SBC Timing - very odd, how is this possible?

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Joined
Mar 27, 2013
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Location
Sedro Woolley, WA
This is in hard core because.... I don't really believe it myself, even though I'm the one who has done all of the verifications. I've had a lot of cars - timing is sometimes a pain, but I always get it right and figured out. I've had everything from carb'd cars, boats... up to one off hand built megasquirt EFI vehicles (ok, several of those) running extremely well.... and even one off motorswaps that I did all the wiring for. This shouldn't be my first rodeo....

In fact, it's so odd, and not possible, I'm literally just ignoring it. Curious if anyone can shed some light.

~78 350 SBC
Edelbrock intake
Stock but "rebuilt" 4B Quadrajet
All wiring is 1 off (but does have new everything - and pertaining to this thread, that includes all battery wiring, solenoids, relays, switches)
Has a newer/low mileage MSD distributor (I believe 8632 with a red coil), vacuum advance (with built in, on cap coil)
Has brand new plugs and wires


Couple weeks ago I went to time my SBC (vacuum line pulled and blocked off)- the crank mark was nowhere to be found.

Shut the engine down, thinking it must be some small mark and I would use paint (ok, shiny nail polish from the Fiance) to 'brighten' it up under the light.

Found the mark - bright as day, big cut across the balancer, and marked white.

Run truck - turn dizzy (to the point of dying both directions) and can't find the mark. Set dizzy roughly between the 2 dying points and start searching with the timing light.

The mark is pointing at about 7 o clock (towards the passenger front tire, downwards). I shut the truck down, think about it.... and verify 2 more times that's where the timing mark is and that's exactly what I'm seeing - even rotating the dizzy and watching it move, but no more than say a 30* sweep total.

Ok - so timing must be off 180.....

Research - ok, a 350 won't run with the dizzy 180 out (and I have driven it), or if it does.... it will run just *barely* (and I assume that this isn't waste spark as it isn't DLI... guess I could be wrong there).

So I then assume that the dizzy is accurate to the compression stroke, but somehow the chain was installed 180 out - which really the only issue would be the mark on the crank for timing. I check for TDC and the mark is dead across from the pointer at 180, and also dead on at 0 (I did not have the valve covers pulled).

Not a huge deal - I can make a new mark.

I pull the bib, radiator, and the belts. I get the factory mark pointing dead straight downwards (using straight edges) and use said shiny nail polish to mark both the balancer and the pointer. (In case you need to know... it's OPI and some sort of purply glitter color.... we chose OPI for it's durability... haha).

I drink a bunch of beer and re-assemble the vehicle.... go to time it....

The factory mark shows up under the pointer, and I time it.

I assume that beer was the reason I saw the factory mark... and just pretend that isn't what I saw.

Couple days later, I pull the rig out of the garage.... and go to retime it (no beer).

Sure as s*** - the mark is dead on at about 7* (vacuum line pulled). I timed it right with beer influence (doesn't surprise me, I'm oddly good at working on vehicles with "wrenching fluid").

The vehicle runs better, and temps are decreased. I drive it around the neighborhood and am happy with the results. So I know the timing is right. The carb isn't... but that's another issue.


Now for the 2nd part of this story that's odd - when I went to pull the vehicle out 2nd attempt to time - the first cranking - the starter was shut down to a hard stop.... as if there was a mis-timed backfire (it didn't back fire, just stopped the starter dead cold). When it happened I thought the ground had been loose and I lost power to the truck - nope.

2 turns of the key and it fired right up, no problems.

I would fall for the "balancer slip" idea - except that it would mean it would have to slip 2 times, at exactly 180*

The holder/bolt for the dizzy are tight, I can't turn it by hand. The dizzy isn't moving.


The only 2 things I can possibly think of are:
1) there's a problem with the dizzy.... something internally is misfiring or it's a wastespark system... somehow. Though I doubt it as, although it's about 5 years old, it probably has less than 1,000 miles on it... it was bought for this motor by the engines PO.
2) somehow the dizzy isn't meshed correctly with the crank, and somehow the dizzy has the ability to reset itself 180 out.... but that sounds like lunacy.... because it should only run if it's on the compression stroke.... and yet....
 
Spun the balancer or wrong balancer. Pull the left bank valve cover and number one spark plug. Find TDC on the compression stroke and remark the balancer. If TDC is the correct mark, then, son, you have a condition.

Coil in the cap is HEI. It can't run as a waste spark. There's no path back to the coil unless you have a two ended rotor.
 
Spun the balancer or wrong balancer. Pull the left bank valve cover and number one spark plug. Find TDC on the compression stroke and remark the balancer. If TDC is the correct mark, then, son, you have a condition.

Coil in the cap is HEI. It can't run as a waste spark. There's no path back to the coil unless you have a two ended rotor.

I never pulled the balancer - from the first timing (where the mark was 180 out) and 2 days later, then the day after..... the mark moved to the pointer. I didn't pull the cap, didn't pull the rotor, didn't pull plugs....

Like I said - first attempt it was 180 out, so I did find TDC and remarked the balancer... then went to time, and the factory mark was under the pointer.

That's what makes all of this so odd.
 
Balancer slipping, bad keyway/key.
 
Distributor connects to the cam. Cam spins half the speed of the crank. Timing mark on the balancer comes around twice per revolution of the distributor.

You have to pay attention if you are tdc on compression or exhaust strokes when you are looking at things.

As long as the distributor is lined up with the oil pump drive shaft, the distributor will seat. .....and the motor will run as long as the firing order syncs up with where the rotor is pointing.
 
They slip at 180*? Pretty much exactly? Would that be based on the keyway?

I'm literally trying to understand how it's possible, after muliplier verifications. I have no problems replacing parts when it's needed, but not when it's pseudo guessing... (fully understand it's diagnostics based on my description)
 
not surprising at all, and it's not the part that atttaches to the snout with the key in it, it's the ring that's on the outside that is attached to a rubber band that is attached to the hub - that rubber breaks down and allows the outer ring to spin on the hub.

Here is an SFI approved balancer, outside of the cover and bolts it's the same as your balaner
diesel-truck-balancer.png

it's the inertia weight that is spinning. You see the rubber on the inside? they build them like this because that ring has a nasty tendency to come off. Worse is it's not neutral balance, so it beats the snot out of your main bearings when it's off.

With all that said, take a paint marking pen and draw a line across the inertia ring and the hub - if it moves again, you'll be able to see it.
 
Next time it happens have another timing light handy. clip it on and try it to see where it fires. I've had Snap -on (old) quit flashing at correct spot. Wouldn't time right. It still flashed and adjusted. Also Had HEI years ago just start firing at incorrect time. Thought it was timing chain problem but that was ok and didn't trouble shoot dist-just changed with known good one and was fine. Be sure you are on correct wire (beer)
 
Next time it happens have another timing light handy. clip it on and try it to see where it fires. I've had Snap -on (old) quit flashing at correct spot. Wouldn't time right. It still flashed and adjusted. Also Had HEI years ago just start firing at incorrect time. Thought it was timing chain problem but that was ok and didn't trouble shoot dist-just changed with known good one and was fine. Be sure you are on correct wire (beer)

depending on the ignition system, some timing lights don't play nice with them (think multi-strike systems like MSD). I actually have two, a dialback (which doesn't work on some multistrike systems), and a way-old-school $9.95 light that works on everything.
 
A possible answer is that the first time you clipped the light to the wrong wire. If you happened to get #6 rather than #1, that would through you out 180*.
 
No, that isn't it. I always put the pickup on near the plug.

I haven't started it in a while since I've been working on cutting out rear quarter rust... and had the angle grinder die on me....

I'm pretty sure I put marks on and all over the crank with a highlighter.... I haven't gone to hunt them down... but I have a hard time believing the balancer is rotating exactly 180 out, not once, but at least twice.

I have no problems replacing the pulley/balancer... but I'm also not the kind of guy who replaces parts 'just because'. Still a possibility, though.
 
... but I have a hard time believing the balancer is rotating exactly 180 out, not once, but at least twice.

What if you got the other side of this problem and discovered you were the first?
 
Any progress? I had an issue where I thought the balancer had spun. I used a TDC tool in the number 1 plug hole then rotated the engine each direction and put a mark on the balancer at the TDC pointer. Halfway in between the two marks is TDC. Mine was right on the factory mark. Could your timing light be failing?
 
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