Running too lean and stall when taking foot off brake or reversing (1 Viewer)

[fowlerjk]

Predecessor to this...I got the "won't start" issue first, which appeared to be an immobilizer issue, but that has seemingly gone away in lieu of this.

I get an intermittent "too lean" error code and the following symptoms:

• Sometimes will not start when engine is hot; fixed by goosing the throttle IMMEDIATELY upon cranking
• Threatens to stall out when put in reverse
• Threatens to stall out when releasing brake and applying gas

This LC100 is new to me, acquired in November. I have experience with Land Rover Discovery models. This is my first LC.

What should I start chasing?

 

[Biga27110]

Any misfire codes? Im thinking lean it has a fuel issue or crack in intake for unmetered air.

Fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors?

What year is the truck?

 

[fowlerjk]

Any misfire codes? Im thinking lean it has a fuel issue or crack in intake for unmetered air.

Fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors?

What year is the truck?

2001. No code lately but I think it’s fired 1071 before. It won’t be long before it does again.

Also just stalled out on a right right turn.

 

[Biga27110]

2001. No code lately but I think it’s fired 1071 before. It won’t be long before it does again.

Also just stalled out on a right right turn.

Have you pulled the MAF and throttle body to clean. I would try to baseline everything. The senior members of the board will probably post the exact solution.

 

[fowlerjk]

I can definitely pull those, I did that when I replaced the valve covers on my Land Rover. I wonder if I have a fuel filter or pump issue. This seems to only happen at higher temperatures. Reminiscent of my 1996 Discovery, which ultimately resulted in me getting a new fuel pump.

If it helps, I have the TechStream software.

 

[fowlerjk]

Update!

I replaced the fuel filter and MAF. Ran BG44k through my tank as well. Does better on cold starts and seems to run smoother, but the problem continues with a hot engine. I have new codes as well: P0441 and P0446. This is an evap system issue, looks like?

 

[2001LC]

Stalls related to motion like in turns. Is very often, a short. Number one being loose battery connection. Check all connection from and to: alternator, battery, fuse box and starter.

98-05 bad Fuel pump or going bad. We tend to see crank no start. Then it will start. Then again crank no start. This sometimes goes on for years. Other times, dead on first occurrence.
When crank no start happens, and security light is off. Stop and disconnect fuel line from downstream of fuel filter (squeeze green clip to release fuel line):

• If the fuel pump was pumping, you'll get a spray of gasoline as fuel pressure released. WARNING: Fuel vapor is highly combustible, open flame, one spark, even high heat can ignite it.
• If no fuel pressure released. Likely bad fuel pump. Can also be circuit to fuel pump, not getting 12 Volts power to pump. Fuel tend to fail over 250K miles, but seen it even at 150K miles on 98-05.

Fuel filters, do get clogged. Always replaced when replacing fuel pump. Or just as a baseline during turn up.


Evap DTC:
Check gas cap (seal), and that cap tight (one or more clicks).
Look at gas cap fill area. Is dirty crudy looking. If so, likely sign of fuel boiling. Which is often a sign of, a contaminated charcoal canister. We may then see, engine stalls when hot. When coming to a stop at a red light/stop sign. This is not common in the 98-02, but happens.

Make sure engine well tuned:
This includes making sure all spark plugs and all vacuum lines good. Also that, coolant systems working as it should.
Check all EVAP line and the VSV (vacuum switching valve) on BK1 side on intake manifold, and the EVAP line vacuum line attached to it and fuel tank.

With turn up, especially when disconnect MAF. Disconnect battery negative post first (minimum 20 minutes), reattach last.

So often people buy spark plugs and coils off ebay, etc, Very often they're bootlegs. Good idea in a baseline of purchase of new vehicle. Replace spark plugs and at minim exam coils. If coils were replace (not factory originals) be very suspicious.

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

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I tried it and it tested good. Did you do a load test? I have had a lot of batteries show full voltage with no load only to die when the key was turned.

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Gas tank building excessive pressure & fuel smell. Dangerous for sure! Why does this happen?

DANGEROUS GAS PRESSURE BUILD UP IN GAS TANK! Why? What's going on? How can we fix this? Edited 3/15/25: Since first posting this thread. I've corrected many boiling fuel. By working in this order: Coolant system if first on the list, must be operating as designed. Which radiator fins cleaning...

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[fowlerjk]

Stalls related to motion like in turns. Is very often, a short. Number one being loose battery connection. Check all connection from and to: alternator, battery, fuse box and starter.

98-05 bad Fuel pump or going bad. We tend to see crank no start. Then it will start. Then again crank no start. This sometimes goes on for years. Other times, dead on first occurrence.
When crank no start happens, and security light is off. Stop and disconnect fuel line from downstream of fuel filter (squeeze green clip to release fuel line):

• If the fuel pump was pumping, you'll get a spray of gasoline as fuel pressure released. WARNING: Fuel vapor is highly combustible, open flame, one spark, even high heat can ignite it.
• If no fuel pressure released. Likely bad fuel pump. Can also be circuit to fuel pump, not getting 12 Volts power to pump. Fuel tend to fail over 250K miles, but seen it even at 150K miles on 98-05.

Fuel filters, do get clogged. Always replaced when replacing fuel pump. Or just as a baseline during turn up.


Evap DTC:
Check gas cap (seal), and that cap tight (one or more clicks).
Look at gas cap fill area. Is dirty crudy looking. If so, likely sign of fuel boiling. Which is often a sign of, a contaminated charcoal canister. We may then see, engine stalls when hot. When coming to a stop at a red light/stop sign. This is not common in the 98-02, but happens.

Make sure engine well tuned:
This includes making sure all spark plugs and all vacuum lines good. Also that, coolant systems working as it should.
Check all EVAP line and the VSV (vacuum switching valve) on BK1 side on intake manifold, and the EVAP line vacuum line attached to it and fuel tank.

With turn up, especially when disconnect MAF. Disconnect battery negative post first (minimum 20 minutes), reattach last.

So often people buy spark plugs and coils off ebay, etc, Very often they're bootlegs. Good idea in a baseline of purchase of new vehicle. Replace spark plugs and at minim exam coils. If coils were replace (not factory originals) be very suspicious.

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

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I tried it and it tested good. Did you do a load test? I have had a lot of batteries show full voltage with no load only to die when the key was turned.

forum.ih8mud.com

Gas tank building excessive pressure & fuel smell. Dangerous for sure! Why does this happen?

DANGEROUS GAS PRESSURE BUILD UP IN GAS TANK! Why? What's going on? How can we fix this? Edited 3/15/25: Since first posting this thread. I've corrected many boiling fuel. By working in this order: Coolant system if first on the list, must be operating as designed. Which radiator fins cleaning...

forum.ih8mud.com

You rock, sir.

I haven't checked the vacuum assembly yet, but did get a new (used) charcoal canister and replaced that yesterday. Test driving a bit indicates it has helped because situations in which I would stall out have gone smoothly. No codes thrown yet with new canister. If I run into another problem, I'll be running down your list here.

 

[fowlerjk]

Well, spoke too soon.
When engine is over 200F, I get major problems starting up and the fuel smell. So now I guess it’s time to look at the vacuum system. 441 and 446 thrown again.

Died when pulling in a driveway. Tried to restart, goosed the throttle, and BAM! Something under the hood popped. Opened hood, intake from air filter to throttle body was on fire right at the rectangular intake (whatever that is). Apparently the vapors made it there. It is currently being towed to my mechanic. I cringe to think at what the cost will be but I know he will solve the issue instead of chasing it like me.

Update: shop has to replace all the intake stuff and something on the throttle cable that is missing. Then they can fix the evap problem. I made a nearly $2,000 mistake by blowing up the intake.