ScanGauge Install in LC200 (1 Viewer)

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For the ULTIMATE clean install you need to go to :

West Mountain Radio - RIGrunner Description

and order a rig runner.

Makes installing accessories SOOO much easier and cleaner. You will also want to get:

West Mountain Radio - Automatic Power Off Switch from PowerWerx

So that the accessory fuse block shuts off after you turn the LC off.

No more searching for open fuses, accessory on power wires, grounding spaces, etc.

It is ESSENTIAL in EVERY auto I have.

DTT is right. I actually went this route when I installed my CB. I got the RigRunner 4005 and the APO unit. I have it set at 10 minutes, which is really nice. If my car dies for some reason, I still have CB use straight off the battery. I can even flip the "override" switch and it will stay on till the battery dies.

I started with the ADD-A-CIRCUIT, but due to Toyota griping that "I added modifications to the vehicles electrical system" I moved all my accessories over to the Rigrunner. Now they cannot complain because there is a direct line coming off the battery and not tapping into their fuses.

If you look under your driver's seat, there is TONS of room. I fit the rigrunner, APO and the CB module under the seat. I used a large sheet of velcro on the floor and all the models have four corners of velcro. That way, I can easily pull stuff out and add new stuff quickly.

There is a large grommet through the firewall you can use. I used a sharp screwdriver to poke a hole in the rubber, pushed the wires through, and then sealed it with black silicone RTV. Run the wires behind the kick panel, down the step plate and under the driver's seat. Looks damn clean!

Oh, and by the way: PowerPoles rock once they are installed correctly!!! (Just make sure you get extras as I had to cut them off to fit it through the firewall -- wanted the smallest hole possible.)

EDIT: BTW: The Rigrunner makes installing this CB a piece of cake!
http://www.cobra.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=314&category_ID=30
 
DTT is right. I actually went this route when I installed my CB. I got the RigRunner 4005 and the APO unit. I have it set at 10 minutes, which is really nice. If my car dies for some reason, I still have CB use straight off the battery. I can even flip the "override" switch and it will stay on till the battery dies.

I started with the ADD-A-CIRCUIT, but due to Toyota griping that "I added modifications to the vehicles electrical system" I moved all my accessories over to the Rigrunner. Now they cannot complain because there is a direct line coming off the battery and not tapping into their fuses.

If you look under your driver's seat, there is TONS of room. I fit the rigrunner, APO and the CB module under the seat. I used a large sheet of velcro on the floor and all the models have four corners of velcro. That way, I can easily pull stuff out and add new stuff quickly.

There is a large grommet through the firewall you can use. I used a sharp screwdriver to poke a hole in the rubber, pushed the wires through, and then sealed it with black silicone RTV. Run the wires behind the kick panel, down the step plate and under the driver's seat. Looks damn clean!

Oh, and by the way: PowerPoles rock once they are installed correctly!!! (Just make sure you get extras as I had to cut them off to fit it through the firewall -- wanted the smallest hole possible.)

EDIT: BTW: The Rigrunner makes installing this CB a piece of cake!
Cobra


I did the same thing. I put mine under the dash against the firewall up behind the gas pedal with the velcro. Did my APO under the carpet in the center console floor.

My CB main part is under the front seat, held by velcro also.
 
Just a quick note...My scangauge read 429 Horsepower the other day when I had some open road. Not sure how correct that could be, or what it's reading, but cool none-the-less.
 
Just a quick note...My scangauge read 429 Horsepower the other day when I had some open road. Not sure how correct that could be, or what it's reading, but cool none-the-less.

I easily hit 1600HP. I think it's working great! lol...

gotta call scan gauge sometime...
 
Here are some new codes found on Tundrasolutions.com:

Altitude Gauge (Feet)
TXD: 07E02133
RXF: 04610533
RXD: 2808
MTH: FEEE00016B08
NAM: Alt

Air to Fuel Ratio (Lambda)
TXD: 07E02144
RXF: 04614544
RXD: 2808
MTH: 006400800000
NAM: AFL

Air to Fuel Ratio (True Air to Fuel ratio)
TXD: 07E02144
RXF: 04614544
RXD: 2808
MTH: 05BE00800000
NAM: A/F

Atmospheric Pressure (PSI)
TXD: 07E02133
RXF: 04610533
RXD: 2808
MTH: 000A00450000
NAM: PSI

Haven't tried them, so I don't know if they will work or not, but it should...as they are the same engine.
 
Here are some new codes found on Tundrasolutions.com:

Altitude Gauge (Feet)
TXD: 07E02133
RXF: 04610533
RXD: 2808
MTH: FEEE00016B08
NAM: Alt

Air to Fuel Ratio (Lambda)
TXD: 07E02144
RXF: 04614544
RXD: 2808
MTH: 006400800000
NAM: AFL

Air to Fuel Ratio (True Air to Fuel ratio)
TXD: 07E02144
RXF: 04614544
RXD: 2808
MTH: 05BE00800000
NAM: A/F

Atmospheric Pressure (PSI)
TXD: 07E02133
RXF: 04610533
RXD: 2808
MTH: 000A00450000
NAM: PSI

Haven't tried them, so I don't know if they will work or not, but it should...as they are the same engine.

Have you had a chance to test any of these yet? I've printed them out a while ago but never got around it it.

I'll do them tonight unless you already have.
 
All I did was the Altitude. So far it seems to be somewhat working. It is realatively close. I have a 2500 mile drive coming up that should take me from 4500 ft to 500 ft. I'll be able to comment better then.

I did have a drive the other day between 3500 ft and 5500 ft and it somewhat worked. It seemed to get stuck on certain numbers, that weren't exact? Almost like it takes measurements over 10 minute period, averages them, and that is what is displayed. Going up or downhill, there were no immediate movements. Kinda disappointing, but maybe it just needs more programming.

Haven't tried the other three.
 
All I did was the Altitude. So far it seems to be somewhat working. It is realatively close. I have a 2500 mile drive coming up that should take me from 4500 ft to 500 ft. I'll be able to comment better then.

I did have a drive the other day between 3500 ft and 5500 ft and it somewhat worked. It seemed to get stuck on certain numbers, that weren't exact? Almost like it takes measurements over 10 minute period, averages them, and that is what is displayed. Going up or downhill, there were no immediate movements. Kinda disappointing, but maybe it just needs more programming.

Haven't tried the other three.

I doubt there is a real altitude probe in the vehicle. It's probably a mathematical calculation based on the AFR.
 
I doubt there is a real altitude probe in the vehicle. It's probably a mathematical calculation based on the AFR.

Yep...that is exactly what it is. There is only so much information this thing can work with.
 
Seriously? Damn.....I thought my machine could also do my laundry :)
 
I tested all of these out and they work!

There are two AFR gauges, but only one is really needed. I prefer my AFR readings in the standard way I know them as parts of air to fuel (i.e. 14.7). The other one is a Lamda reading (1 = 14.7, but the screen will usually read .99). I deleted the lamda one because it's useless to me.

Like chiymz said, altitude is not exact -- but close.
 
Looks like they still have not yet cracked the transmission temperature code for the current crop of Toyotas. There is an Xgauge code for early model Tundras but this unfortunately does not work on the LC200. :bang:

The transmission temperature display is probably the most important feature that I'd like to get out of an OBDII reader device like the ScanGauge. It's a shame Toyota have not made it easy to get to this information. :crybaby:

Knowing the transmission temperature would be really useful in a towing situation.
 
Yes
But does the new one give transmission temp yet?

Please let me know,
 
Looks like they still have not yet cracked the transmission temperature code for the current crop of Toyotas. There is an Xgauge code for early model Tundras but this unfortunately does not work on the LC200. :bang:

The transmission temperature display is probably the most important feature that I'd like to get out of an OBDII reader device like the ScanGauge. It's a shame Toyota have not made it easy to get to this information. :crybaby:

Knowing the transmission temperature would be really useful in a towing situation.
I got temp in the pan and temp in the torque converter to read correctly as my manual temp gauges in a A750 transmission in a FJ. It took me a couple weeks, but finally figured it out. It also worked on a friends A760 in his '10 tundra. So hopefully I can figure this one out.

Once I'm done wiring my airlockers and my LED fog/DRL lights in my ARB bar concoction thing, I'll start on that and will obviously share.
 
Hey all,

As requested, here are some pics of my ScanGauge II install.

If you are not familiar, you can research the ScanGauge II here.
http://www.scangauge.com/

I started with this kit from eBay which includes the ScanGauge as well as the BlendMount for mounting above your rearview mirror.
ScanGauge II AND the BlendMount CUSTOM MOUNT ScanGuage | eBay


I ran an ethernet cable from the back of the unit and pushed it up along the upper lining and the windshield. I then ran it down the A-piller, making sure to stay away from the airbag systems. Also, if you use cable ties, do not crimp against the washer fluid hose to the rear. To remove the A-piller cover, take off the 2 caps on the handle and then remove the bolts. Then pop the cover off.

I used the female-female junction and placed it in the lower A-piller next to the front right speaker where the windshield meets with the dash.

Then, starting from the ODB-II connector, route the ODB-II cable up and around the engine and gas talk release levers. If you pull the rubber molding back a bit, you can pop off that side panel where the door rests. Route the cable up and connect it to the ethernet splitter.

I had to do some bending of the BlendMount to get the unit to sit right against the rearview mirror. My problem was that I needed to bend the mirror back far enough that the mirror would be at the correct angle. Being 6" 1", this needs to be almost flush with the windshield, thus not allowing much room for the mount. The BlendMount comes with varying length posts, and I had to use the shortest one so it would allow the rearview mirror's post to lift up high.

Anyways, I bent it and it's up there and looks good.

If you have any questions, you can ask. I suck at writing this stuff down and I'm tired. :cheers:

PS. I have not played around with the XGauge commands, which I need to find time to do.

I set the color to Blue HIGH for the pics, but I usually leave it on Red LOW so it's not so bright.
View attachment 289909View attachment 289910View attachment 289911
Gday jbhorne, new to the forum. Im in brisbane Australia and looking at getting the blendmount bsg 1000 for the scanguage 2. Am i correct in assuming youre in america and have left hand drive. I've emailed blendmount to see if they post to aus which they do but said the bracket would only fit left hand drive models which seems silly to me cause im pretty sure all rearview mirrors sit near the middle of the windscreen at the top regardless of which side the driver sits. Do you think it would fit our models. The neck on the rearview looks same then just a case of running the wires which should be the same wether you run them left or right. Sorry for the long winded question . Kind regards.
 
Hi, what is your opinion, Ultragauge MX vs Sacangauge 2 ? As far as i could see both can read transmission temperature at the moment.
 

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