I live where the roads get a combination of sand and salt sometimes brine in the winter. I am considering buying Fluid Film to spray onto the 200 Series, and heard this is a good product to reduce the spread of rust. Does the fluid film coating just get washed off with the next several undercarriage car washes? Thoughts on how to best tackle the rust dilemma? Thank you, I get it there's not simple solution, just looking to see what others are doing.
Rust Prevention or reductions: Fluid Film Product any good? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter ElkRig
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I prefer the lighter stuff that isn't full on cosmoline type wax. But my area is just getting into salting over the last decade so my experience isn't like full the rust belt cancer.
This is what I have been running: Rodent Defense Vehicle Protection Archives - https://nhoilundercoating.com/product-category/mouse-out/
3 rattle cans will cover the 200 chassis pretty well and it supposedly deters mice too. It is cheaper by the gallon if you have a pressure pot sprayer (that is what I am doing next fall).
This is what I have been running: Rodent Defense Vehicle Protection Archives - https://nhoilundercoating.com/product-category/mouse-out/
3 rattle cans will cover the 200 chassis pretty well and it supposedly deters mice too. It is cheaper by the gallon if you have a pressure pot sprayer (that is what I am doing next fall).
i live in maryland, moderately salty roads in winter compared to places north. however we also regularly drive on costal beaches in assateague and on the outer banks in nc, so it sees plenty of salt and sand. have been using fluid film rattle can with the extension tube to get inside the frame/nooks. first application many years ago took me about 6 cans ( applied late summer/fall while its still warm enough for the product to spread naturally with heat). ever since i apply about 2 cans annually once again in late summer/fall just to do touch ups as the product mixes with road dirt to create a messy yet highly effective barrier for moisture, so the only very tiny amount of rust i do have are surface/metal fittings near areas of high heat where it does burn off quickly and also near rubber/foam parts that i intentionally avoid due to the possibility of expansion of those pieces. makes it a bit more difficult to see drips and leaks in certain areas as it is oily in nature (doesn't harden). it does wash away faster esp on the lower control arms, skids, the sides of the frame near the kdss control valves (i use marine grease here) and other highly exposed bits but still good coverage/endurance on a 12 month reapplication cycle.
even though it makes my undercarriage pretty filthy, its been a very cost effective way to keep rust from being the thing that kills this machine.
this stuff works well
I apply every year towards end of summer while there are still hot days which will help wick the oil into seams/etc
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They sell kits as well as formula's that rodents dont like.
prharper
GOLD Star
I've tried a few different ones.
Two seasons with Fluid Film. It smells for weeks.
One season with Wool Wax which doesn't smell as bad and it's thicker.
Used this gun to apply both fluids which are lanolin based.
I've since switched to Corrosion Free which is out of Canada. It's not lanolin based and doesn't stink. It holds up well and doesn't drip.
I purchased the Deluxe kit with the nicer two-stage applicator gun and a gallon of fluid. It comes with flexible wands to get into tight spots, door sill etc. I use ~ 2 applicator gun refills to do the entire truck. I can get two seasons out of a gallon jug. Shipping is super fast. No rust, no stink, no complaints.
corrosionfree.com
Two seasons with Fluid Film. It smells for weeks.
One season with Wool Wax which doesn't smell as bad and it's thicker.
Used this gun to apply both fluids which are lanolin based.
I've since switched to Corrosion Free which is out of Canada. It's not lanolin based and doesn't stink. It holds up well and doesn't drip.
I purchased the Deluxe kit with the nicer two-stage applicator gun and a gallon of fluid. It comes with flexible wands to get into tight spots, door sill etc. I use ~ 2 applicator gun refills to do the entire truck. I can get two seasons out of a gallon jug. Shipping is super fast. No rust, no stink, no complaints.
Corrosion FREE | Non-Toxic And No Drip Rust Proofing
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corrosionfree.com
- Thread starter
- #6
Thank you for the response. I appreciate the tips and information. Best of luck out East!
I live in Minnesota and Fluid Film kept my 4Runner frame rust free for 5 winters before I sold it. I did the same treatment on my LX when I got it.
I usually do one thorough coating upon purchase and then touch ups with a can or two throughout the year as I see it wearing off or before the winter season. I rinse the undercarriage thoroughly in the spring and a few times throughout the winter at a DIY carwash. Always been good for me.
It is messy and does stink for a while after applying it but it has been worth it for me.
I usually do one thorough coating upon purchase and then touch ups with a can or two throughout the year as I see it wearing off or before the winter season. I rinse the undercarriage thoroughly in the spring and a few times throughout the winter at a DIY carwash. Always been good for me.
It is messy and does stink for a while after applying it but it has been worth it for me.
There's a lot of good products which have been discussed on this site. But remember, anything is infinitely better than doing nothing. Definitely get under there and bomb anything you can see.. once in the Spring, and once in the Fall.
It doesnt get washed off very easily at all. I love Fluid Film....been using it on my FJC for about 10 years now and its looking great overall.
I do dislike how messy working on it is, but thats about it. I didnt even reapply it this year since it only saw about 5-6K miles.
I do dislike how messy working on it is, but thats about it. I didnt even reapply it this year since it only saw about 5-6K miles.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I blast where the 4 jounce bumpers attach with a spray can once or twice a year. They fill up with water, rust out and it's a tricky grinding and welding job to fix them.
Anyway, I just had a mechanic that I was having lube my u joints & drive shaft tell me BOTH my CV covers were leaking. With my LC on the lift, I asked him to show me (my vehicle has almost 26K miles) and he pointed to the fluid film all over the jounce mounts.
If you looked up at the CV's they were dry.
I explained the fluid film to him.
Some mechanic huh?
Anyway, I just had a mechanic that I was having lube my u joints & drive shaft tell me BOTH my CV covers were leaking. With my LC on the lift, I asked him to show me (my vehicle has almost 26K miles) and he pointed to the fluid film all over the jounce mounts.
If you looked up at the CV's they were dry.
I explained the fluid film to him.
Some mechanic huh?
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Hard-On™ Permanent hard coating for truck frames and equipment
This stuff is the newest and so fer the best I have used. And I have used everything.
I run Fluid Film or its sister product, Wool Wax.
Yes it does a good job. Yes it does get washed off over time. A single pass through the car wash won't take it off but if you go through a lot then it might slowly take it off. By the next fall, its mostly gone except for a thin film. My suggestion would be to spray it on heavy and don't wash the underside of the car until spring, let the fluid film do its job.
I will also tell you that its not a fun job to do on your own. Its doable but I recommend getting the air gun to apply it an buy it in gallons. The rattle cans take forever and you need a million of them. Additionally, working on the vehicle after sucks because everything is just covered in snot.
Yes it does a good job. Yes it does get washed off over time. A single pass through the car wash won't take it off but if you go through a lot then it might slowly take it off. By the next fall, its mostly gone except for a thin film. My suggestion would be to spray it on heavy and don't wash the underside of the car until spring, let the fluid film do its job.
I will also tell you that its not a fun job to do on your own. Its doable but I recommend getting the air gun to apply it an buy it in gallons. The rattle cans take forever and you need a million of them. Additionally, working on the vehicle after sucks because everything is just covered in snot.
I bought cans of this but not really need it living in the South. Used it at the 2" tow hitch frame side and on the inside of the bottom of the doors after I applied Dynamat on 95% of the area, to prevent preferential rust at the bottom. It does dry up none sticky and is claimed to stay flexible. Comes in orange/yellow which i have and in black. Seems good stuff.
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Fluid film, wool wax, waxoyl, Krown, all are good. Only things I have used and they do the job with no mess. If it isn’t lanolin based your missing out.
Need to work? A squirt of brake or suspension clean takes it right off.
Need to work? A squirt of brake or suspension clean takes it right off.
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It isn’t bad to do, takes maybe 45 minutes once a year to do inside the doors, fenders, rockers, tail gate, inside and out of the frame, spare tire mount, and the suspension, and takes 6 cans for a Land Cruiser
This is just your basic normal undercoating. Using that alone is arguably worse than leaving it with the OEM finish (looks nice forever until it rusts out from the inside). They even say right in their wording you should use a cavity wax with it, which is essentially what Fluid Film and other 'creeping' undercoats are.
Salt-Away sprayed everywhere followed by Fluid Film will keep the rust critters away. FF is available in one/five gal sizes, sprayed w a gun goes a lot further/easier to manage than the rattle can.
I find the 'hard setting" stuff can sometimes be problematic on some of the underside mechanicals.
I find the 'hard setting" stuff can sometimes be problematic on some of the underside mechanicals.
I've done it before with the rattle cans. Once. Then I bought the airgun after that.
Yeah airgun is better if you have a compressor.
