Rusted rear axle options (1 Viewer)

[HorseMeat]

I have been getting around to fixing the rust on various places on my 80 over the past few months. I crawled under there to look at the rear axle and granted this doesn't happen over night, but it was worse than I remembered it. I'm not new to rust repair but I'm also no expert by any stretch of the imagination. Is this thing screwed or will a new diff cover handle most of my problems along with a wire wheel and some rust encapsulator?

 

[cowboyjack]

When you start chipping the rust off, how deep does it go? Is the differential cover mating surface rusted as well, or just the cover?

My diff had some rust, not quite as much as yours, I chipped, wire brushed and grinder-ed what seemed reasonable, then treated with phosphoric acid and POR 15-ed it. On inspection, looked like plenty of metal was still there. There was no rust on diff cover mating surface. So far, so good.

I figured I wouldn’t be hitting rocks head on with it.

 

[HorseMeat]

I haven't gotten too deep into it yet but a lot of the little brackets and stuff would probably crumble if I wanted them to. I'm more worried about the brackets for the suspension components. Does Toyota sell replacements If they need replacing? Weird thing is the front of the diff has almost zero rust on it.

 

[AaKnight]

I feel your pain. Mine looked about like yours. My lspv was rusted solid, and the brake backing plates rusted so bad they lost their Springs. My shackle that holds the panhard actually had to be repaired more than once because it rusted away and release the bolt.

My solution was to find a good used one at a salvage yard. I was able to find one locally for around 500. Mine came out of an old Lexus lx450 that looked like it had been taken care of. I had it sandblasted and then I used a corrosion resistant paint I got on eBay, supposed to be comprable to por.

Has been a year, and the paint has held up great. It's nice having e brakes again, and cosmetically, it makes a big difference.

 

[AaKnight]

btw, if you're interested the paint I use is Tamco DTM black. It has anti-corrosive chemical properties, and is intended to be applied direct to metal, it sticks to sandblasted metal like a dream, it's easy to shoot and in my opinion is much better than p o r.


Link:

2K Black DTM/Direct to Rust Primer-QUART -Chassis Black 2K Urethane with HH193 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2K Black DTM/Direct to Rust Primer-QUART -Chassis Black 2K Urethane with HH193 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

rover.ebay.com

 

[cowboyjack]

Hey! Thanks! That looks like great paint. Have you used any of their other products?

Sorry for hijack.

btw, if you're interested the paint I use is Tamco DTM black. It has anti-corrosive chemical properties, and is intended to be applied direct to metal, it sticks to sandblasted metal like a dream, it's easy to shoot and in my opinion is much better than p o r.


Link:

2K Black DTM/Direct to Rust Primer-QUART -Chassis Black 2K Urethane with HH193 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2K Black DTM/Direct to Rust Primer-QUART -Chassis Black 2K Urethane with HH193 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

rover.ebay.com

 

[AaKnight]

That looks like great paint. Have you used any of their other products?

actually, yes, I have used their body primer for a non-automotive project and loved it as well.

When I bought the black for the axle, I actually called up to their office and talked to one of their representatives who was happy to substitute a slow reducer for me instead of the medium that came with it. We had a nice long technical conversation. I like that Company, because they seem to treat the little guys just like the big guys. If you have any questions about their paints, Google their company and give them a call, they will talk to you one-on-one and answer them.


IMO, for the price, the quality and service can't be beat. They are a small family owned company, and they mix their own chemicals. plus, none of the hassle of going to the local paint store, which in my area are about as bad as dealerships, unless you have a wholesale account.
Unless I need a color code mixed, if i need paint, I'll prob be getting it from these guys.

 

[whaler]

How much work do you want to do? If minimal just cover that thing in fluid film and reapply as needed. It will creep into the rust and most of the big flakes with just fall off or you can knock them off.

 

[LINUS]

The axle shell is easily sourced if yours is shot on the critical (4-link) brackets, all the others you can build up like the spring perches if yours are getting thin.

The 3rd member cover is possible to rebuild, but would be labor intensive unless you are determined to save yours.

If you go all the way to rust-free / blast it, I can’t say enough good about Tnemec primer here:

TNEMEC.com

The most advanced line of coatings in the world

www.tnemec.com

We used it on new & garnet blasted rusty pump cases, brushed it in for a thick coat - it stands up to weak/spent sulfuric acid even at ~150*

We’d pop holes in the pipes at work, and the topcoat paint would curl & peel inside ~20mins, but that primer would just turn a red stained color even having 2-3hrs of spray hitting it.
(Weak/spent sulfuric is more corrosive than virgin/strong acid, contrary to what common sense would make you think - most nasty stuff to get on you aside from molten sulfer where I work)

If you just wirebrush/wirewheel - POR15 needs a little rust to bond to & bite in. So unless you go crazy with sand or soda blast, POR15 is better there.

 

[HorseMeat]

Awesome, thanks for the replies. I'll work off all the rust I can with a wire wheel and put some POR on It and go from there. I'm from the jeep world where stuff like this is left alone because a 30 year old clapped out Cherokee isn't worth it haha. Now I gotta figure out what to do about the rust forming on the cross brace supporting my t case.

 

[HorseMeat]

Speaking of cross members, does anyone know if a 92 tranny cross member is compatible with a 96 FZJ? I know they have different trannys but as long as they are both autos would that work or should I just weld up a new one?

 

[BILT4ME]

Check with @slow95z and @arcteryx to see if they have rust-free crossmembers or axle housings for your year.

Another great option for paint is the John Deere Blitz Black and the epoxy primer that goes with it.

 

[ajordan1975]

Diamond Axles can hook you up if you want to go aftermarket. It can come as a bolt in, with all the proper brackets to bolt it up.

9.5 FJ Cruiser, 4Runner, GX470 Diamond Axle

The 9.5 FJ Cruiser, 4Runner, and GX470 Diamond Axle from Front Range Off-Road Fabrication is a direct bolt-in axle that requires ZERO driveshaft modification!

frontrangeoffroadfab.com

 

[GOTLOCKED96]

What is this bracket/joint?

 

[greentruck]

What is this bracket/joint?

LSPV

 

[GOTLOCKED96]

LSPV

thanks!