Rust concerns on '16 LC from PA

[Fackled1]

I have been looking for a LC for a couple of years now and always seem to be too late to grab the good ones that occasionally go up for sale in Phoenix. I am not desperate for a LC as I have a 16 4Runner trail premium as my DD and I love it but always have had a soft spot for LC's. I found a '16 LC at Camelback Toyota here in PHX that at first glance looks decent until I got the Sales guy to send me the undercarriage pics.... The truck was originally from Pittsburg PA which immediately turned me off as I know all about the damage to cars in New England from Salt and whatever else they are using to spray the roads in the winter. The dealer is offering the truck as a Toyota Certified vehicle. It currently has 74k miles on it which is nothing for a LC but I wanted to get some opinions from others on the amount of rust/salt damage and if this is pointless to even consider. My biggest concerns are the KDSS lines and fittings on the frame and I was also reading on this forum about the KDSS valve on the canister rusting on LC's for owners on East Coast and Midwest. Several of my friends who have 80,100, 200 series are telling my no F*&^%$# way don't buy it and not that I don't appreciate and value their input but just wanted to get some others thoughts on if this 200 is a lost cause.

Video from TONY TORRES - Camelback Toyota - https://vidmails.com/v/t8u35M8NL6 frame/rust issues are at 1:40 in the video and they only sent me the drivers side images

 

[teambell]

2100 miles from Pittsburg to Phoenix via car, the carfax shows ~1000 miles from the last inspection in PA till dealer listing, so probably was on a truck, maybe sold at auction, also a long time early this year with no activity after putting 11K miles on it in 3 months. Just sharing my observations in addition to the undercarriage rust. I would pass on this one but I have no desire to have any rust.

Oh, and welcome to MUD!

 

[bronc076]

I lived in AZ for 20 years. I have a couple old trucks that are native AZ vehicles with zero rust. One is a 1990 F350, work truck Cab & Chassis with a service body/bed. It has over 250,000 miles and it still has the bar code stickers on the frame.

I can not imagine having a vehicle from PA when you live in AZ. More damage is done to the undercarriage in the first winter in PA than a lifetime in AZ. But that's opinion and you really need to go crawl all over the vehicle and judge for yourself.

I'm going with a hard pass. I just looked it up on Autotrader. Is it the silver one with the rusty trailer hitch receiver?

 

[Fackled1]

2100 miles from Pittsburg to Phoenix via car, the carfax shows ~1000 miles from the last inspection in PA till dealer listing, so probably was on a truck, maybe sold at auction, also a long time early this year with no activity after putting 11K miles on it in 3 months. Just sharing my observations in addition to the undercarriage rust. I would pass on this one but I have no desire to have any rust.

Oh, and welcome to MU

 

[Fackled1]

Thank you! I appreciate the feedback! I have been in AZ for 40 yrs and have never dealt with rust on my cars. It scares the hell out me to even contemplate buying and east coast car because of the rust/salt damage. The search continues .....

 

[Fackled1]

I lived in AZ for 20 years. I have a couple old trucks that are native AZ vehicles with zero rust. One is a 1990 F350, work truck Cab & Chassis with a service body/bed. It has over 250,000 miles and it still has the bar code stickers on the frame.

I can not imagine having a vehicle from PA when you live in AZ. More damage is done to the undercarriage in the first winter in PA than a lifetime in AZ. But that's opinion and you really need to go crawl all over the vehicle and judge for yourself.

I'm going with a hard pass. I just looked it up on Autotrader. Is it the silver one with the rusty trailer hitch receiver?

Yep thats the one.

 

[Sandroad]

I don’t think it’s a lost cause. It‘s treatable rust. I’d make the decision based on other things. I have no knowledge of how hard these are to find in AZ, but they must be a bit scarce if a dealer is getting them from PA. It’s a big plus to me it’s a CPO.

 

[bronc076]

I get it, I was shopping for on for years when I lived in AZ, and east coast prices are very attractive compared to AZ used car prices, the desert brings a premium, unless all the paint is burnt off, which is the downside to living out there.

 

[Fackled1]

I don’t think it’s a lost cause. It‘s treatable rust. I’d make the decision based on other things. I have no knowledge of how hard these are to find in AZ, but they must be a bit scarce if a dealer is getting them from PA. It’s a big plus to me it’s a CPO.

West Coast LC's that are clean are as rare as unobtanium . In the last 3-4 months good clean 200 series under $60k are non existent.....

 

[bronc076]

You like Blue? This one looks good if it has a clean carfax.

Carson City NV

 

[Fackled1]

You like Blue? This one looks good if it has a clean carfax.

Carson City NV

I prefer white ..... white hides the AZ pinstripes that will end up all over it from the cactus and tree scratches hahahaha

 

[bloc]

I can not imagine having a vehicle from PA when you live in AZ. More damage is done to the undercarriage in the first winter in PA than a lifetime in AZ.

THIS.

People that deal with salt every winter will have different opinions, but to them it is a fact of life, and that informs their advice. It doesn’t have to be a factor at all for someone in Texas, or Arizona, or large chunks of the country.

I get that you are waiting, but the potential decade or more of infinitely easier work and lack of feeling that it’s just a matter of time until major parts start falling off the thing is more than enough justification to keep looking. Leave these “acceptable” trucks for the people that live where anything they drive will dissolve eventually anyway, and keep the clean ones where they’ll remain on the road.

 

[stonepa]

What rust?

 

[Fackled1]

What rust?

We are very spoiled in the desert... aside from rock chips, oxidized paint, clear coat peeling, and replacing batteries every 2 years not much else can happen to a vehicle out here in AZ.

 

[RET2]

I prefer white ..... white hides the AZ pinstripes that will end up all over it from the cactus and tree scratches hahahaha

I'd be wary of a dealer that posts original sticker price and only gives a 9K "discount" for 5 years usage. Vehicle may be sound but dealer sounds shady.

 

[WCDAVE]

Wire brush on an angle grinder and some Boeshield and you are good to go. Overpay for a rust-free example or buy a new one are other alternatives. Everything is a trade off. The previous owner likely didn’t do annual maintenance on welds - most normal people don’t. Land Cruisers operate around the world in extreme environments. To the best of my knowledge, frames rusting out is typically not what does them in. There are companies that take all of the rust off of 40 frames, galvanize them and they’re good to go for another 50 years. That rust in the video, especially if addressed now, will not affect your time in the vehicle (or the next couple of owners). Your money and decision, but these rust related hand-wringing posts always crack me up. I recommend driving it. See if it feels solid or is creaking like it’s on its last legs. You might find it to be a nice runner. The CPO should cover the KDSS and other systems.

I hope you find your dream ride.

***edit: did not see the price. It’s not any kind of deal and you likely won’t get them down $15 grand based on rust if it’s CPO.

 

[Sandroad]

There's a nice silver '!4 with a good maintenance record at Sunshine Toyota in Battle Creek, which I know to be good dealer. I think it would be too bad to reject it out of hand just because it's been in OH and MI, but I know many on Mud would.

 

[bloc]

Lol… wire brush and boeshield aren’t fixing LCA or exhaust bolts seizing and breaking.

 

[WCDAVE]

Lol… wire brush and boeshield aren’t fixing LCA or exhaust bolts seizing and breaking.

I watched a different video. Front and rear LCA bolts are galvanized and look to be in good shape.

Having said that, it’s still over-priced in my opinion.

 

[bloc]

I watched a different video. Front and rear LCA bolts are galvanized and look to be in good shape. View attachment 2713205View attachment 2713206Having said that, it’s still over-priced in my opinion.

The bolt heads often look fine but the non-galvanized inner bushing sleeves are actually rusted solid to the bolt and subframe. Not to mention the exhaust.

Point is, on a rust-free vehicle, none of this is an issue, even if you can address the frame rust on a rig with elbow grease and special treatments.