Sasquatch's (aka "Sassy") Tinker and Adventure Tread

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I read a lot about the various methods for installing spacers on here and decided to stick with the no loctite method, especially in light of the recommendations from Bora. Torqued them all to 105ftlbs given the larger than stock tire size, will retorque them in a few weeks and just plan on checking regularly. If they are going out of spec quickly maybe I’ll throw some blue loctite on them. Also got word that my second swing out is ready for pick up at Tomken, just need a couple hours to run up there!
 
Dropping here for future reference. Still need to wire up an accessory panel for the light bar and backup lights that are still uninstalled. I haven’t done much night wheeling so hasn’t really been needed, but the better back up lights/scene lights would be very nice to have.



After much research I am settling on continuing with a single battery system.
 
Finally bit the bullet and replaced the battery. Over the last several months it was having a harder time maintaining appropriate voltage, so would often be sitting at 12.0-12.2V despite charging from alternator or by my AC battery charger. Went with the Odyssey Extreme Group 31, already can see a huge difference. We’ll see how it fairs camping, but so far it has held a much better charge than the prior X2Power which is probably not a brand thing it was just tired. Unfortunately, while installing the battery was an absolute noob and accidentally tapped the positive terminal while tightening the tie down strap…but had already attached the negative terminal. Lesson learned! Power arc’ed through the wrench down the tie down up the body and through the browns to the negative terminal of the battery. I got incredibly lucky and avoided injury, was able to knock the wrench free pretty quickly but not before it totally fried the ground that attaches to the body panel right next to the negative terminal. $8 at Autozone and I got a new and larger gauge ground, pride only slightly damaged with no additional damage discovered yet! On the list of “nice to haves” is a proper accessory power panel to be able to clean up some of the wiring, but works fine for now. Project for another day.

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Checked torque on all the Bora spacers this morning. Have done it every 5,000 miles since mounting them (3-4x at this point) and never have I needed to tighten anything. 105 ft-lbs all around. I’m firmly in the “no need for thread lock” camp at this point.
 
Got the dreaded “something’s wrong with the Cruiser” text from my wife a couple months back, turns out the muffler’s heat shield had rotted to the point of literally falling off exposing the rotten muffler underneath. I think the classic car guys call this “patina”.

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Finally got around to tackling the replacement today with the part recommended by several on Mud from UPSW:

Fit is pretty darn dear perfect with exception of the angle of one of the hangers. Seems like a solid piece. Boy was it a struggle to get the old one out! I do not understand how you rust belt folks handle wrenching on 20 year old vehicles.
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Changed the oil, posting as a reminder to myself! Still stuck on the tire decision and am getting close to needing to pull the trigger as mine are wearing out. Very tempted by the Method sale going on to switch to a 17 to be able to run 285/75r17. Visually this would be amazing especially with the 316 wheel which I love, but the extra coin for minimal performance benefit is holding me up. In all likelihood I’ll probably go 275/70r18 again as the more adult but clearly less fun choice. Boo adulting.
 
That’s a great size! I always forget to search the imperial sizes when hunting. What 17” steelies are out there?

I THOUGHT FJCruiser, but they are the wrong bolt pattern. But I've seen steelies that look like FJC's on 100's so I'm tracking that down.

I think those Toyo AT 3's are the perfect "compromise" for road manners and snow while still looking pretty aggressive.
 
I had the Toyo's in that size on the Jeep Wrangler I recently sold in order to buy my 100. They were great in all weather conditions, including snow. They were relatively quiet, and treadwear was excellent. I liked them a lot.

On the Steelie wheel question, look for the early Tundra versions with the correct bolt pattern/hub size.
 
I had the Toyo's in that size on the Jeep Wrangler I recently sold in order to buy my 100. They were great in all weather conditions, including snow. They were relatively quiet, and treadwear was excellent. I liked them a lot.

On the Steelie wheel question, look for the early Tundra versions with the correct bolt pattern/hub size.
Pretty sure the only steelies I’ve ever seen for our rigs are 16 or 18, but would love to see other options!
 
That’s a great size! I always forget to search the imperial sizes when hunting. What 17” steelies are out there?

I haven't found any 5x150 17" steelies stateside. I've seen some 16" steelies overseas but at the cost to ship probably not worth the effort.
I've looked into a few of the custom vintage/hot rod steel wheel builders that might be able to do a set.

Wideman wheels was one that I used to see many moons ago. They would cut, widen, and re-weld steel wheel all the time. My thought was to cut out the centers of an Tundra 18" steel and weld into a new steel barrel at whatever offset desired.

But again, Is it worth the cost compared to what a set of Method's or Fifteen 52's.
 
I haven't found any 5x150 17" steelies stateside. I've seen some 16" steelies overseas but at the cost to ship probably not worth the effort.
I've looked into a few of the custom vintage/hot rod steel wheel builders that might be able to do a set.

Wideman wheels was one that I used to see many moons ago. They would cut, widen, and re-weld steel wheel all the time. My thought was to cut out the centers of an Tundra 18" steel and weld into a new steel barrel at whatever offset desired.

But again, Is it worth the cost compared to what a set of Method's or Fifteen 52's.
I definitely don’t love steelies THAT much! 😂
 
Finally did the pinch weld mod on my truck in anticipation of 34s. The one thing that’s not discussed and probably assumed by actual mechanics is that you’ll need to purchase replacement clips/grommets as the plastic on my 20 year old cruiser was so brittle every single one shattered coming out. I was able to find a suitable-ish replacement at our Autozone, but living in BFE I didn’t have the option of going to a dealer. Also folding inward worked well as it left somewhere to mold the liner around to keep it really tight to the metal.

Here’s the Partsouq page

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You’ll need ~20 of #1 and 6 of the #3. Save yourself a trip to the parts store and get these ahead of time!

Hammered:
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Painted:
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Melted:
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Now once my parts from UAE arrive I’ll tackle the other side.
 
Finally got some proper full sun pics of the new wheel and tire package. So so so (so) happy with how everything turned out and they ride great on dirt. Method 316 17x8 with 285/75r17 K02s.
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Had to replace the entire front end and steering rack last fall, been driving like a dream since then. Oil change yesterday and noticed a PS cooler line leaking so will get a new clamp on that. Ordered Dobinson C59-185 rear springs to hopefully correct my sagging rear that’s been a bother ever since the new tires and installing and Jerry can swing out. Should be dialed for camping season!
 
Had to replace the entire front end and steering rack last fall, been driving like a dream since then. Oil change yesterday and noticed a PS cooler line leaking so will get a new clamp on that. Ordered Dobinson C59-185 rear springs to hopefully correct my sagging rear that’s been a bother ever since the new tires and installing and Jerry can swing out. Should be dialed for camping season!

If you want to save a bunch of money on the springs, I'm selling a set of Dobinson C59-167's with 5k miles on them here in Loveland. $140. I get out to Salida from time to time. Will send you a PM
 

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