running rough (1 Viewer)

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Listen to it again ....when you was inside i could see where you would think KNOCK but that sounds like s***ty exhaust.

When standing outside at the fender all i could hear was yes exhaust but the bad loop and the familer sound of:D tractor lifters/valves.
 
thanks for the help guys. i will be dealing with this tomorrow as it's going to be dark in an hour or so.
One more question...i have to drive my daughter to Marysville and this is my only ride. will i be flubbing it up any more by driving it 50 miles round trip?
Your oil pressure looked good along engine temp.


Just check all your fluids and i think you MIGHT be ok.....but if you can check that carb bolts(4) to make sure they are tight where they bolt to the intake.
 
The starter thing is just a odd thing to have with the vac/air leak. The exhaust does sound pretty rough too though! All tough to decipher via the net. Might not hurt to tighten the intake manifold bolts too...
 
The starter thing is just a odd thing to have with the vac/air leak. The exhaust does sound pretty rough too though! All tough to decipher via the net. Might not hurt to tighten the intake manifold bolts too...
yea that is odd i agree.....maybe another issue altogether .

:Dmaybe time for a tuneup
 
Cheers

I'll Get On It In The Morning (except those bolts to tighten). Until Then:
CHEERS-SALVATOR.jpg
 
yeah - i didn't make it more than ten miles before i stalled and turned around. took 5 minutes of rest before it'd start again. the whole way home (from ramp from 315 to 270 to grandview) I couldn't go more than 50 and it was bogged down pretty bad. i kind of knew i shouldn't attempt it but if i am to work on the truck tomorrow the kid's got to be MIA>
 
yeah - i didn't make it more than ten miles before i stalled and turned around. took 5 minutes of rest before it'd start again. the whole way home (from ramp from 315 to 270 to grandview) I couldn't go more than 50 and it was bogged down pretty bad. i kind of knew i shouldn't attempt it but if i am to work on the truck tomorrow the kid's got to be MIA>
:frown:keep us posted....if you see something that does not make sense take a picture and post up.
 
I got the 81-87 2F Engine manual around here somewhere if you get really stuck.
 
yeah - i didn't make it more than ten miles before i stalled and turned around. took 5 minutes of rest before it'd start again. the whole way home (from ramp from 315 to 270 to grandview) I couldn't go more than 50 and it was bogged down pretty bad. i kind of knew i shouldn't attempt it but if i am to work on the truck tomorrow the kid's got to be MIA>


How was the oil pressure and temp while you were driving?
 
Perhaps the converter is trashed? I have seen them cause simular problems before. My second guess would be tune up. G/L
 
both temp and pressure were dead nut center at all times. when i stopped (stalled) when i looked at the temp gauge it was maxxed out on hot but when i got it running after a few minutes it went right back down to the middle.

dsxrcirk - if by converter you mean that of the cat variety, it's had a huge hole in it for a year now. i don't see it.

i got new plugs today and a PCV valve (see my other post in the 60's tech section) with wires on order.
my carb looks super clean and from my PO's paperwork it was replaced just a few years ago.

i hope to be back in business tomorrow or the next day... my time is pretty valuable right now so it's not a good time to finally learn how to wrench on this thing.
although it is necessary.
 
Can't get the vid file to play on my 'puter.

But the description of the starter noise changing is a concern. If the engine cranks w/ an irregular beat, it indicates that some cylinders are much easier to turn over than others. Could be a loss of compression due to a failed head gasket, burned valve, broken piston...

Pull the plugs, run a compression test. If all is well, then it is not a major mechanical problem. Move on to the other systems: spark & fuel.
 
This is what scares me.

both temp and pressure were dead nut center at all times. when i stopped (stalled) when i looked at the temp gauge it was maxxed out on hot but when i got it running after a few minutes it went right back down to the middle.


Stop now, Take off your oil cap and look for some milky white goo under the cap, look at the rocker arms and look for the same goo. In your prior notes it stated that the head gasket was replaced before you owned it. This scares me. If you have gooey s*** in the upper vavle case then you are looking at a head gasket to a head job. A lot of people will replace the gasket without having the head machined, This works fine unless you have a small crack in the head itself or some warpage that will open back up. If no Goo then pull the spark plugs out and see what they look like. I suspect the number 6 plug will be much cleaner than the other plugs.

If all this looks kosher than you are back to vacuum issues, check all of the hard and soft lines, Including the advance to the distributor. If you have a vacuum gauge then plug it in and let us know how much pressure you are getting. I will be kicking around this weekend if you need a garage. Mine is always open. It is in Auburn Township though.....

Dave
 
ordered a new fuel pump since mine is spraying fuel all over. i think this was the problem all along. I got it on Friday night and will put it on today when the whaff gets back from running@ Blacklick park.
I did get a new pvc valve and plugs installed, searched for vacuum leaks, and the spotted the pump problem.

I'll report back!
 
well, it wasn't the fuel pump either. I installed it this evening along with the ignition wires I had ordered. I am afraid it's beyond me. I might have to pay a mechanic to diagnose it. On the up side, I am no longer leaking gas up front! But, I still can't idle without pulling the choke out far and the thing has NO acceleration. any other ideas?
 
Look three posts back and respond to what is up with your oil and the condition and any variations to the spark plugs.
Dave
 
i don't know how i ignored that suggestion.

looks like it was the white goo doing me in. it's under the cap and on the inner walls of the valve cover. didn't really see it on the rockers, but it's not important i suppose at this stage. How much does a damned head job cost? i suppose that is just machining it flat? Is getting the top off the engine something that a moderately novice person such as myself can do? f*u*c*k.
 
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