SBC Initial Valve Adjustment

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Jun 26, 2006
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Hey guys, need some help. I have done the initial valve adjustment on 350 (still on stand). Went 1/2 turn past 0 lash. I noticed that several of the push rods on right bank seemed tighter at 1/2 turn.

However, exhaust vavle #7, anything past 0 lash (even 1/8 turn) just seems to completely lock down push rod. All the other push rods even at 1/2 turn, can still be turn with some resistance.

Anybody got an idea what's up with this one valve and what is best thing to do?

Thanks..
 
on hydraulic lifters... its common practice to prime them before install........
 
I did prime each of them before installation. Possible that that particular one did't prime as well as it should have. Is what I described a specific symptom of a lifter that wasn't primed or insuffciently primed?

Thanks.
 
Valve Adjusting Procedure Enclosed

Do you have the intake on the engine? It is about 100 times easier to adjust the valves with it off it you are not use to doing the adjustment. You can watch the lifter plunger this way. Your half of turn is correct from the point where the pushrod to rocker first contacts completely. Note; if a lifter is not full of oil (I actually prefer to do it this way) it is very easy to collapse it. You could be running it to the bottom then going 1/2 of a turn. (this would be a bad deal with a starter attached) If they are really full of oil they will sometimes actually open the valve when you do the 1/2 turn. And your pushrod being tight is not an issue. Be careful if this is a large camshaft profile. Your valves could contact the piston.

You did not state how you were turning the engine to adjust the valves. Let me pass along an easy way, to me at least it is.

ADJUSTING THE INTAKE VALVES:
Start with the #1 cylinder. Turn the engine clockwise until you first see the "EXHAUST" pushrod "STARTING" to move "UP". Here is the location you want to adjust the intake rocker arm. (note; you must adjust all rockers at their proper rotation of the engine) Now that you have adjusted the #1 intake. We will now do this same process right down the engine firing order. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Turn clockwise during the hole process.

ADJUSTING THE EXHAUST VALVES:
Lets go back to #1 cylinder just to make it simple. Start turning clockwise from the last location. Now you are watching your #1 intake rocker arm(you adjusted already). Turn the engine clockwise until you see the "INTAKE" rocker completely open and then start to close. Just before the intake valve completely closes you stop and now adjust the exhaust rocker arm. Now that you have adjusted the #1 exhaust. We will now do this same process right down the engine firing order. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Turn clockwise during the hole process.
Once you finish your #2 cylinder you are ready to go.
(this works on solid type lifters as well if you ever had a race engine)

Let me know if you have any questions about what I may have said here. I would be glad to clarify anything.

:John
 
Why not put the sbc on TDC and adjust Intake valves 1,5,7,2 & exhaust valves
1,3,4,8 then rotate engine 360* and adjust Intake valves 3,4,6,8 and exhaust
valves 5,7,2,6. Done!!

I ussually like to adjust 1 turn after valve lash. 1 turn or less it really doesn't matter, just do the same for all.
 
Why not put the sbc on TDC and adjust Intake valves 1,5,7,2 & exhaust valves
1,3,4,8 then rotate engine 360* and adjust Intake valves 3,4,6,8 and exhaust
valves 5,7,2,6. Done!!

I ussually like to adjust 1 turn after valve lash. 1 turn or less it really doesn't matter, just do the same for all.

I do not want to come across wrong here. But what you said would not be correct. If you do adjust your valves like that it explains why you have to turn them down 1 full turn. What you then really have then is some valve lifters set at 1 turn down and others only at about 1/8 turn down{if your lucky}. Of course you may not know this with a stock cam and hydro lifters. If you want the most out of your engine you need to adjust the valves correctly.

You need to adjust valve lash with the lifter on the heel of the cam lobe.

note:There is a way to do adjust 2 cylinders every 90 degrees, but it is more complicated for people who do not build engines regularly it is no real benefit.

I guess it is up to how good you want it to be?

: John
 
I do not want to come across wrong here. But what you said would not be correct. If you do adjust your valves like that it explains why you have to turn them down 1 full turn. What you then really have then is some valve lifters set at 1 turn down and others only at about 1/8 turn down{if your lucky}. Of course you may not know this with a stock cam and hydro lifters. If you want the most out of your engine you need to adjust the valves correctly.

You need to adjust valve lash with the lifter on the heel of the cam lobe.

note:There is a way to do adjust 2 cylinders every 90 degrees, but it is more complicated for people who do not build engines regularly it is no real benefit.

I guess it is up to how good you want it to be?

: John

That's odd? The 1st couple times I adjusted valves like I described, I would then double ck each valve adjustment with the engine running and they all l required 1 turn back to get the valve to lash. When I get a chance, I'll have to try your way and see if it makes a difference.

Hows the factory do it?
 
I do not know how the factory does it? I have built race engines for over 20 years. Everything from Nascar engines to Drag Harley engines. This is my experience on these type of things. Let me know if you give this adjustment type a try. It is very easy and very accurate.

Have a good Weekend! : John
 

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