They did a TV spot on the salt they used this winter on the roads here in the Mid west. We had a rough winter with a lot of ice. The information is that someone has developed a new kind of salt that can help keep the streets clear of ice. The downside is that this new salt acts like salt on steroids and will eat a car faster then anything they have ever seen in the past. They advised frequent car washes with bottom blasts along with getting after the rust the minute you see it forming. I guess I am lucky that all winter I washed my LX470 and did the bottom blast every week through the winter. I am now going to get under my LX with some rust arrester and rustolem and attack any rust I see forming. I am posting this to inform others that live in the rust belt to do the same.
Salt on Steroids
- Thread starter SWUtah
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Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
Do they use salt in Utah/Colorado/NM?
Having lived in Upstate NY for 6 yrs, municipalities that use salt should be liable for any rust damage. If that were the case, they might actually look into a non-corrosive alternative to salt.
Having lived in Upstate NY for 6 yrs, municipalities that use salt should be liable for any rust damage. If that were the case, they might actually look into a non-corrosive alternative to salt.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Even if they only use sand where you live you should wash the undercarriage frequently during the winter. Sand finds its way into every nook and cranny of the frame, once it's in there it hold moisture for a long time.
they cal the stuff they use here "brime mixture" what ever that is; i try to wash mine every 2 weeks the last storm we had i car was completly white (usually dark grey) i try to use those outdoor washers first then go to a regular car wash but i think they just do the top; it was 8 this morning here so i cant do it for a few days defintly have to take care of any chips in the paint but i think the under carriage is covered with something
Probably developed by the big three USA auto makers
. Brings back shades of a rusted out 1974 Chevy pick up truck that was only a few years old at the time!
Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
Problem is, the boxed frame isn't completely sealed. There are holes in it at certain places, like on the rear crossmember. There's really no way to wash any salt out of there.
They started using Magnesium Chloride on the roads here in Colorado. 
Nasty stuff. Corrosive and conductive. Eats the metal and ruins your wiring. They apply it in liquid form and it gets kicked up into the air and stays aloft long enough to completely coat your vehicle. I went through gallons of windshield washer fluid this winter. Because it's liquid, it penetrates every crevise on your vehicle. I tried washing mine often but it was so cold that it was difficult. Frozen doors on several occasions. My once rust free 60 is suffereing.
The era of rust-free Colorado cruisers has ended.
Nasty stuff. Corrosive and conductive. Eats the metal and ruins your wiring. They apply it in liquid form and it gets kicked up into the air and stays aloft long enough to completely coat your vehicle. I went through gallons of windshield washer fluid this winter. Because it's liquid, it penetrates every crevise on your vehicle. I tried washing mine often but it was so cold that it was difficult. Frozen doors on several occasions. My once rust free 60 is suffereing. The era of rust-free Colorado cruisers has ended.
Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
They started using Magnesium Chloride on the roads here in Colorado.
The era of rust-free Colorado cruisers has ended.
I thought they used sand in CO? Has it gotten too expensive with the rise of construction material prices?
- Thread starter
- #9
I now live on the Missouri/Kansas area. Kansas City, and they used so much salt that almost all the streets in the KC area were "white" and covered with white dust for months during this winter when they were not covered with ice or snow. I just finished power washing the underside of my LX and using Rustoleum Hammer coat that is recommended for rust on any area that looked at all like the paint was getting thin or if there was any rust colored tint to the frame. I will do this every Spring and Fall so I can keep ahead of the rust. We are lucky that with our LX/LC's it is easy to get under and take care of any problem area's that might appear and also the fact that most of the metal other then the frame and connectors is galvanized steel and I saw no rust on any of these surfaces. My advise stay on top of this potential problem, if you live in the rust belt or drive through the rust belt in the winter months.
- Thread starter
- #10
That is one reason I would wash it every week figured it was better then nothing. The touchless car wash where I go does a good bottom blast and you get a free rewash 48 hours later so I washed my LX two times within 48 hours every week throughout the winter even if the temp's were in the teens and I still had rust to take care of today.
Yes - Aggressive use of mag cloride in Colorado usually mixed with some real nice Pikes Peak Crushed Granite (more like garden path gravel than sand). Once the DOT gets in gear they can make a road passable and safe in almost any conditions as the combination is awesome on ice and roads. The gravel is tough on paint and windshields and the mag is corrosive. But the heavily salted roads are much better for vehicles than icy streets. Very easy to keep your car out of it (and the hockey-like traffic) by staying home. Some days the miles per gallon on windshield fluid and gas are about the same.
They have also experimented with a corn-syrup/or corn-starch based deicer but it's pricy and covers your car in a goo like a spilled soda pop.
- Thread starter
- #12
Lets talk about treating the rust from this stuff. I use the Rustoleum that is labeled for use at just covering the rust which they claim will stop the rust since it cuts off oxygen. I've also used rust converters that changes the rust and then I've sprayed it with rustoleum. I've got experience with this because I owned a Dodge 1 ton that I treated every year and it stayed in good shape.
hey what do you actually spray are u coating everything under neath i try to check mine when we get good brakes (non so far this winter) but my under parts look good even the axel the is a h2 near m house that i see often and his axel looks rusty as hell not sure if there is actual damage under there but it does look ugly ( and its not dirt for those of you that thought that i seen him at the local car wash and its still there. but hey let me know what you actually use i would be interested in doing this when the weather lets up around here
- Thread starter
- #14
I had some surface rust on frame rails and some of the welds. I first got under the LX and used rust converter on any ID'ed rust, then I followed up and painted the frame rails and all welds with Hammer coat Rustoluem that is recommended for coverage of any rusted surface. It all now looks like new and I will follow-up in the fall and do another coat before the winter hits. I figure if I do this every Spring and Fall I can just use the Rustoleum Black Hammer coat and it will be rust free, even with the State using their Salt from Hell.
justimaginejack
Looking for a new Cruiser
So the underneath is going to get it. But can't a high quality Wax like Carnauba help to protect against the salt getting to the other parts of the body; Specifically the paint. Also, on the LX isn't the body cladding plastic? How does it get effected?
The salt does nothing to the paint. It only attacks where the metal is exposed (rock chips ect). Corrosion usually happens from inside out working from somewhere where the water gets trapped with the salt.
Plastic is unaffected by the salt
Things to think about - check all the door drains and make sure they are free flowing so you don't have standing water inside the doors.
Lets get some picures up of 100 rust so we can get an idea of problem areas. The only concern I have is rock chips in the front are rusted on mine.
