Sasquatch's (aka "Sassy") Tinker and Adventure Tread

[dividedan]

Well, this is Sasquatch aka "Sassy":

She is the first vehicle I have loved enough to name, and that was a complicated process of negotiation amongst my wife and 6yo daughter, and several of our friends. Text threads got quite long, and other top contenders included "Fully Metal Yeti", "Snow Yeti", and simply "Squatch". She's white and big what can I say.

I have wanted a land cruiser for a long long time, but student loans and practicality got in the way. With two young children, a realistic assessment of how she'd be used, I settled on the 100 as an ideal series for our purposes. Well thanks to this forum and the knowledge and support (and Classifieds!) found within I finally found the perfect one. Prior to jumping in I had already read so many build threads and tech articles I felt pretty silly with the (academic only) knowledge I had on these trucks without actually owning one, and I was excited to start building up one of my own.

So I bought one that was already built?? In reality, I have an extremely busy life (2 kids, demanding job) and my wife is not the most understanding about sinking thousands of dollars into an old vehicle (who can blame her). Truth is I found a deal close by that had all the modifications I would have chosen and more, at a price that was too good to pass up. @jfrench did a fine job of building her to where she sits today. This will get us out right away and be able to explore the beauty that surrounds my little podunk town.

So far she has been baselined/combed through by some of the best in the biz (@sleeoffroad and @2001LC ) which gives me great confidence in her longevity. I can only dream of maintaining the level where she currently sits. Hence the name "Tinker Thread", other than going full on "overland" on this baby there's not much else to be done to her. I'll be posting up my modifications, maintenance, and hopefully many trip reports and adventures.

 

[dividedan]

History of vehicle from PO:

Post purchase (March/April 2016) inspection and baseline done by Slee Offroad including:
-Front wheel bearing service
-Fuel filter
-Spark plugs
-Timing belt, front crank seal, idler bearing, serpentine belt
-Water pump
-Drain and fill diff, transfer case, engine oil
-Lube drivelines
-Transmission fluid drain and fill
-Brake fluid replaced, bleed system
-Air filter
-Grease driveshafts
-Drain and fill radiator, clean and fill reservoir
-Heater Ts
-Harrop E-Locker front and rear install with OEM switch

Mods:
-Cooper Discoverer AT/3 275/70R18 and matching spare w/ 30k+ miles on them
-Ironman Foam Cell Pro lift
-Nitro UCAs
-Diff drop
-Airlift 1000 rear suspension air bags
-Exhaust resonator delete
-Dissent aluminum front bumper
-Dissent rear steel bumper (OEM crossmember cut) w/ single spare tire swing out
-Trail tailor sliders
-Trail tailor creeper skid
-Gamiviti Expo+ roof rack with front light bar and rear lights (not wired)
-WagonGear tailgate lid
-Depo headlights
-Slee Group 31 battery tray w/ X2power AGM battery, mil spec battery terminals
-Slee stainless brake lines (rear installed, front supplied at purchase)
-ARB low profile drawer with fridge slide (passenger side, easily removable)
-Wits' End fire extinguisher mount (driver side)
-PFRAN interior LEDs
-YotaMD titanium key fob
-Weathertech floor guards front and middle row
-Switched auxiliary rear Powerwerx panel with USBs, mini Andersen connectors, cigarette adapter plug and/or voltmeter
-Bedliner'ed rear cargo floor 3/4" baltic birch wood base (allows use of 3rd row seat(s) with quick install/removal of drawer)

Recent (May 2019) upkeep/maintenance performed by 2001LC (100 series expert here on Mud):
-Exterior wash, clay bar and wax
-Interior clean/detail including leather clean/condition and carpet clean
-OEM idler pulley
-Tensioner bearing
-Differential drain/fill
-Power steering flush
-Re-torque spark plugs, head cover
-MAF clean
-Replace cracked air box vacuum line, PVC hoses, idle up control vacuum line
-Air filter
-Rear stainless steel brake lines install
-Brake fluid flush/bleed

Known issues (see pictures where applicable):
-Rear window hatch rust--rust free replacement hatch from pre-'03 included in sale
-Wheel arch rust
-Front passenger seat leather (tough/firm)--all other leather in good condition, no tears
-Keyless entry not working due to me haphazardly removing a bunch of PO wiring and getting overzealous (still have the needed electronics for it, just needs to be reinstalled)
-Replaced 2nd row overhead DVD player with OEM dome light but need to fab a little cover over the cutout in the headliner
-Although it's good enough for me, sound system could use a once over (PO wired aftermarket subwoofer which I deleted; ?new speakers, sub +/- amp), including recovering speaker grills
-Handful of cosmetic restoration items (grill chrome, console shifter bezel, plastic seatbelt hooks/stays, broken cupholder, etc.)
-Laundry list of upcoming recommended service per 2001LC:
Coolant flush, thermostat w/ o-ring, wheel bearing, axle bearing/bushing service, transfer case flush, lower ball joint, coil boot/seal kit

 

[dividedan]

And future projects/dreams as they stand (with timeline):

1. Replace radiator (within the year, starting to show spidering)
2. Replace LBJs, or maybe take the easy way out and do the whole the LCAs with new OEM (within the year)
3. Spacers (TBD), I'm vain and think it would help with her stance what can I say
4. Possibly trade for some factory 16s with next tire purchase (TBD, more questions on this later)
5. Find suitable LED pods for the front bumper, wire them to factory fog lights and mod so can be used with high beams (3-6 months)
6. Winch install (1-2 years). Still debating ComeUp versus Smittybilt.
7. Fabricate a DIY relay and fuse box for wiring accessories like the light bar and reverse lights that I have and are not wired, including some slick 3D printed goods from @BenCC for the switches. (within the year)....or just buy an S-pod if I get lazy!
8. Dial in the camping set up next summer, including fabricating a table for the camp stove to attach to the swing out. (next summer)

 

[dividedan]

Ordered some of these China specials for the Dissent from bumper cut outs, couldn't justify a RIGID or Baja for how little I'll use em and a lot of the issues with moisture ingress I shouldn't have here. I mainly wanted something to fill the space on the bumper and some extra light when rolling in to camp late in the evening. We'll see...

Amazon product ASIN B00J5AAX5S
Plan is to wire them up to the factory fog light wire with something like this. Are these waterproof/durable enough for that location?

Amazon product ASIN B01A6LTK44
Then mod the fog light switch so that it can be used with the high or low beams. Putting the link to the article on tlcfaq here so I can find it later!

Fog Light Switch Rewire for High Beam Use

Article by: RobRed Applicable Models: 1998 - 2007 / 100 Series Land Cruiser or Lx 470 There are times when you just want it your way. Maybe you want to

tlcfaq.com

 

[dividedan]

Next project I might try and tackle over the winter is a fuse/relay panel hooked up to a switch panel mounted in the overhead console. I found an excellent article on using a Bussman RTMR for this purpose, linked below. I’ll also be after a Trail Tailor fuse panel mount to keep it tidy in the engine bay. Realistically I will probably only have a few accessories to power, currently with the fog lights wired to the factory switch that just leaves the reverse/camp lights and the front light bar. Onboard air is currently a cheap Viair compressor and works fine, would like to mount an ARB eventually but this will likely be switched in the engine bay for convenience. This will leave plenty of room for expansion though as it is needed.

DIY Bussmann RTMR Fuse Block, Part 1 – Introduction | Bodenzord

This is Part 1 in a series of tutorials that will show you how to build a Bussmann RTMR fuse/relay block. If you're not familiar with this product, it's a simple waterproof enclosure that allows you to connect accessories on your vehicle through relays and/or fuses.

www.bodenzord.com

 

[dividedan]

New rear pads and rotors and my buddy noticed slight leaking from the left axle seal. Put it on the watch list for now, planning on checking diff fluids prior to summer wheeling season.

 

[dividedan]

Took her proper wheeling today on Chinaman Gulch. Christened the sliders, rear bumper, transfer case skid, front bumper, RCA mounts, etc etc...It was a blast!

Thank you @TRAIL TAILOR and @benc for making bomber products, kept my baby safe! Unbelievable how capable the 100 is, I was hanging with an 80 on 37s.

Realized my rear locker isn’t working about halfway up, have some electrical investigation to do now.

 

[jfrench]

Hell yeah! Love watching that crawling. Sucks about the locker. Sorry. Wonder what's up with it.

Time for some of these:

100 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids

Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids Made from 3/16" HSLA steel Laser cut and CNC bent for accuracy Works with OEM bars and up to 2.5" Johnny Joint ends Kit includes the following: (1) Set (right and left) skids - bare metal (2) M14 Grade 10.9 bolts, (4) washers and (2)...

www.trail-tailor.com

 

[dividedan]

Hell yeah! Love watching that crawling. Sucks about the locker. Sorry. Wonder what's up with it.

Time for some of these:

100 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids

Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids Made from 3/16" HSLA steel Laser cut and CNC bent for accuracy Works with OEM bars and up to 2.5" Johnny Joint ends Kit includes the following: (1) Set (right and left) skids - bare metal (2) M14 Grade 10.9 bolts, (4) washers and (2)...

www.trail-tailor.com

Literally the first thing I looked up when I got home, once the apocalypse is over I’ll be picking some up. Reckon it’s something electrical since there’s no gnarly sounds from the rear! A winch would have come in handy while I was high centered on a big step as well, start saving up now.

 

[dividedan]

Hell yeah! Love watching that crawling. Sucks about the locker. Sorry. Wonder what's up with it.

Time for some of these:

100 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids

Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids Made from 3/16" HSLA steel Laser cut and CNC bent for accuracy Works with OEM bars and up to 2.5" Johnny Joint ends Kit includes the following: (1) Set (right and left) skids - bare metal (2) M14 Grade 10.9 bolts, (4) washers and (2)...

www.trail-tailor.com

That descent looks like nothing on the video, man it did not feel like nothing at the time!

 

[dividedan]

I’ve been researching tire sizes a lot as I think that’ll be my next upgrade. I wasn’t thinking I was gonna do any rock crawling in this rig, but turns out with trails like Chinaman, grizzly lake, Holy Cross, and many others close by I end up getting invited along and actually really love it. It has become apparent that my break over angle is an issue with those trails as all the rock rash I get is on the sliders, RLCA mounts, and mid skid. My wheels have taken a serious beating with the lower profile of the 275/70 also.

My lift is currently at about 21.5” hub to fender on front and 22.5” at the rear which as far as I can tell is maxed out though will be measuring the droop as soon as I get a free minute. I am interested in trying a larger tire size to see if that can help my offroad performance a bit. My gas mileage fully armored is horrible, so might as well get the tires and height I want! I do basically zero highway driving and can tolerate some sluggishness getting up to our ski area in the winter. This is not a race car and I don't expect it to accelerate like one.

I am feeling very tempted by the 285/75r18 Toyo Open Country R/T or 295/70r18 ST Maxx. I love the taller “skinny” profile of the 285/75, but the 295/70 seems like a safer choice. From my research folks who’ve worked so hard to run true 35s have all said that the 285/75 is easier than a 315 or imperial sized option. I plan to wheel it decently hard.

So, I ask you @paflytyer @spressomon @hoser @benc (others I'm sure) does the following "plan" seem feasible?

1. 285/75r18, probably Toyo Open Country R/T
2. Pinch weld mod
3. Heat molding/cutting front fender liner
4. Small wheel spacer if needed

Questions:

1. Would I be likely to need 1/2” body lift?
2. Would I need extended bump stops?
3. Can anyone link to the elusive slip on 10mm spacer or have those who run these have them custom fabricated?

I know the "will they fit without rubbing" threads are obnoxious and trust me I have read everything I can find on these tire sizes on Mud. I am tempted just to mount them and then add on any additional mods for fitment as they seem needed, but I was hoping to draw on the collective 35 wisdom to hear whether I should plan for needing spacer, body lift, etc. If it will definitely require the 1” body lift and all the modification that comes with that I’ll probably go for the 295/70 option.

Thank y'all!

 

[spressomon]

After lipping a couple wheels I moved on to 305/70R18 for more flotation and the ability to run lower pressure on the more technical rocky trails...and haven't looked back. As always your gear choices, tires included, are all about the application. If not for rough rocky trails the 285/75R18 would have been fine.

1" body lift is the key for me as I run a relatively low (compared to most guys here) suspension height (which has paid back huge dividends in steering feel at highway speed and CV longevity, etc.) plus getting rid of the pinch weld protrusion. I do get a little rub at full steering stop but its OK and not worth bothering with and/or reducing the turn radius.

I currently have about 18k miles on my Cooper ST Maxx since installing them new in January 2016 and will buy them again but fortunately they have more life in them, so that won't be for another couple years.

 

[dividedan]

After lipping a couple wheels I moved on to 305/70R18 for more flotation and the ability to run lower pressure on the more technical rocky trails...and haven't looked back. As always your gear choices, tires included, are all about the application. If not for rough rocky trails the 285/75R18 would have been fine.

1" body lift is the key for me as I run a relatively low (compared to most guys here) suspension height (which has paid back huge dividends in steering feel at highway speed and CV longevity, etc.) plus getting rid of the pinch weld protrusion. I do get a little rub at full steering stop but its OK and not worth bothering with and/or reducing the turn radius.

I currently have about 18k miles on my Cooper ST Maxx since installing them new in January 2016 and will buy them again but fortunately they have more life in them, so that won't be for another couple years.

Ok so if I’m hearing you right you went up in width to the 305 to get more volume to help prevent rim damage and get more “flotation”? I would assume that the body lift is more needed for the 305 than the 285 right? Would you think a 1/2” body lift to avoid mucking with the steering linkage, transfer case shifter, and fan shroud would gain any useful clearance? What spacer are you running these days?

 

[spressomon]

^ Yes, more air volume between wheel and ground. I ran a 1/2" body lift for a year or two and it definitely helps; just need to be careful on big compression hits. And yes, the 10-12mm is a relatively easy install compared to 1" and taller. In the grand scheme of things it might be easier to cut or have a good body shop guy cut and roll the front fenders to get more clearance for taller & wider tires.

I do get a little rear inner fender well rub at/near full articulation but I'm also running custom shocks and mounts with ~11" of travel so that makes it worse than it would be with stock/near stock travel shocks.

I'm not running wheel spacers in front or rear these days. I didn't like the scrub radius effect and also the hassle of being sure the spacer was centered to the hub, etc. And, because I run a relatively low suspension height, I feel I can get by without them (minimal reduced track width compared to higher static suspension "lifts").

 

[CBeckFJ]

I’ve been researching tire sizes a lot as I think that’ll be my next upgrade. I wasn’t thinking I was gonna do any rock crawling in this rig, but turns out with trails like Chinaman, grizzly lake, Holy Cross, and many others close by I end up getting invited along and actually really love it. It has become apparent that my break over angle is an issue with those trails as all the rock rash I get is on the sliders, RLCA mounts, and mid skid. My wheels have taken a serious beating with the lower profile of the 275/70 also.

My lift is currently at about 21.5” hub to fender on front and 22.5” at the rear which as far as I can tell is maxed out though will be measuring the droop as soon as I get a free minute. I am interested in trying a larger tire size to see if that can help my offroad performance a bit. My gas mileage fully armored is horrible, so might as well get the tires and height I want! I do basically zero highway driving and can tolerate some sluggishness getting up to our ski area in the winter. This is not a race car and I don't expect it to accelerate like one.

I am feeling very tempted by the 285/75r18 Toyo Open Country R/T or 295/70r18 ST Maxx. I love the taller “skinny” profile of the 285/75, but the 295/70 seems like a safer choice. From my research folks who’ve worked so hard to run true 35s have all said that the 285/75 is easier than a 315 or imperial sized option. I plan to wheel it decently hard.

So, I ask you @paflytyer @spressomon @hoser @benc (others I'm sure) does the following "plan" seem feasible?

1. 285/75r18, probably Toyo Open Country R/T
2. Pinch weld mod
3. Heat molding/cutting front fender liner
4. Small wheel spacer if needed

Questions:

1. Would I be likely to need 1/2” body lift?
2. Would I need extended bump stops?
3. Can anyone link to the elusive slip on 10mm spacer or have those who run these have them custom fabricated?

I know the "will they fit without rubbing" threads are obnoxious and trust me I have read everything I can find on these tire sizes on Mud. I am tempted just to mount them and then add on any additional mods for fitment as they seem needed, but I was hoping to draw on the collective 35 wisdom to hear whether I should plan for needing spacer, body lift, etc. If it will definitely require the 1” body lift and all the modification that comes with that I’ll probably go for the 295/70 option.

Thank y'all!

The 295 coopers to me seem like the best choice. Those will clear stock without spacers or any pinch welds, so you should be fine.

 

[dividedan]

The 295 coopers to me seem like the best choice. Those will clear stock without spacers or any pinch welds, so you should be fine.

I suppose that’s the reasonable step up and just see how it goes. The more aggressive tread of the ST Maxx over my current AT3s will also probably make a difference. There’s just something about 35s though..feels like they match the rest of my rig.

 

[hoser]

I'm still running the 285/75R18's, 1-1/4" wheel adapters, no body lift. Can't get into my garage with any more lift. It does rub on occasion but only off-road. Fenders are still intact but the points of contact are the fender lip/upper liner and also sometimes the washer reservoir (even after some trimming). Doesn't really bother me but might, if I was doing more high speed desert driving. It would probably rub a little less with 20mm or 10mm wheel spacers (Motorsport Techniques).

Given your build is already outfitted with bumpers and sliders... you can do a 1" body lift but you won't reap all the benefits unless you modify each bumper/slider, 1" higher. In my mind, the best method would be to just cut the fender arch 1.5" higher, add Dissent's bullbar and get some custom bar work to hide my lack of bodywork skills and also protect the fender. This way your center of gravity remains the same. Could maybe even fit 315/70R18's (36" tire).

Not my pic but taken from Benc's thread. See my added bar work below!

 

[dividedan]

I'm still running the 285/75R18's, 1-1/4" wheel adapters, no body lift. Can't get into my garage with any more lift. It does rub on occasion but only off-road. Fenders are still intact but the points of contact are the fender lip/upper liner and also sometimes the washer reservoir (even after some trimming). Doesn't really bother me but might, if I was doing more high speed desert driving. It would probably rub a little less with 20mm or 10mm wheel spacers (Motorsport Techniques).

Given your build is already outfitted with bumpers and sliders... you can do a 1" body lift but you won't reap all the benefits unless you modify each bumper/slider, 1" higher. In my mind, the best method would be to just cut the fender arch 1.5" higher, add Dissent's bullbar and get some custom bar work to hide my lack of bodywork skills and also protect the fender. This way your center of gravity remains the same. Could maybe even fit 315/70R18's (36" tire).

Not my pic but taken from Benc's thread. See my added bar work below!

View attachment 2267485

Thanks that's helpful as well. I'm so tempted to just give it a go with a 20mm spacer and then do the body lift only if needed. I looked at the mounting points of the bumpers and the front has quite a bit of upwards adjustment available. The rear looks like it is fixed at it's current height, but I rarely drag the rear it's ways the center of the truck. Ben's bumper is so good I have yet to have that be the limiting factor of climbing an obstacle.

 

[hoser]

Yes, I think that is a good plan. That tire size will also fit without any spacers.

 

[dividedan]

Finally got a chance to muck around with the rear locker and got it working again. Turns out it somehow blew its 10 amp fuse so replacing that got it engaging again. Anyone know if that’s the appropriate fuse size for the Harrop? Seems odd that it would pull more than that.