them right tomorrow...

Francesco
 
I was wanting to know if anyone could tell me the biggest differences in going 3 link or 4 link. I have seen lots of 4 links on vehicles but not very many 3 link. I really like the look of the setup cali cruiser has on the back of his rig. I have been thinking of doing the same thing to mine and leaving the SOA lift on the front. Any thoughts?
 
Oh yea BIFFS i was wanting to know how much different your Rig handles on the road having the link setup in the front. I have thought about doing this but i have heard that i shouldnt do it if i will have it on the road a lot. I do offroad it but i also drive it a lot to work and back when the weather is nice. I am in the process of putting a Vortec 6.0 in it with the 4l80 Tranny and atlas transfer case so i was thinking of doing all of this stuff at the same time so i can just get it over with one tear down.
 
Linked suspension rides fine on the street. I was dailying it for a long time. biggest issue was roll stability, but i added Currie Anti Rocks which fixed that right up.

i'm 4 linked front and rear. word of advice: Currie Johnny Joints suck for this type of system. I'm going to cut off my lowers and get RE or PolyPerf joints for the lowers.

it's all about geometry, i have about 115% AS in the front with a slight Anti Dive in the rear. actually quite stable when you pound the brakes fast.

3 link is typically a radius arm setup or partial one link plus panhard. Works well, but there can be some clearance issues. I 3 linked the front of my 4Runner and it did fine, but it was a bit too squirrelly, but i didn't have a sway bar.

Easiest thing to do is to copy another manufacturer or rip off someone else's ideas if you're not confident in the design.

Check out the "4 link for dummies" threads on Pirate that will keep you busy reading for a week.
 
Want to tell more why you feel Johnny joints suck for a 4 link? I drove mine around, and got going pretty damn fast down some fire roads, and my rig handled just fine. I don't understand?

Is it because you can't adjust them, and you have to get shim kits?
 
more to do with the fact that the side washers are bent quite easily when bashing on side obstacles. what i also found was that the "rubber" is too soft and i get wicked axle side to side movement when bombing down logging roads. you could see the steering wobbling back and forth with the steering wheel stationary and i cameraed the axle shifting side to side due to arm give.

I've actually popped the washers out past the circlips and the whole thing gave up in place. Wicked death wobble when the joint fails.

That and it's nearly impossible to assemble the joints without a vice.

Steering is all Chevy 1 ton Hysteer with hydro assist, so i don't think that it's to do with that.
 
I heard of people complaining about the side washers, but on the old style ones. How long ago were yours made? The washers were changed to be stronger since then.. There was a good thread on the PBB about this.

There's a guy on the PBB selling a little tool that will let you assemble the joints with a few wrenches, too..

Yes, the bushings do have some give, which is what would also make a streetable rig ride more smoothly..

Granted, I'm running the forged joints, which may be a different composition than what yours are...

Here's the thread...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=598723&highlight=johnny+joint
 
Eskimo said:
I heard of people complaining about the side washers, but on the old style ones. How long ago were yours made? The washers were changed to be stronger since then.. There was a good thread on the PBB about this.

There's a guy on the PBB selling a little tool that will let you assemble the joints with a few wrenches, too..

Yes, the bushings do have some give, which is what would also make a streetable rig ride more smoothly..

Granted, I'm running the forged joints, which may be a different composition than what yours are...

Here's the thread...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=598723&highlight=johnny+joint
Click to expand...

Thanks, good read.

From what i could tell there were several modifications made over the history of the joint. Mine are almost 3 years old, the welded bolt-to-joint style, but with the machined in step; single circlip. both washers have blow out on me before, so i kept flipping them around. to bend them the other way!

for the $20 to order a whole new set, I just went ahead and did it. Maybe they've been upgraded since.
 
It'll be interesting to see if the new parts are of a different design than what you have now.. I've only got 2 rides on mine, but they got punished pretty good on the second one :-)

Do your links have a good amount of triangulation?
 
BiffS said:
it's all about geometry, i have about 115% AS in the front with a slight Anti Dive in the rear. actually quite stable when you pound the brakes fast.
Click to expand...



???

Front is antidive, the rear is AS..
 
Yeah, yeah, yeah. . .Look at the time of the original post. It was late and i was tired. . .

anti DIVE and SQUAT.

in layman's terms:

ASS end SITS when hard braking;

Nose end RESISTS sinking when braking

ASS end RISES when hard on gas

Nose end stays put when accelerating.

Lots of triangulation - 41deg on the upper arms, about 15 on the lowers
 
My works are now to a avanced stage and I'm thinking about aira shocks' settings: I'm able to add and low nitrogen'pressure, but I still didn't understand how the oil's level setting works... How do I set it? How the shock's behaviour is influenced by the oil level?

Someone can explain me...? :confused:

Francesco
 
Hi!
I'm finally close to the end of my works!
The 2.5" Fox Air Shocks I bought a couple of months ago came empty and so I have now to fill them.

The question is: wich kind of oil I have to use?? And how much of it goes in each shock???

Thanks!

Francesco
 
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