Rust stop electronics for 24V

[Eric Winkworth]

I was talking with a guy at work how I krown my truck every year and how I hate rust. He started talking about electornic rust control devices. I didn't know anything about them and was pretty secptical. After seaching the net I found some good faq's on how they work and it makes sense.

any one ever used or have any ideas on the subject?

here a webpage I was looking at
http://www.ruststopnorthamerica.com/index.htm

prices aren't outrages at all if it actually works.

they have them in 6v, 12v and 24v models

 

[crushers]

I was talking with a guy at work how I krown my truck every year and how I hate rust. He started talking about electornic rust control devices. I didn't know anything about them and was pretty secptical. After seaching the net I found some good faq's on how they work and it makes sense.

any one ever used or have any ideas on the subject?

here a webpage I was looking at
http://www.ruststopnorthamerica.com/index.htm

prices aren't outrages at all if it actually works.

they have them in 6v, 12v and 24v models

i did a search a couple years ago and after tons of reading and a few guys i chatted with, i came to the conclusion it was balony... but that is just me.
i never tried it so i do not have first hand experience....
Krowning seems to work ...

 

[Eric Winkworth]

Ya I really thought it sounded like balony too, does any one else know if rust has anything to do with protons and netrons? Or is this claim only from the people that created this product.

Ya the krown is for sure great stuff.

 

[Kon]

the theory is basically when steel/iron rusts there is a difference in charge, ie rusted area is negatively charged and cleaner areas are positively charged (water/salt/oxygen will cause this charge difference) so by using a sacrificial piece of metal and a constant link between the two, the sacrificial metal will rust not the cruiser

this is correct in theory, its been proven in labs etc.. real world? no idea!

this sacrificial metal approach is used in a few places iv heard of (im currently studying mech engineering) but if its possible to have a little box, some wires and some lumps of metal protecting the entire cruiser, im skeptical.

hope that made sense

 

[expat]

Dip you cruiser in a conductive solution and it will work just fine... otherwise I'm sceptical.

 

[OZCAL]

I've been talked out of it better than I've been talked in to it...

 

[84BJ42]

I am pretty skeptical of those electronic rust proofing devices. There are probably so many different alloys of metal used on our cruisers that we have numerous galvanic cells produced (charge differential) causing oxidation/reduction. I would think that you would probably have to make sure all the dissimilar metals were connected to the sacrificial anode or electronic rust proof device (stainless steel bolts, welded in panels, aluminum diamond plate, etc…). Therefore as suggested before immerse your cruiser in a conductive fluid and you are probably good to go. That is why outboard motors and steel boat hulls have sacrificial anodes. Underground storage tanks also have sacrificial anodes; however they are not exposed to as much oxygen and are commonly in contact with groundwater at least through infiltration.

 

[Eric Winkworth]

isn't water a conductive fluid?

 

[Technikev]

Yeah, but if you immerse your cruiser in it, rust is probably the least of your concerns...

-kevin

 

[Eric Winkworth]

still even when it rains or just moisture in the air should help too, not saying i'm wasting my money on that thing, I like my oilings and i'm thinking of PORing the entire undercarrage of my cruiser this summer.

 

[crushers]

dude this is where i disagree with most. i do not recommending PORing for the simple reasons you can not see what is going on underneath till it is too late and you can not touch the stuff up.
keep oiling and if you want clean the frame and give it a fresh coat of paint and then oil again...
of course this is just my opinion.

 

[Eric Winkworth]

I don't understand, I'm not going over top of rust or oil, I plan on sandblasting the frame and underside of tub, actetoning, using POR's marine clean and then go through the hole process, should take me the better part of my vacation, but it will be nice and clean when i'm done, then go get it re oiled.

are you saying you would rather use regular rust paint, not POR? I kind of know what you mean, but as long as you re apply oil I can't see it being a bad thing at all.

i'm not going to do any half assed job, it is going to be a long cleaning and preping process, I will for sure take some before and after pics to show you how it turns out.

I also have some stainless brake lines that will go on after and new fuel line also.

 

[crushers]

it is almost impossible to get the POR inside the frame properly and that is where the rust is going to eat it's way out from but you will not be able to tell under the POR. if you do get rust under that stuff then the repair job is much harder, nothing sticks to POR so if you do a repair then it is almost impossible to get even POR to stick to hardened POR.
at least with paint you can see what is happening, sand weld and repaint...
like i said this is just my opinion from using the stuff. i think the word that i am looking for is HATE. i really hate that stuff. PITA to apply, highly toxic, non-repairable...
i wish you the best

 

[expat]

I have no experience with POR. But if it were so great, why wouldn't it be used in OEM or other than automotive applications? I've never seen it used on ships or in industrial applications.

There are some great "coatings" out there these days.

 

[Eric Winkworth]

Thats why I post on the fourm for expert opinions, I don't know much about this stuff myself. I've just herd about people using the POR looked it up read the FAQ's and figured I owuld try it. I didn't buy it yet. I appreciate the advice to be honest.

Do you have any idea's on specific paint I should use?

I'm really picky when it comes to my truck, I usally spray a few cans of rust check or some krown stuff ( I bought a 5 gallon bucket full) into my frame every month or so, when I do my oil change. She is well oiled inside the frame, IMO the worst spot for rust to start by the look of it.

 

[crushers]

clean your frame well and use Zero Rust. i have had good results with this stuf and just reapply when you feel the need...

 

[Eric Winkworth]

ok great, any chance you have a CDN supplyer for this?

Website? Phone #

Price?

thanks a bunch for the advice, I didn't know reapplying the POR was impossible, nice to have tips from people that see this stuff.

cheers

 

[crushers]

http://www.zerorust.com/

 

[brownbear]

if your used to using epoxy paints and crap like that the por isn't soo bad.
I've been using POR on my truck. It's easy to sand to reapply more if needed. It bonds really good if the prep is good.

problem with sand blasting the frame and doing the por thing is when sand blasting the frame you will get some inside. ANd the you will not be able to prep and get a good coat of por in there. I would grind the frame clean....even if some rust is still there. do the POR steps and paint it with por. since your oiling the frame with such zeal you are not going to have a problem.

One thing to consider, with the amount of oil you have used I doubt you can actually get the frame clean enough to paint. the oil will be soaked into the pores of the metal.

I am only doing the exterior of my frame with por. the inside is going to be frequent oiling.

Also I am doing all my body work in POR. I want to seal the recycled metal. I am cleaning the metal with a 40 grit. Sand blasting welds to get impurities. Marin clean/metal ready. Paint 2 coats of POR. body work with POR filler and straight line filler(their product) and then sanding lightly. Then using tie coat primer(meant to stick to POR). its high build primer, so next I sand that smooth and add a little standard filler to get perfect(reasonable). Then I will use a another high adhesion primer such as PPG epoxy. The its a top coat.

That should "seal" it up.

I like the finished product POR delivers,but I have not seen it in the real world after a few years....... for my undercarrige I am not relying on it. oiling will be the saver.

 

[Eric Winkworth]

i'm starting to think I should just go get er oiled again and call it a day.

These frames seem to rot more from the inside out then anything. Keep the inside oily as heck and she will be good