RTH - Need to replace radiator?

[Jeff Elliott]

Hi All - In the middle of swapping water pump, belts, pulley, tensioner, fan bracket on my '11 with 138K on the clock (thread here: pulley. Noticed what may be the beginnings of a crack in the top of the radiator (see below). I've already got the radiator drained and would hate to have it let go on me... Is this the beginning of the end for this guy and, if so, what's everyone replacing them with?

Thanks!

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr

 

[DPA200]

100% change the radiator while you are at it. At 138k miles you are on borrowed time with that crack, could go at any time. I changed mine around 115k preemptively before it exploded. My crack looked about the same as yours. You never know, it could go another 50k miles fine, but why risk it. I figured much easier just changing preemptively then waiting for it to burst, then having to clean the whole engine bay, then to change it. Pretty simple job, helps to have 2 people to put the new one back in (one guy under the truck to guide). The current Toyota part no longer has the sharp crease where it cracks. Its flatter and rounded now

 

[bloc]

That crack has progressed pretty far and while it might not go tomorrow, it is ready to soon. I’d put one in now since you have it most of the way there.

 

[CharlieS]

I wouldn’t lose sleep over it, but it is the old style and will eventually probably fail. The stock part has been updated since 2018 and has a better design. Now is the time to do it, while you’re in there and the coolant is drained.

 

[bloc]

As for what to replace with, the updated OEM part is your best bet. Less than $300 from the site I use a lot.. parts.Autonationtoyotasouthaustin.com or any of the discount sites.
Carefully check yours for damage before install. The factory packaging is really meant more for a parts inventory level of protection, not fedex and their apparent drop testing.

 

[Jeff Elliott]

Thanks to all - ordered a new Rad today and it will be here on Friday. Here's a follow up - should I replace the thermostat / water outlet "while I'm in there"? Anything else since I will be open this far beyond all the belt and pulley stuff?

 

[CharlieS]

Up to you. When I do this job on a 200, I replace the water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, hoses, radiator, tensioner, idler pulley, and serpentine belt.

 

[Jeff Elliott]

Up to you. When I do this job on a 200, I replace the water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, hoses, radiator, tensioner, idler pulley, and serpentine belt.

I have all of that except hoses. Will add those as well. Thanks

 

[bloc]

Thermostats don't seem to fail often, but then many here replace them as PM. I'd just do it.

 

[PDoyle]

Heater hose T's......

 

[bloc]

I’d give them a look.. but mine were factory perfect at 105k. Maybe closer to 200?

 

[Jeff Elliott]

Thanks all - Since I'm this deep, what about the alternator. It's right there and I'd have to redo all this if it fails. Do they have a normal range of life (in miles) or fail randomly?

 

[bloc]

Thanks all - Since I'm this deep, what about the alternator. It's right there and I'd have to redo all this if it fails. Do they have a normal range of life (in miles) or fail randomly?

Unless yours is full of mud I wouldn’t bother. Your original just may still go further than even a factory reman anyway.

 

[Jeff Elliott]

If anyone has the torque specs for the fan bracket I'd be appreciative. Found them for the water pump and inlet so that's what I'm missing to complete the job. -

edit - found them... 17 for the small ones, 35 for the big guy.