RTH: Torque Spec: Front seats

[freshspecbluegt]

Hi Guys,

Reason to get printed FSM right here!

I have a downloaded copy of the FSM from TIS but the Pdf with the specs for the torque on the mounting bolts has become corrupted and I can't open it. Can someone post up the torque specs for the front seat mounting bolts please. Thanks in advance!

Ross

 

[ybhc]

Whatever feels like is not going to fly apart.

Torque wrench obsession is a bad thing.

 

[Brian Macgyver]

It is pretty easy. Put a socket on a light inpact tool (even an electric one), Tighten the bolt until it will not turn any further, (without stripping it). You are good to go!
It is just a seat!
It is not rocket science!
I removed my original seats and put in Lexus chairs. It wasn't that hard! I had to adapt the electrics. The impact rules were the same, Use a 3/8 impact tool with up to 250 ft/lbs, or a Ryobi electric and tighten it as tight as it can go. That is far too much as the specs go. Your seat will never move. This is way overkill. It is not that hard!

 

[Brian Macgyver]

When I bought my 80, it was rolled. The roof and left side were mashed. They were pretty much fubared. That is.... Fuc.. Up Beyond All Recognition. It was a very hurt truck!
I have had the entire interior removed, including the sunroof. The sunroof was lucky, I very nearly had the only 80 with no sunroof. I straightened it all out. I had all seats removed, all carpets and the rest. It took a lot of shelf space to store all of the interior while I fixed the roof. I had the headliner removed, all of the roof piller trim out, all interior trim out. I am intimately familiar with every little metal part that makes up the roof structure in an LC 80. I had to weld on every one of them.
I straightened every part. I bent every part back into its original form. Then I rewelded them together. After the roof pressing, I smoothed the body and repainted it.
It shows as a pristine 80 series truck. It is straight, until you look at the drivers' door jamb. There it shows evidence of a rollover, but only if you look close. The rest of the door jambs were severely crushed, but they do not show it at all. All doors work well, and seal just fine. Even after a rollover, the truck is one of the tightest and most comfortable trucks that I have ever owned. I have put well over 100,000 miles on it since the roll-over without any concerns. The LC 80 is one hell of a truck.

 

[Brian Macgyver]

The best part is that my 80 is all original except for the windshield, left door glass, right little door glass in the RR door, the drivers' door handle, the left mirror housing, and the left taillight. All of the rest of it is factory original. That was my total parts list for the rollover rebuild. I repaired all body parts except for those. Do not ask me how the guys broke the small glass in the RR door while rolling it back over. I do not want to know. They were having a really bad day. They hated to see this clean truck rolled over.
I fixed it. When I was done, they gave me a lift kit, a 2.5". I still love it. It perfects the truck. It makes it what it should be. A 2.5" lift brings it up to stock level, the way that Toyota intended it to be. It makes it a stock, factory Land Cruiser. It is just the way that the factory intended it to be.
Well....
Except for those steel bumpers. But those are no big deal. As I said to one of my clients the other day, they are just stop sensors. When the bumper hits a rock, I know when to stop. I can't go anymore. Then I stop. It is pretty simple.
The bumpers make driving easy. It is really easy. When the bumper hits a rock, stop. It is not that hard! Then you back up until the other bumper hits a rock! It is not real rock science! Then you drive foreward until the other bumper hits a rock. You can do this all day if you need to.

 

[Polar Bear]

Hi Guys,

Reason to get printed FSM right here!

I have a downloaded copy of the FSM from TIS but the Pdf with the specs for the torque on the mounting bolts has become corrupted and I can't open it. Can someone post up the torque specs for the front seat mounting bolts please. Thanks in advance!

Ross

Just use the GI (gastro intestinal) torque value. While bent over tightening those bolts, pull on the wrench until you fart. Consider that your 'click' . Works like a charm putting together Romac pipe fittings in the ditch, should give you adequate grab.

Seriously- if you have any concerns about being tight enough just add a dab of locktite and call it done. FWIW I've pulled my seats several times for various reasons and never had it work loose just by tugging on the wrench until tight.

 

[Tools R Us]

The proper spec is 27 ft/lb.

Seats are something that I see as important, so prefer to do it right, for two reasons: 1: In the event of an accident, would prefer they stayed in place. 2: The floor nuts are relatively difficult to properly repair, so prefer to lessen the chances of damage.

 

[Tools R Us]

Whatever feels like is not going to fly apart.

Torque wrench obsession is a bad thing.

I guess that depends on how you feel about: Fasteners holding at the correct design tension for the application, plastic deformation that will greatly reduce the holding power of fasteners, breaking fasteners or having them come loose, etc. Personally, these things matter, so will continue to torque critical fasteners on my rig.

 

[freshspecbluegt]

Thanks for the info Tools, I posted for exactly the reasons you mentioned.