Amazing and alot of patience, keep it up.
Saving the silver 70...
- Thread starter MrMoMo
- Start date
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MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #63
Thanks guys - not sure if it's dedication or just insanity...
Got started on the back corner this morning - though it was a late start so I didn't get far.
Got all the way down through the onion layers, removed all the rust with a combination of wire wheels, wire brushes, and chemical stripping where those wouldn't reach. This side was no where near as bad as the other side, but I made the base layer replacement piece just as big.
Ground it down and painted it, waiting for it to dry to fit the next layer...
Got started on the back corner this morning - though it was a late start so I didn't get far.
Got all the way down through the onion layers, removed all the rust with a combination of wire wheels, wire brushes, and chemical stripping where those wouldn't reach. This side was no where near as bad as the other side, but I made the base layer replacement piece just as big.
Ground it down and painted it, waiting for it to dry to fit the next layer...
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MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #64
Well, last weekend ended when I ran out of welding gas... That sucked. The welding supply shop I get my gas from is only open Monday to Friday, so I always run out on the weekend (of course). There is one place in town that sometimes has bottles that I can exchange mine with on a Saturday, but they didn't have stock. So, with that my Saturday afternoon was spent cleaning up the shop (much needed, but needs much more!) and Sunday was spent watching a whole bunch of Top Gear and Roadkill episodes with my son. (And it was freezing ass cold outside so I was fine with that!). Got gas, and kept going today, got that back corner finished up, but had to get the 80 back in the shop for an oil change and a few other distractions, so didn't get all that much welding done.
Next layer of the onion skin... (Last weekend, just didn't post it then!)
And layer 3, which ties back into the side. As you can see, I did some seam sealing before I finished this part, and the top of layer 4 is welded back in. This part was good metal, but had to be removed to get me access to the layer below.
And now, the final layer. I made this from the same template I used to make the other side, so hopefully it's the same shape!!! I did a little more "weld filling" after this pic, to get it a little smoother before painting it.
Only about 2 hours today, which I believe brings my total up to 90 hours!! (Gulp) probably another 30+ to go, but I am getting closer!
Proof that I wasn't just goofing off in the afternoon...
Oil changed, fluids checked, rear DS window seems to not go down on its own now that I have removed it's switch... So my power locks, sunroof and windows work again! - Now if only I could sort out the damn dome lights in the 80!
Next layer of the onion skin... (Last weekend, just didn't post it then!)
And layer 3, which ties back into the side. As you can see, I did some seam sealing before I finished this part, and the top of layer 4 is welded back in. This part was good metal, but had to be removed to get me access to the layer below.
And now, the final layer. I made this from the same template I used to make the other side, so hopefully it's the same shape!!! I did a little more "weld filling" after this pic, to get it a little smoother before painting it.
Only about 2 hours today, which I believe brings my total up to 90 hours!! (Gulp) probably another 30+ to go, but I am getting closer!
Proof that I wasn't just goofing off in the afternoon...
Oil changed, fluids checked, rear DS window seems to not go down on its own now that I have removed it's switch... So my power locks, sunroof and windows work again! - Now if only I could sort out the damn dome lights in the 80!
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #67
IH8WINTER....
Well it's been far too long and I've done far too little - I blame the cold and a non-heated shop. Today it warmed up above freezing and I managed to convince myself to just get a little bit done. With a little bit done, I'm a little bit closer to getting back to working on finishing my 40, which means I'm a little bit closer to starting the 45...... That's a long tunnel with a pinpoint of light at the end....
So, today I attacked the fuel filler. Of all the parts I've had to fix, this one has been the worst. If there was one part on the truck that I have had to make that I could buy, this would be it - but I don't think it's a part I can buy!
So, here is the nastyness. This part was previously damaged, and repaired, and damaged again by corrosion behind the bondo, so it's in incrediy rough shape.
After blasting, I actually used my air saw as a seam sealer/bondo remover - some of that stuff was stuck HARD!!! Worked great though, and I managed to get it cleaned up satisfactorily.
Next I cut away the rot - or what was left of it - in the lower forward corner. Again I made a strip, bent it in my bender and cut slits to bend a radius. (Too tight and not enough meat for the stretcher) I replaced the outer lip, on the forward lower, and lower forward edge (hope that makes sense!) I always left a piece of the original to tie to so that I had a reference point.
I also cut away the lip and the flat of the lower rear corner. Welded a new flat in (above pic, under my thumb) before replacing the lip. (Pic below) Next I removed the lip from the entire back edge, upper rear corner and half of the top. Looks a little wonky in the pic below.
Once those welds were all done, I trimmed the excess "lip" off. Now, keep in mind what I said earlier about this being a pain in the ass part to build. I fully understand why the previous "repair" used a filler, and though I did what I could to smooth the welds out, it's nearly impossible with the tooling that I have, to get this 100% metal (without spending an even more rediculous amount of time on it!) the shape is about 95% there - but it will need some filler! (I promise to use the good stuff!
Next I hit it with a coat of galvanizing paint to help protect the back side where paint won't reach it after assembly, and tacked it in place on the truck.(note the offset that I cut when I removed it for easy re-installation)
I marked out where the edges are, how far down the bottom is, and where the corners are so I can transfer that into the quarter panel to cut out.
Still have a bit of work on the bottom rear corner of the wheel well, and a major fix in the front before I can put the quarter panel on.
5 hours today, total now up to 95!!!
For those who are also trapped indoors on these cold winter nights, looking for some entertainment, I highly reccomend watching the X-overland series, cool stuff.
www.xoverland.com
Props to @xoverland and @cruiseroutfit and everyone else involved in the production.
We just finished watching it, and - seems that the plans now are to sell our 5th wheel and load up the 70 when it's done! (Or whichever of the cruisers is available at the time). The eventual plan for the 45 was/is an overland rig. Have to love it when she says stuff like "probably better to spend a bit more money and buy the ARB, it looks like better quality."
So, now on the hunt for a RTT, and need to build a roof rack for the 70 that can hold the RTT and a Foxwing awning, a drawer "kitchen" for the back, and beef up the suspension!
Looks like this "saving" thread might just turn into a build thread by the time it's done!!
Well it's been far too long and I've done far too little - I blame the cold and a non-heated shop. Today it warmed up above freezing and I managed to convince myself to just get a little bit done. With a little bit done, I'm a little bit closer to getting back to working on finishing my 40, which means I'm a little bit closer to starting the 45...... That's a long tunnel with a pinpoint of light at the end....
So, today I attacked the fuel filler. Of all the parts I've had to fix, this one has been the worst. If there was one part on the truck that I have had to make that I could buy, this would be it - but I don't think it's a part I can buy!
So, here is the nastyness. This part was previously damaged, and repaired, and damaged again by corrosion behind the bondo, so it's in incrediy rough shape.
After blasting, I actually used my air saw as a seam sealer/bondo remover - some of that stuff was stuck HARD!!! Worked great though, and I managed to get it cleaned up satisfactorily.
Next I cut away the rot - or what was left of it - in the lower forward corner. Again I made a strip, bent it in my bender and cut slits to bend a radius. (Too tight and not enough meat for the stretcher) I replaced the outer lip, on the forward lower, and lower forward edge (hope that makes sense!) I always left a piece of the original to tie to so that I had a reference point.
I also cut away the lip and the flat of the lower rear corner. Welded a new flat in (above pic, under my thumb) before replacing the lip. (Pic below) Next I removed the lip from the entire back edge, upper rear corner and half of the top. Looks a little wonky in the pic below.
Once those welds were all done, I trimmed the excess "lip" off. Now, keep in mind what I said earlier about this being a pain in the ass part to build. I fully understand why the previous "repair" used a filler, and though I did what I could to smooth the welds out, it's nearly impossible with the tooling that I have, to get this 100% metal (without spending an even more rediculous amount of time on it!) the shape is about 95% there - but it will need some filler! (I promise to use the good stuff!
Next I hit it with a coat of galvanizing paint to help protect the back side where paint won't reach it after assembly, and tacked it in place on the truck.(note the offset that I cut when I removed it for easy re-installation)
I marked out where the edges are, how far down the bottom is, and where the corners are so I can transfer that into the quarter panel to cut out.
Still have a bit of work on the bottom rear corner of the wheel well, and a major fix in the front before I can put the quarter panel on.
5 hours today, total now up to 95!!!
For those who are also trapped indoors on these cold winter nights, looking for some entertainment, I highly reccomend watching the X-overland series, cool stuff.
www.xoverland.com
Props to @xoverland and @cruiseroutfit and everyone else involved in the production.
We just finished watching it, and - seems that the plans now are to sell our 5th wheel and load up the 70 when it's done! (Or whichever of the cruisers is available at the time). The eventual plan for the 45 was/is an overland rig. Have to love it when she says stuff like "probably better to spend a bit more money and buy the ARB, it looks like better quality."
So, now on the hunt for a RTT, and need to build a roof rack for the 70 that can hold the RTT and a Foxwing awning, a drawer "kitchen" for the back, and beef up the suspension!
Looks like this "saving" thread might just turn into a build thread by the time it's done!!
Thanks for watching XO and great build 
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #69
Rock-er On....
So in order to get the quarter panel on I have to finish the front edge, at the back of the front door. In order to finish that, I have to fix the rocker. In order to fix the rocker, I have to pull the step.... "
Here is the corner I am referring to:
So off came the step, and to my surprise, without any kind of fight! The bolts felt like the were put in yesterday, not 30 years ago!! Amazing! The inside of the rocker had a bunch of mouse nest in the back, which I'm sure is what was holding the moisture, causing it to rot from the inside out. (The same thing happened on my 40 inside the main cross beam). I removed the rubber plugs in the bottom of the front of the rocker and blew compressed air in to get all the fluff out.
Once it was all out I got a good look inside what was left - and surprisingly the front 3/4 is solid, still has the factory paint (probably why the bolts came out so easily).
Looking up and forward into the gaping hole:
So next I measured up and bent two pieces, the first was basically the lower half of the rocker, and the second was the full Monty. This is by far the most complex piece I have ever made on my little home made bender. The only reason I did this in two pieces is the capacity of the bender wouldn't allow me to do it in one. With the last bend (the top return) I actually had to get creative with the bender - as the part of it wanted to be under the support - which obviously doesn't work.
Here is the profile of the full panel bend:
With a few clean straight cuts with the grinder wheel, I fit the two pieces in place. Clamped the bottom edge and tacked the middle seam. I didn't do any welding to the truck as I am going to blast the inside of the rocker tomorrow to see how much of the back side needs to be replaced (and so I can paint it) before I weld the outer on. The sad part of all this work, is that it ends up inside the body, so it will never be seen again :c(
Below is a shot from a different angle to see the full profile. The back half isn't quite lined up properly in this picture as it only has the one clamp holding it in place at the front. When pushed into place the top lines up perfectly as well as the edge of the top on the forward part. Need to make a slight trim on the inner vertical lip to stop the overlap.
Will need to fix a few small holes above the front half, but this takes care of the majority of the outer rocker.
Originally the rockers were not part of my "get it done now" plan, but since it seems I'm going to take all winter to get this done, and with the rockers done, the whole body tub is finished - I can't not do them. That will allow me to paint the tub from the front of the rockers to the back door opening. Everything else left is removable and can be worked on and painted one piece at a time.
Spent the morning working on her golf, oil change, new shift boot and replacement drivers side mirror - so only got the afternoon on the Cruiser. 4.5 Hours... Puts me at 99.5 - going to break 100 tomorrow!!!
So in order to get the quarter panel on I have to finish the front edge, at the back of the front door. In order to finish that, I have to fix the rocker. In order to fix the rocker, I have to pull the step.... "
Here is the corner I am referring to:
So off came the step, and to my surprise, without any kind of fight! The bolts felt like the were put in yesterday, not 30 years ago!! Amazing! The inside of the rocker had a bunch of mouse nest in the back, which I'm sure is what was holding the moisture, causing it to rot from the inside out. (The same thing happened on my 40 inside the main cross beam). I removed the rubber plugs in the bottom of the front of the rocker and blew compressed air in to get all the fluff out.
Once it was all out I got a good look inside what was left - and surprisingly the front 3/4 is solid, still has the factory paint (probably why the bolts came out so easily).
Looking up and forward into the gaping hole:
So next I measured up and bent two pieces, the first was basically the lower half of the rocker, and the second was the full Monty. This is by far the most complex piece I have ever made on my little home made bender. The only reason I did this in two pieces is the capacity of the bender wouldn't allow me to do it in one. With the last bend (the top return) I actually had to get creative with the bender - as the part of it wanted to be under the support - which obviously doesn't work.
Here is the profile of the full panel bend:
With a few clean straight cuts with the grinder wheel, I fit the two pieces in place. Clamped the bottom edge and tacked the middle seam. I didn't do any welding to the truck as I am going to blast the inside of the rocker tomorrow to see how much of the back side needs to be replaced (and so I can paint it) before I weld the outer on. The sad part of all this work, is that it ends up inside the body, so it will never be seen again :c(
Below is a shot from a different angle to see the full profile. The back half isn't quite lined up properly in this picture as it only has the one clamp holding it in place at the front. When pushed into place the top lines up perfectly as well as the edge of the top on the forward part. Need to make a slight trim on the inner vertical lip to stop the overlap.
Will need to fix a few small holes above the front half, but this takes care of the majority of the outer rocker.
Originally the rockers were not part of my "get it done now" plan, but since it seems I'm going to take all winter to get this done, and with the rockers done, the whole body tub is finished - I can't not do them. That will allow me to paint the tub from the front of the rockers to the back door opening. Everything else left is removable and can be worked on and painted one piece at a time.
Spent the morning working on her golf, oil change, new shift boot and replacement drivers side mirror - so only got the afternoon on the Cruiser. 4.5 Hours... Puts me at 99.5 - going to break 100 tomorrow!!!
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MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #70
Superweld Sunday!
Have I mentioned how much I hate sandblasting? But, at least it really does show what's going on. Got the rocker blasted inside and out, and made my cut line 50mm up from the bottom.
Next I bent a strip to match the piece I cut out, and slit the bottom of each "indent", put a double bend in it to bring it flush with the bottom edge. Test fit - not perfect but close enough for where it's going...
Welded it up and ground down the back side (the part that will be exposed on the inner edge once complete). Inside welds didn't get ground down since no one will ever see them after its closed up.
At this point, it became obvious that the seatbelt bolt bracket was going to have to come out to replace the metal behind it, as well as make a repair to it.
This wasn't really overly concerning, as all the metal behind it would have to be coming out anyway - the last "hole in the floor" patch is a major one, and the floor replacement ties directly into the skin behind the seatbelt bracket.
Stand by for part 2.
Have I mentioned how much I hate sandblasting? But, at least it really does show what's going on. Got the rocker blasted inside and out, and made my cut line 50mm up from the bottom.
Next I bent a strip to match the piece I cut out, and slit the bottom of each "indent", put a double bend in it to bring it flush with the bottom edge. Test fit - not perfect but close enough for where it's going...
Welded it up and ground down the back side (the part that will be exposed on the inner edge once complete). Inside welds didn't get ground down since no one will ever see them after its closed up.
At this point, it became obvious that the seatbelt bolt bracket was going to have to come out to replace the metal behind it, as well as make a repair to it.
This wasn't really overly concerning, as all the metal behind it would have to be coming out anyway - the last "hole in the floor" patch is a major one, and the floor replacement ties directly into the skin behind the seatbelt bracket.
Stand by for part 2.
Great documentation.
You are doing all of the tedious stuff and doing it as a craftsman. Small piece at a time.
You are doing all of the tedious stuff and doing it as a craftsman. Small piece at a time.
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #72
So with the bottom strip welded in I measured the seat belt hole to a point where I could replicate it, then cut the inner skin off, and a section of the bad part of the floor out -not all of it- just enough that I have something workable when I get this section done and move on to the floor repair.
Next I welded the first piece of floor patch in - much easier to do it while it's exposed like this, especially since I could grind it down flush for the outer skin to fit against it nicely.
Next was cutting and fitting the inner skin patch, the part the seatbelt bracket mounts to. This has a single bend in it - to transfer from the vertical of the rocker panel to the outward angle where the seatbelt mounts. I bent a random angle into the piece then made it a slightly rounder radius using my anvil. Managed to get the engle dead on - which I realized after I could have used the seatbelt bolt bracket as a template... (Duh) Welded that in, ground it down, located the hole, primed it...
(Shadows playing tricks)
(Note I am leaving all the back edges long so I can trim to match the wheel well when I replace that part.)
So next I drilled out the original spot weld locations on the seatbelt bolt bracket, and bolted it and clamped it in place before plug welding. (Again I didn't bother grinding down the weld in the inside of the bracket as it will be inside the rocker) The patch in the seat belt bolt bracket is welded both sides and ground flush on the back.
And once that was solid, it was time to put the outer rocker in place!!! (Finally!!) definitely not finished blending it along the lip, and really probably should have taken the new part about 5mm higher - but with a little more work it will finish out ok. Still have to finish the front edge seam, and drill and plug weld the bottom where the inner and outer meet - then I will make the part to join the rocker with the bottom of the B post, and the front edge of the wheel well.
7 hours today putting me at 106.5hrs total - though a lot of this time seems to be simply staring and thinking, either A) how am I going to do this, or B) what was here before, or C) why did I get myself into this, or D) I'm glad I'm not paying someone to do this, or E) sure would be cool if someone was paying me to do this!
Next I welded the first piece of floor patch in - much easier to do it while it's exposed like this, especially since I could grind it down flush for the outer skin to fit against it nicely.
Next was cutting and fitting the inner skin patch, the part the seatbelt bracket mounts to. This has a single bend in it - to transfer from the vertical of the rocker panel to the outward angle where the seatbelt mounts. I bent a random angle into the piece then made it a slightly rounder radius using my anvil. Managed to get the engle dead on - which I realized after I could have used the seatbelt bolt bracket as a template... (Duh) Welded that in, ground it down, located the hole, primed it...
(Shadows playing tricks)
(Note I am leaving all the back edges long so I can trim to match the wheel well when I replace that part.)
So next I drilled out the original spot weld locations on the seatbelt bolt bracket, and bolted it and clamped it in place before plug welding. (Again I didn't bother grinding down the weld in the inside of the bracket as it will be inside the rocker) The patch in the seat belt bolt bracket is welded both sides and ground flush on the back.
And once that was solid, it was time to put the outer rocker in place!!! (Finally!!) definitely not finished blending it along the lip, and really probably should have taken the new part about 5mm higher - but with a little more work it will finish out ok. Still have to finish the front edge seam, and drill and plug weld the bottom where the inner and outer meet - then I will make the part to join the rocker with the bottom of the B post, and the front edge of the wheel well.
7 hours today putting me at 106.5hrs total - though a lot of this time seems to be simply staring and thinking, either A) how am I going to do this, or B) what was here before, or C) why did I get myself into this, or D) I'm glad I'm not paying someone to do this, or E) sure would be cool if someone was paying me to do this!
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #73
Thanks Onur, I wish I could have started out with a more complete truck like yours! At least this way, those of you who have solid bodied trucks can have a peek at how the layers all fit together, without having to fight the curiosity of "I wonder what it's like inside there". 
Going through this really makes me wish I had kept my BJ60 and put the work into fixing it.
Going through this really makes me wish I had kept my BJ60 and put the work into fixing it.
- Joined
- May 21, 2009
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Gotta say that is some great work !
You don't know Mike T or Steve M of UCC do you ?
I wheeled with these guys back in 95
You don't know Mike T or Steve M of UCC do you ?
I wheeled with these guys back in 95
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #75
Thanks Albert Mac - I don't recall them specifically, but I wheeled with a few guys from UCLC about 4-5 years ago, very memorable trips with the likes of - Wayne @crushers Matt @CDN_Cruiser , Simon @Lost , Jerome @romey Mike @moosecruiser , Brad @LandBlazer , Nicholas @Rig of Mortis and a few others! One of these days I'll finish putting a cruiser back together and be able to do a trail run again!!
Fun times and great memories linked here! (Unfortunately a lot of pictures not linking in those threads anymore)
UCLC Spring Run
june2009 uclc run pics
(Jeez, with that edit I realize it's almost 7 years ago!! Sheesh!)
But my favourite memory of all was Wayne showing us how to get out of the hole...
Fun times and great memories linked here! (Unfortunately a lot of pictures not linking in those threads anymore)
UCLC Spring Run
june2009 uclc run pics
(Jeez, with that edit I realize it's almost 7 years ago!! Sheesh!)
But my favourite memory of all was Wayne showing us how to get out of the hole...
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NM Frontier
SILVER Star
Wow you a good! Thanks for doing this, very inspiring! I love the metal work, what are you using for the bending and forming?
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #78
Thanks NM Frontier - it's really all just learning as I go - it's actually not that hard at all, just careful measuring, and sometimes knowing when to start again when the part just isn't quite right! (That's why I often start with cereal box cardboard)
I made my own really basic bender - and it's been amazing. I posted details in my "3B swap and a frame off thread" - link in my signature below - I believe around page 10 shows how I made it. Just a few pieces of scrap steel that fits into a little hydraulic press.
I also have a set of shrinker/stretchers from Eastwood - to make curved pieces out of angled pieces - some more of that to cove very shortly.
Other than that, I occasionally beat pieces on my anvil, and I generally use 4" flap disc sanding pads either on my grinder, or 2" ones on my die grinder, to smooth out the welds.
I made my own really basic bender - and it's been amazing. I posted details in my "3B swap and a frame off thread" - link in my signature below - I believe around page 10 shows how I made it. Just a few pieces of scrap steel that fits into a little hydraulic press.
I also have a set of shrinker/stretchers from Eastwood - to make curved pieces out of angled pieces - some more of that to cove very shortly.
Other than that, I occasionally beat pieces on my anvil, and I generally use 4" flap disc sanding pads either on my grinder, or 2" ones on my die grinder, to smooth out the welds.
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #79
No progress on the 70 bodywork to report this weekend, but did manage to get some snow "run" in on the 80. Doesn't look like much here (it's not) but there are 3 hills on the way in and the way out that I would not attempt with any more than this dusting! (Cottage road) no-one drives this road past half way in the winter due to these hills - however I have now made history... Valentine's Day drive into the cottage ;cD
In other news, the other 70 thread has started - "gearing up on a budget" (link in signature) Roof rack and RTT on site and mostly installed. Winch is on site, but not yet installed. I am going to leave the details of that side of things out of this thread - and keep this one for the bodywork, but a peek here - for those who don't want to read about gearing the 70 up for camping and hopefully eventual overland travel.
It is so, so, so nice having a shop - even without heat. Yesterday and Friday it was -30C (-40C with windchill), and there is no way I would have been dong ANYTHING like this without my shop! (Even if I complain about it being -5 inside!)
In other news, the other 70 thread has started - "gearing up on a budget" (link in signature) Roof rack and RTT on site and mostly installed. Winch is on site, but not yet installed. I am going to leave the details of that side of things out of this thread - and keep this one for the bodywork, but a peek here - for those who don't want to read about gearing the 70 up for camping and hopefully eventual overland travel.
It is so, so, so nice having a shop - even without heat. Yesterday and Friday it was -30C (-40C with windchill), and there is no way I would have been dong ANYTHING like this without my shop! (Even if I complain about it being -5 inside!)
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #80
Ok, a good 7 hours in today and it's starting to feel like I'm getting somewhat close to the end (even though I'm not!
Started out by finishing up the outer rocker - and to finish it I actually cut another piece out of it.... The part that I had questioned previously, just above the lip - the metal was just too thin.
Once that was done I blew the rocker out with compressed air, then plug welded the inner and outer together, trying to follow the original spot weld spacing.
Next I addressed the rotted off end of the body mounting channel, where it ties into the rocker. I cut the rusted portion off, back far enough that I could get a straight line cut, be out of the rust, but still be able to fit the welder in.
(Shown before cut!)
(Kind of hard to see in the photo)
Not having much to go by (the drivers side is shot as well) I just came up with the best fitting and logical shape I could - I'm confident it will do the job, and guaranteed that it will do more than the nothing that was there before!!!
Here is what I came up with, blasted, ready for paint.
Once that was made, I painted the backside, and the face of the rocker that would be covered by it, before plug welding the flanges through the holes, and butt welded the seams. I can't get in here to grind the welds down - even with my 2" flap wheels - but most people won't see here anyway. I do plan on pulling the body off the frame eventually, so I can get it then, as it's just the body mount and frame in the way.
This of course will get seam sealed as well, so should be much better protected than the original, and will get painted inside as well, accessed through the body mount hole on the top.
Started out by finishing up the outer rocker - and to finish it I actually cut another piece out of it.... The part that I had questioned previously, just above the lip - the metal was just too thin.
Once that was done I blew the rocker out with compressed air, then plug welded the inner and outer together, trying to follow the original spot weld spacing.
Next I addressed the rotted off end of the body mounting channel, where it ties into the rocker. I cut the rusted portion off, back far enough that I could get a straight line cut, be out of the rust, but still be able to fit the welder in.
(Shown before cut!)
(Kind of hard to see in the photo)
Not having much to go by (the drivers side is shot as well) I just came up with the best fitting and logical shape I could - I'm confident it will do the job, and guaranteed that it will do more than the nothing that was there before!!!
Here is what I came up with, blasted, ready for paint.
Once that was made, I painted the backside, and the face of the rocker that would be covered by it, before plug welding the flanges through the holes, and butt welded the seams. I can't get in here to grind the welds down - even with my 2" flap wheels - but most people won't see here anyway. I do plan on pulling the body off the frame eventually, so I can get it then, as it's just the body mount and frame in the way.
This of course will get seam sealed as well, so should be much better protected than the original, and will get painted inside as well, accessed through the body mount hole on the top.
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