Satellite Radio Antenna Replaced (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 11, 2020
Threads
27
Messages
453
Location
Franklin, TN
So, I got tired of sketchy XM reception while driving around in wide-open spaces and decided to replace the antenna. The conversation about "why Satellite versus cellular/XM app?" has already been had and there are pros and cons for each that don't need to be re-hashed here. My challenge parsing through the sparse information that I could derive from threads on here, wiring diagrams, ClubLexus, etc.. I even looked at threads on the decidedly LC/LX antithesis.....PriusChat.com as well as some Tacoma forums. I could find no good step-by-step solution to my problem. Here are some wild goose chases I went down:
  1. There is a lot of chatter about using some special connector called a FAKRA connector. That MAY work for some model years but it will NOT work for a 2011.
  2. Some folks say you need to connect to the module under the front passenger seat. Once again, that is NOT the case for 2011. The module under there is for multimedia but not for XM as far as I can tell.
  3. Others have said that it connects directly to the head unit. I believe that may be a semantics issue, particularly since the entertainment center is actually comprised of 2 separate units in the dash. More on this later.
  4. I've read threads saying the Navigation and the XM radio use the same antenna in the shark fin. This is NOT true for 2008 to at least 2011. There is a separate Navigation antenna at the front of the dash. The shark fin antenna is called a "telephone antenna" in the FSM.
    1. 1621869026419.png
What I found on my 2011 LX via testing and some error is that the XM antenna plugs directly into lower section of the head unit. This is the portion that contains the CD player:

1621869176156.png


It is the blue port in the middle:
1621869279034.png


Here's the plug itself:

1621869340863.png


As you can see, the plug is rectangular as is the pin. FAKRA connectors are round and will NOT fit.

I had no ideal where to find a plug like that other than buying the whole antenna cord sub-assembly for who knows how much. So, I went all-in and cut the OEM plug off and spliced it to an SiriusXM antenna from Amazon that costs $20. Works like a charm! I haven't driven around a lot in some areas that are usually sketchy reception but will soon and will update back here what my experience has been.

By the way, the Sirius XM installation guide explictily says "do NOT install under or near a roof rack". So, mounting it in the rear, near the factory antenna, which is practically under the rear crossbar of my Prinsu rack was a no-go. I've place it in the center of my roof, right behind the windshield. My only real concern there is if a low hanging tree branch might grab it but I'm not overly worried about it.
 
So, I went all-in and cut the OEM plug off and spliced it to an SiriusXM antenna from Amazon that costs $20.

Nice work, smart workaround. So fair to assume it was a 1 for 1 match on the wiring? Pretty self-explanatory in terms of which wires go where in the splicing?
 
Now, the only question I have for folks is about one of my errors. In my haste to solve the problem, I cut another wire and I can't figure out what it was supposed to do. Nothing seems to be amiss while driving or listening to audio. Perhaps you guys know what this port on the back of the upper portion of the head unit is for:

1621869943349.png


It was a coaxial wire, very similar to the XM antenna. It is not the navigation antenna because that is still working fine.

Also, FYI, the only plugs into this portion of the unit that appear to have anything to do with the audio are the two big white ones on the right of the picture above. I unplugged everything else and the audio continued to play with no issues. I'm assuming it other info like HVAC and perhaps the rear entertainment system.

I'm curious if it's the "mayday" button or possibly the "information" connection where you can get info like weather or something.
 
Nice work, smart workaround. So fair to assume it was a 1 for 1 match on the wiring? Pretty self-explanatory in terms of which wires go where in the splicing?

Thanks you sir. The XM wire is coaxial so it's not quite as straightforward as something like speaker wire. Do-able obviously but definitely more involved.
 
I don’t think you mentioned it anywhere, but could that extra wire you cut be for AM/FM radio?
 
I don’t think you mentioned it anywhere, but could that extra wire you cut be for AM/FM radio?

Not 100% sure but I don't think it is based solely on the fact that I'm still getting FM stations pretty clearly.
 
Drove around a bit and one thing I did notice that I think is different is that the clock did not automatically set itself. I did not test this before hand but I've disconnected my battery plenty of times and have never had to set the clock. However, this time, I did have to set the clock manually. That being said, it might be related to pulling the entire head unit out and unplugging it versus just disconnecting the main battery.

Can someone verify that the clock should set itself to the correct time automatically? If so, I can verify whether just disconnecting the battery or disconnecting the head unit has any effect or if it truly was the wire that I cut that was connecting to a server somewhere to set the time plus whatever other information that might have been transmitted via that wire.
 
Drove around a bit and one thing I did notice that I think is different is that the clock did not automatically set itself. I did not test this before hand but I've disconnected my battery plenty of times and have never had to set the clock. However, this time, I did have to set the clock manually. That being said, it might be related to pulling the entire head unit out and unplugging it versus just disconnecting the main battery.

Can someone verify that the clock should set itself to the correct time automatically? If so, I can verify whether just disconnecting the battery or disconnecting the head unit has any effect or if it truly was the wire that I cut that was connecting to a server somewhere to set the time plus whatever other information that might have been transmitted via that wire.

I would expect the clock to get its time from the Nav/GPS, but in my experience this isn't immediate. Do your hazards still work? Alternately, if NAV is working, I think the most likely scenario is that the light blue plug is related to rear AV inputs? Pretty sure the AM/FM is the rectangular plug with the two circular connections inside it.
 
Can someone verify that the clock should set itself to the correct time automatically?

I haven't pulled my dash that far apart yet, but I've disconnected the battery many times and the clock always sets itself when I reconnect. It can take a few minutes, but I just ignore it and eventually it is correct.

Does this system use a dual "diversity" antenna for the FM? Maybe that odd connector is for the second antenna?
 
I would expect the clock to get its time from the Nav/GPS, but in my experience this isn't immediate. Do your hazards still work? Alternately, if NAV is working, I think the most likely scenario is that the light blue plug is related to rear AV inputs? Pretty sure the AM/FM is the rectangular plug with the two circular connections inside it.
Haven't tried the hazards yet but I would not expect something like that to use a coaxial wire. Could be wrong though. I also believe, like you, that the AM/FM antenna is the white rectangular plug on the right side with 2 round connections in it.

I haven't pulled my dash that far apart yet, but I've disconnected the battery many times and the clock always sets itself when I reconnect. It can take a few minutes, but I just ignore it and eventually it is correct.

Does this system use a dual "diversity" antenna for the FM? Maybe that odd connector is for the second antenna?
I've not heard of a dual diversity antenna so I wouldn't know the answer to that one.
 
It's pretty easy, just buy a proper trim removal tool (~$15) and be patient to avoid damaging any of the trim pieces. Here's a video that shows how to do it:


Thanks
 
How difficult was it to get the head unit out?
As @greynolds said, it's very easy if you have a good trim tool. I could probably get the head unit out in about 5 minutes now after having to do it multiple times. One thing that is a little tricky and not necessarily intuitive on my 2011 is that you need to remove the small trim piece to the left of the steering wheel so you can loosen the trim immediately under the instrument cluster so you can remove the left vent. Your 2013 might be different. Still easy to do, just not intuitive.
 
As @greynolds said, it's very easy if you have a good trim tool. I could probably get the head unit out in about 5 minutes now after having to do it multiple times. One thing that is a little tricky and not necessarily intuitive on my 2011 is that you need to remove the small trim piece to the left of the steering wheel so you can loosen the trim immediately under the instrument cluster so you can remove the left vent. Your 2013 might be different. Still easy to do, just not intuitive.
Thanks I got it apart and verified the connector. I ordered the adapter and should get it today.
 
Thanks I got it apart and verified the connector. I ordered the adapter and should get it today.
Great, let us know how it works so others don't go the same "point of no return" route I took.
 
FYI, went wheeling this weekend in the woods and mountains at Windrock in East Tennessee. Am very happy to say that the XM coverage was pretty good with only a few dropouts even while under a pretty good tree cover. I apologize about the shaky video below but I was trying to not run off the trail with one hand while recording with the other. Also, I am not ashamed of my 80's on 8! :) Although, I was actually tuned into Classic Rewind at the time.

 

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