Sagging Driver Door. Adjust, fix, or replace hinges?

[Cman]

Hi,

The drivers side door took some damage at some point. I'm guessing it was hung on and now when I close the door, it needs to be "lifted" to close properly.

Symptoms:
-Loose door at hinges. No obvious damage, but bolts seem tight. I can List the door and see movement at the hinges.
-Hits bottom of door seal when closing.

I was wondering if I should replace the hinges ($100 for the set) or if the problem might still exist.
I could also "adjust" it, but the bolts seem tight, though there is play in the hinges themselves (can't be tightened).

I'm leaning towards buying a set and hoping I get lucky. What do you think?

LC 2000 Sagging Door Hinge

• Cman
• Jul 1, 2018

 

[Spike555]

I would replace the hinges. If the pins in them are worn out that is the only cure.

 

[Cman]

I would replace the hinges. If the pins in them are worn out that is the only cure.

Sold! Hopefully it helps and I don't need to do any body work. Thanks!

 

[shelfboy1]

they make pin bushing for some vehicles gm truck for sure .i cant explain it but i use a series of wedges for differnt vehicles and can adjust them .bend them to shape by closing the door and bending the body a bit it has worked for me for years just cant explain it right

 

[Loyota]

Any update? I have the same issue. I tried adjusting the hinge and its a tad better but still does not fit like the other doors..

 

[John Young]

My 98 LC with 500K km on the clock had a loose driver door set of hinges. Just plain old wear, I think. My garage here in Dubai had no trouble buying OEM new hinges for the driver door from Toyota. Worked like a charm. I recommend just buying new hinges and putting them on. It was not all that expensive. At least I don't recall moaning about it when they told me the price for the parts.

 

[Cman]

Any update? I have the same issue. I tried adjusting the hinge and its a tad better but still does not fit like the other doors..

I replaced the hinges, but the larger issue is adjusting it properly. The dealers have a special ($80) wrench they use. Getting it perfect must be a learned skill through trial and error. I may pay the dealer to line it up properly.

 

[Loyota]

I just bought the tool and will give it a shot myself. Found the tool for $34 and figure if I do replace hinges I will need this tool anyway. I've messed with door side hinge bolts but its not fixed yet. I get some fluttering on the highway if the wind is just right (rare). My hinge pins don't seem loose at all - i.e. door has no wiggle when its open. I'm hoping that some minor adjusting on the hinge to truck bolts will fix it.

12 mm S Type Wrench for Installing and Removing Car Door Hinge Screws, JTC# 4093 4712631143570 | eBay

 

[dchilds]

My DS rear door makes slight contact with the lower jamb and creaks when closing. I might need an adjustment, too.

Can you detail this process in a post?

I just bought the tool and will give it a shot myself. Found the tool for $34 and figure if I do replace hinges I will need this tool anyway. I've messed with door side hinge bolts but its not fixed yet. I get some fluttering on the highway if the wind is just right (rare). My hinge pins don't seem loose at all - i.e. door has no wiggle when its open. I'm hoping that some minor adjusting on the hinge to truck bolts will fix it.

12 mm S Type Wrench for Installing and Removing Car Door Hinge Screws, JTC# 4093 4712631143570 | eBay

 

[ArnieC]

As far as replacing the hinges goes, my upper drivers side hinge had a bad bushing. Since it is just as much work to replace 1 hinge as 2, I did both of them. It is detailed out somewhere on this forum but here is how I did it.

Before starting, paint the hinges with some matching touch up paint. Its not a super visible location, so close enough is close enough. Replacement hinges come in black e-coat from Toyota-san and I was concerned about rust long term.

• Open door, remove kick panel cover to get access to door wiring harness.
• Roll down window to protect glass and give you a good place to hold the door, then unplug the wiring.
• Pull the wiring out of the body, leave it attached to the door.
  
• Disconnect the door limit strap from the body. Do this when the door is not fully open so it can be slid back into the door shell easily.
• Tape up all the edges on the door frame and body with blue painters tape to prevent scratches.
• Get a heavy wool moving blanket and set it in a close area that will not be in the way.
• Get a transmission jack or similar and place it under the door. Jack the transmission jack so it touches the door but does not put any load on the door.
• Get a helper monkey to hold the door upright.
• Unbolt the lower hinge from the door
• Unbolt the upper hinge from the door
• Remove the door from the vehicle and set aside.
• *no need to mark the location of the hinge on the door, all the adjustment is on the body*
• **the bolts that fasten the door to the hinges are special shoulder bolts. Do not lose them or replace with alternate hardware**
• Two options for the next part. Use the factory seam sealer to locate the new hinge OR mark the location of the hinge.
• I used the factory seam sealer.
• Unbolt the old hinge and very carefully separate the seam sealer from the door hinge using a putty knife. Leave the seam sealer on the door jam to help you locate the new hinge
• Position the new hinge against the old factory seam sealer and tighten it down. Do the same for the other hinge.
• Get your helper monkey to help reinstall the door. Wheel it in on the jack, have them hold it upright while you bolt the door to the hinges.
• Fish the wires through the jam (no need to connect at this point) and reinstall the limiting strap.
• Check the door operation and fit. Gap should be even all the way around. If you have to adjust the door, do it by either removing the door or using the special tool noted above.
• CLOSE THE DOOR SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY. Someone may have adjusted the striker to compensate for a loose door. If you feel anything trying to push the door up or down when closing on the latch, stop and adjust the striker so the door closes smoothly.
• If everything is to your liking, plug the wiring in, verify operation of electrical features, remove the blue painters tape, and reinstall the kick panel cover.
• Take your helper monkey out to dinner to thank her for the help.

A few other things of note:

• Driver and passenger front door hintes are the same but the locations are flipped top to bottom. IE a top hinge on the drivers side is a bottom hinge on the passenger side. Passenger side hinges rarely have significant wear and you could get used ones from a yard if you were trying to save pennies.
• Similar era RAV-4s use the same front door hinges, but they do it differently. A RAV4 top front door hinge is the same as the SAME SIDE DOOR Top hinge and OPPOSITE SIDE DOOR bottom hinge. IE a drivers door top hinge from a RAV4 is the same as the drivers door top hinge on an LC. The passenger door top hinge on a RAV4 is the same as the drivers door bottom hinge OR passenger door top hinge on an LC.
• My top hinge was worn but my bottom hinge was serviceable. Since it is the same amount of work to replace both and only an additional $40 for parts I replaced both for peace of mind. If you are on a McBudget, you could probably get away with just replacing the top hinge as that is what sees the most wear from short, rotund former owners using the door as a ladder to get in.

 

[Loyota]

ArnieC - great write up. I am curious if you had noticeable play in your upper hinge before you started? I ask because I don't have any wiggle but the door hits the striker a bit low. If it ever stops raining, I'll try on my new wrench and see I can move the hinges a bit.

 

[ArnieC]

My door had perceptible play. I could tell right away when I bought my truck because the door didnt shut or sound right.

With the door open, give it a good grab at the lower corner and pull up. Any wiggle that is detected is bad. If the door is tight but the striker is not sounding or feeling right, look at the gaps. If the gaps are off, adjust the hinges, if the gaps are good, adjust the striker

 

[Loyota]

Sorry for the delay but finally got around to fixing the door. My door had no hinge play when door was opened. Not sure its required but I removed a few of the front fender bolts just so I could pull the fender back about 1/2 inch for better access and sight.

I used the special tool that I linked above and loosened the hinge to truck bolts on the top and bottom hinges. I then placed a jack under the door and tightened the bolts. The door now closes dead on and lines up with the striker no problem. I suspect the previous owner hung on the door at some point (kids) and it slipped down maybe. In any case, $35 for the tool and its all good now. Its the little things!

Now if you have any slop in the door, then I think replacing the hinges is the best option although a bit more work.

 

[Loyota]

I thought I would add one more thing. Even after the door was adjusted, I was getting some wind noise and sometimes some moisture leaking past the door seal in a heavy rain. I purchased a new Toyota seal for about $52. It is super easy to install (5 minutes) and made the door fit better and reduced the wind noise. I'd recommend a new door seal if you have any doubts - 14 years and it gets worn out.

So my total repair cost was a hinge tool for $35 and a door seal for $52. If your hinge has any slop then you may need new hinges also but I did not.

 

[Car52]

Just ordered the wrench and will try the fix. I have the same exact issue as Loyota. Thank you for sharing.

 

[Ayune]

Just adjusted my drivers door upward a tad. When closing, it was contacting the striker and the whole door lifted up about 1/4” while it was latching. The upper hinge pin is loose and worn. 309k on the truck.

Using a 12mm S-wrench (link below): I slightly loosened the two screws on the body side of the upper hinge, whacked the hinge forward about 3mm with a rubber mallet and wood block, tightened up the screws and tested. The door was a smidge high so I loosened the screws again, leaned on the door a bit to move it back down, re-tightened and re-tested. A 2mm shift was perfect.

Amazon product ASIN B06Y3MNYZ1

 

[Tanner H]

@Ayune This is exactly what I am experiencing right now, just the slightest movement when making contact with the striker. Only on the driver door. Guessing in an out for 20 years will do that. Thanks for posting, I'll be ordering that wrench to my OCD's delight.

 

[gregnash]

@Ayune This is exactly what I am experiencing right now, just the slightest movement when making contact with the striker. Only on the driver door. Guessing in an out for 20 years will do that. Thanks for posting, I'll be ordering that wrench to my OCD's delight.

Yup get the wrench, it will come in handy. Originally bought it for my FJ60 to replace the doors that were rusted out on her when I was doing the rust abatement and getting her ready for paint. Then when I had to replace the fan clutch on Alita here, that wrench actually came in great handy for getting the nuts off the bracket. So it has more than paid for itself already.

 

[2001LC]

I just bought the tool and will give it a shot myself. Found the tool for $34 and figure if I do replace hinges I will need this tool anyway. I've messed with door side hinge bolts but its not fixed yet. I get some fluttering on the highway if the wind is just right (rare). My hinge pins don't seem loose at all - i.e. door has no wiggle when its open. I'm hoping that some minor adjusting on the hinge to truck bolts will fix it.

12 mm S Type Wrench for Installing and Removing Car Door Hinge Screws, JTC# 4093 4712631143570 | eBay

How did you like the tool?

 

[IceStorm]

As far as replacing the hinges goes, my upper drivers side hinge had a bad bushing. Since it is just as much work to replace 1 hinge as 2, I did both of them. It is detailed out somewhere on this forum but here is how I did it.

Before starting, paint the hinges with some matching touch up paint. Its not a super visible location, so close enough is close enough. Replacement hinges come in black e-coat from Toyota-san and I was concerned about rust long term.

• Open door, remove kick panel cover to get access to door wiring harness.
• Roll down window to protect glass and give you a good place to hold the door, then unplug the wiring.
• Pull the wiring out of the body, leave it attached to the door.
• Disconnect the door limit strap from the body. Do this when the door is not fully open so it can be slid back into the door shell easily.
• Tape up all the edges on the door frame and body with blue painters tape to prevent scratches.
• Get a heavy wool moving blanket and set it in a close area that will not be in the way.
• Get a transmission jack or similar and place it under the door. Jack the transmission jack so it touches the door but does not put any load on the door.
• Get a helper monkey to hold the door upright.
• Unbolt the lower hinge from the door
• Unbolt the upper hinge from the door
• Remove the door from the vehicle and set aside.
• *no need to mark the location of the hinge on the door, all the adjustment is on the body*
• **the bolts that fasten the door to the hinges are special shoulder bolts. Do not lose them or replace with alternate hardware**
• Two options for the next part. Use the factory seam sealer to locate the new hinge OR mark the location of the hinge.
• I used the factory seam sealer.
• Unbolt the old hinge and very carefully separate the seam sealer from the door hinge using a putty knife. Leave the seam sealer on the door jam to help you locate the new hinge
• Position the new hinge against the old factory seam sealer and tighten it down. Do the same for the other hinge.
• Get your helper monkey to help reinstall the door. Wheel it in on the jack, have them hold it upright while you bolt the door to the hinges.
• Fish the wires through the jam (no need to connect at this point) and reinstall the limiting strap.
• Check the door operation and fit. Gap should be even all the way around. If you have to adjust the door, do it by either removing the door or using the special tool noted above.
• CLOSE THE DOOR SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY. Someone may have adjusted the striker to compensate for a loose door. If you feel anything trying to push the door up or down when closing on the latch, stop and adjust the striker so the door closes smoothly.
• If everything is to your liking, plug the wiring in, verify operation of electrical features, remove the blue painters tape, and reinstall the kick panel cover.
• Take your helper monkey out to dinner to thank her for the help.

A few other things of note:

• Driver and passenger front door hintes are the same but the locations are flipped top to bottom. IE a top hinge on the drivers side is a bottom hinge on the passenger side. Passenger side hinges rarely have significant wear and you could get used ones from a yard if you were trying to save pennies.
• Similar era RAV-4s use the same front door hinges, but they do it differently. A RAV4 top front door hinge is the same as the SAME SIDE DOOR Top hinge and OPPOSITE SIDE DOOR bottom hinge. IE a drivers door top hinge from a RAV4 is the same as the drivers door top hinge on an LC. The passenger door top hinge on a RAV4 is the same as the drivers door bottom hinge OR passenger door top hinge on an LC.
• My top hinge was worn but my bottom hinge was serviceable. Since it is the same amount of work to replace both and only an additional $40 for parts I replaced both for peace of mind. If you are on a McBudget, you could probably get away with just replacing the top hinge as that is what sees the most wear from short, rotund former owners using the door as a ladder to get in.

Thanks for this write up, helped me allot. cut sealer from the door hinge with a putty knife. That helped a lot, but I also used a masking take around the hinges and marked the location of the hinges, X and Y locations, so to speak. I´l drop a few pics here.