RTH TRE's

[SteamerF18]

I can't get the tie rod nut free on the passenger side steering knuckle arm. The bolt is spinning freely in the TRE so I can't advance the nut up the bolt. I've tried putting pressure on the knuckle arm and tie rod with a pickle fork, but the bolt still rotates.

I've run out of daylight so I'm going to have a few , swap the ends in the relay rods in the basement and wait for a new day tomorrow. Thanks in advance Mudders.

Scott

 

[SteamerF18]

After pondering a bit, and doing another Mud search, I'm thinking of just cutting the nut off with a cutoff wheel.

Anyone have any objections or suggestions? Thanks.

 

[morgan85]

get a big pair of channel locks and clamp the top and bottom. need to press the ball into the socket so you can loosen it. Once you get the nut off and if the tie rod wont come off just hit the knuckle with a big hammer and it will pop off do it that way at the shop all the time.

 

[snowbound1975]

I cut mine off with a cutoff wheel. It worked fine

 

[WallyWagon]

After failed attempts of some torch persuasion, I popped mine off and took them to a local shop - best $25 ever spent.

 

[SteamerF18]

I'm heading out to try the cutoff wheel, I'll report back. Once I free the complete tie rod from the front end, then I'll start to wrestle getting the TRE's out of the relay/ tie rods. My attempt last night was thwarted by rusty threads, hopefully an overnight dousing of PB Blaster will be the ticket I need. Thanks to all.

 

[nuclearlemon]

bfh, pound it up into the steering arm to force it into place. try tightening the nut first to make sure it's seated, then back it off.

 

[SteamerF18]

A cutting wheel, a vise grip and channel locks removed the offending nut. One more end off the tie rod, currently soaking in more PB Blaster, and I'm ready to reassemble on my rig.

One more question, the FSM says the relay rod should be 32.91" when assembled. I don't see how that can be the case with both ends installed even bottomed out. I counted the threads before disassembly and I'm matching that on install so I figure I'll be okay. The tie rod length in the FSM marries up with what I have, just not the relay rod.

Is this a typo in the FSM or am I missing something? (I guess that makes two questions )

Thanks!

 

[SteamerF18]

Almost done HELP!

Found my answer to the relay rod length on the forum, not sure where in the FSM it is as I haven't had time to look. My #'s check out so install is almost complete.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/252617-1985-fj60-wagon-steering-problem.html#post3887263

Having an issue as I torque down the TRE's on the pass. side. If I go to minimum torque value, the hole for the cotter pin is a bit above the castellated nut. I read someone having the same issue and I recollect a recommendation to put a washer to make up the difference. I'm not sure if this is a temp or allowable permanent fix. I'm using 555 TRE's and as best I can tell I'm doing everything in accordance with the FSM.

I can post pics if needed. Thanks!

 

[SteamerF18]

All done! (I hope)

The Good:
Test drive complete, near Ferrari handling quality. I can't say I've ever driven a Prancing Horse, but never let the truth get in the way of a good story. I'm sure the combination of new TRE's, wheel and knuckle bearings combine to better feel. My rig tracks straight and true.

The Others:
I used a stainless lock washer on the pass. side TRE's, the only solution I could come up with on my own to keep the cotter pin inside the nut.

When tracking straight, my steering wheel is off by a quarter turn. I assume this will be addressed with the professional alignment tomorrow.

I noticed a bit of grease oozing out of the pass. side TRE boot, there is a pin hole on the front. I was extra careful with my new kit, obviously not careful enough. I'll talk to Kurt about sourcing a replacement boot.

My thanks to those who chimed in on this and other threads. I had everything on hand and my experience was just as expected, with the usual headaches I bring upon myself. I welcome any comments on my list of others.

Time for a

 

[snowbound1975]

I think you pull your steering wheel and set it straight. As long as the vehicle drives straight or post alignment.

 

[SteamerF18]

I think you pull your steering wheel and set it straight. As long as the vehicle drives straight or post alignment.

A simple solution. Is a steering wheel puller required? I see an SST in the FSM, not sure if this is required or a nice to have.

 

[alpinemechanic]

Correct, after replacing a tie rod end, the steering wheel will be out and the only correct way to fix this is by a wheel alignment!!

 

[alpinemechanic]

For future reference the right way to deal with that is to heat the nut cherry red with oxy, then wind back

 

[SteamerF18]

Thanks for both. Concerning the latter, it looks like I'll need to by a torch set and some oxy! My wife won't understand that one now that the job is complete.