Rust Proofing

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matthias said:
Hello,

I bought a 89 Bj74 and am looking at rust proofing options. Any body has any experience with this stuff, it's used in aviation? Unlike rust check it is does not harm rubber and it also may not dissapear as quick as rust check.

http://www.lpslabs.com/products/CorrosionInh/Lps3.asp

I was also looking at Waxoyl but it does not seem to be available in Canada.

Thanks
Matthias
Click to expand...

I've used the LPS3 and it is ok. Boesheild is another that is used in the aviation industry. Both seem thinner then the stuff designed for the automotive environment. I prefer the 3M Rust Proofing as it seems to leave a thicker wax base after the carrier evaporates. Proform also has an amber oil/wax base permenant rust proofing that leaves a nice thick coat of wax after it has creeped. Both the 3M and Proform can be bought in Aerosol or liquid (if you have a sprayer).

Fluid Film penetrates well.

There is a recipie on line for making your own Waxoyl.

I've mixed and matched making witches brew of Boeshield, 3M, and fluid film...

Try these links for further discussion and ideas: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=40901&highlight=rust+proofing

hth's

gb
 
Thanks for the info. Might try lps3 this year maybe 3 M next year.

Other than the obvious (doors), are there any hidden cavities on a BJ74 that I should know about when rust proofing the truck. I know wheel wells. bulkhead, winshield frame, rockers anything that I'm missing?

I have to say btw, the BJ74 is the best car/truck I've ever owned. (I don't know if that means anything coming from a Land rover guy)

Matthias
 
all seams are good to spray into. Remove the cargo covers over the rear wheel wells, spray into them.

The sill areas, thru the holes in the sill cover.

The roof, go thru holes under handles. Or drill small holes all around and spray with a straw.

All underneath.

LPS 3 is good, but in exposed areas will need reapply each year. It will wash off. I used to use it regularly on seaplanes.
 
You want something that is oily and stays oily. Something that dries completely hard is going to crack. Once you have cracks it's just a matter of time before the metal behind rusts out as moisture will collect in the cracks. Fluid film works well.
 
in the back corners near the edges of the door opening in the floor there is a double seam that needs attention.
most miss the lower front fenders behind the door area but after the door opening towards the front...

the best way is to go look at a Canadian spec rusted unit... there you go...
 
Thanks for the replies. I ordered FPS 3. I'll probably inspect the underneat every 6 months and touch things up.
 
My advice is to spray on the inside of the truck as well as the underneath. Anything that cannot be accessed should be drilled for a hole to spray into. Then use a snap in plastic plug after.
 
Well, the LPS3 was put on. Seems easy to put on stays waxy/semi fluid but doesn't drip like rust check. I think I got all the spots. Thanks for all the advice.
 
Make sure all dirt, sand, salt, and moisture has been removed prior to spraying on LPS or Fluid Film. We switched from using LPS to Fluid Film for endurance on our aircraft, but found that the preservatives trap existing materials and have allowed corrosion to continue underneath, similar to an undercoat.
 
For a $125.00 I get my truck Rust Checked twice a year. So $250.00 a year.
Especially since the regional government switched to spraying the roads with a Calcium brim solution here, it gets into everything on the truck. It is even hard on glass.. Another smart government idea gone wrong..:confused:
About the only way to combat it is to get every thing sprayed & I do.

So after a winter of my truck taking this abuse all seem to be well.. No extra rust..yet anyway..

They drilled it, they spray it and I pull the rear panels over the rear wheels so that they get in it real good..
The guy asks me now how wet I want it (which applies to how much of the product they spray in) I always say drench it..or sink it. and believe me when I say they do .. When I leave there you could follow my drips to my door I'm sure... I can live with drips on my driveway. I can not live with my truck rusting.
The drenching gives the rustcheck time to creep & penetrate. I'm due again to go now.
It is 6 months later and I can still see the old rust check on different parts of my truck..

Just my way of combating that nasty suff .:grinpimp:
 
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