RTH - engine temp spiked to 216 - overflow boiling

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One word of caution, verify AAA will tow to your shop. Last summer, I had an issue with mine and wanted it to go the the LC shop but AAA denied paying because I chose to send to a shop that was further than five dealerships. I rebutted that two of the dealerships, two of the dealerships told me they would prefer not to work on something that old. Unfortunately the other places said they would and could fix the truck.

It cost almost $800 to learn that lesson and of course I was informed after the tow. Oddly enough eve with the tow the LC shop was still competitive in pricing for the repair.
 
One word of caution, verify AAA will tow to your shop. Last summer, I had an issue with mine and wanted it to go the the LC shop but AAA denied paying because I chose to send to a shop that was further than five dealerships. I rebutted that two of the dealerships, two of the dealerships told me they would prefer not to work on something that old. Unfortunately the other places said they would and could fix the truck.

It cost almost $800 to learn that lesson and of course I was informed after the tow. Oddly enough eve with the tow the LC shop was still competitive in pricing for the repair.
thanks for the heads up in this will research!
 
yep - a good buddy of mine 30+ years in the off-road world said the same....still sucks but hey- worse things have happened eh......

lets see what the combustion test and a good nights sleep figures tomorrow.

thanks all for the comments and help everyone - for sure appreciated!!
Absolutely, my boss just had to do a head gasket twice. Garbage head gasket was the culprit… when he got a fel-pro for the second time around I was like “ you should really go OEM “ ( I love to plant seeds of doubt at the shop ) he wasn’t happy. But the first gasket was in an engine builders kit with a perfectly machined head and in spec block all torqued with a snap-on digital torque wrench.
 
One word of caution, verify AAA will tow to your shop. Last summer, I had an issue with mine and wanted it to go the the LC shop but AAA denied paying because I chose to send to a shop that was further than five dealerships. I rebutted that two of the dealerships, two of the dealerships told me they would prefer not to work on something that old. Unfortunately the other places said they would and could fix the truck.

It cost almost $800 to learn that lesson and of course I was informed after the tow. Oddly enough eve with the tow the LC shop was still competitive in pricing for the repair.
I called the local yota dealer for parts recently cause I get a deal through my shop ( 20% off ) and the old parts guy said when he started in 02 the techs would run when a 80 series would come in…. I told him those jabrones were a bunch of snatches, different stokes for different folks I guess.
 
this is what I had done 35K miles ago - at bottom for last rebuild - i'm hoping the while in there list will not be too busy this time

My buddy whose garage im using says the only thing concerning him is the block - what did they use - even though I told the old garage to use OEM or better - I paid for it..... suppose I'm gonna find out real soon!

any advice here to give the new shop?

while in there:
  1. Head: machined/decked and pressure tested.
  2. Bolts: New Head Bolts (Do not reuse).
  3. Gasket: OEM Toyota Head Gasket - order the yota kit Engine Valve Grind Gasket Kit #04112-66036 | Autoparts.toyota.com - https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/gasket-kit-engine-valve-grind-0411266036
  4. PHH: Replace PHH again.
  5. Valves: New Valve Stem Seals.
  6. Exhaust: Check manifold studs and flange alignment.



• October 19, 2018: Second Engine Rebuild (217,184 miles) after suspected rod knock
• Complete engine assembly removal and replacement
• R&R engine assembly including fuel and electrical transfer
• Engine oil service and inspection
• Steering knuckle rebuild – both sides
• Replaced all seals and gaskets
• Steering box replaced

Engine / Ignition / Cooling Components Replaced:
• Water pump
• Thermostat
• Thermostat gasket
• Distributor cap
• Distributor
• Ignition wire set
• Spark plugs (set of 6)
Brake / Steering / Front End Work:
• Front brakes and rotors
• Steering knuckle service (both sides)
• Steering box replacement
 
this is what I had done 35K miles ago - at bottom for last rebuild - i'm hoping the while in there list will not be too busy this time

My buddy whose garage im using says the only thing concerning him is the block - what did they use - even though I told the old garage to use OEM or better - I paid for it..... suppose I'm gonna find out real soon!

any advice here to give the new shop?

while in there:
  1. Head: machined/decked and pressure tested.
  2. Bolts: New Head Bolts (Do not reuse).
  3. Gasket: OEM Toyota Head Gasket - order the yota kit Engine Valve Grind Gasket Kit #04112-66036 | Autoparts.toyota.com - https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/gasket-kit-engine-valve-grind-0411266036
  4. PHH: Replace PHH again.
  5. Valves: New Valve Stem Seals.
  6. Exhaust: Check manifold studs and flange alignment.



• October 19, 2018: Second Engine Rebuild (217,184 miles) after suspected rod knock
• Complete engine assembly removal and replacement
• R&R engine assembly including fuel and electrical transfer
• Engine oil service and inspection
• Steering knuckle rebuild – both sides
• Replaced all seals and gaskets
• Steering box replaced

Engine / Ignition / Cooling Components Replaced:
• Water pump
• Thermostat
• Thermostat gasket
• Distributor cap
• Distributor
• Ignition wire set
• Spark plugs (set of 6)
Brake / Steering / Front End Work:
• Front brakes and rotors
• Steering knuckle service (both sides)
• Steering box replacement
Toyota has a new gasket that supersedes the original gasket (11115-66020)
New Toyota head gasket (1111566031).
Old on the left, new on the right. Cylinder 6 in the picture.
1769956661046.webp
 
Your engine rebuild is only as good as the person who rebuilt. I wouldn't go with a "buddy" unless that buddy has worked on dozens of land cruisers and actually knows what the heck they're doing with land cruisers specifically. If you decide you want to tackle it your self you can look up OTRAMM's videos on youtube. He gives step by step directions on exactly how to do it. That's what I did.
 
Your engine rebuild is only as good as the person who rebuilt. I wouldn't go with a "buddy" unless that buddy has worked on dozens of land cruisers and actually knows what the heck they're doing with land cruisers specifically. If you decide you want to tackle it your self you can look up OTRAMM's videos on youtube. He gives step by step directions on exactly how to do it. That's what I did.
exactly... poor man pays twice!
 
exactly... poor man pays twice!
Never cheaped out on this rig. Always paid what I thought was premium for 'OEM or better' using an LC specialist for my last rebuild
…. 🤷

I’d love to DIY, but I’m traveling full-time in the rig - taking some time off after 23 years at the same job, 29 in same industry.....

Have researched the new shop and along with a few personal recs looks like a winner.

Sometimes you do all the research, prep and ongoing PM, and life just punches you in the face anyway. It is what it is.....

I'll update when the head is off and see what the deal is......

@Brindleboxer : Managed to split the tow to save the wallet. Initially thought it was gonna be 1350 as 350 mile total journey….
Used my ‘free’ 200-mile AAA tow yesterday, stayed overnight in hotel, then they authorized another 160 miles today with no charge….. got lucky….. No issues at all with needing it to go to a dealer or anything like that .....thanks for heads up!

IMG_4257.webp
 
exactly... poor man pays twice!
I think a cheap man pays twice and a poor man sells the POS after it sits in a field for three years…. And some times the work can be done good and unforeseen circumstances has you pulling that head right the fakk back off. But hopefully it’s on something cheap and easy like a Honda 4 banger.
 
Never cheaped out on this rig. Always paid what I thought was premium for 'OEM or better' using an LC specialist for my last rebuild
…. 🤷

I’d love to DIY, but I’m traveling full-time in the rig - taking some time off after 23 years at the same job, 29 in same industry.....

Have researched the new shop and along with a few personal recs looks like a winner.

Sometimes you do all the research, prep and ongoing PM, and life just punches you in the face anyway. It is what it is.....
completely understand mate and sorry you're having to deal with this again. I've been in similar situations and they are never fun. All about the journey though right? The Cruiser life! haha. Fingers crossed all goes well and she's back up and running ASAP. Let us know how you get on. :)
 
Block was straight, but the head needed decking. Garage did a full valve and guide job while it was off. Fast turnaround and decent price - time will tell.....but they were great to deal with! Back on the road!

Also - want to shout out Tim here - great resource for anyone in the Inyo County off road area in CA - talked me through a bunch of stuff and I know he's helped a lot of folks out who have nothing but good things to say about him
 
Good to hear it worked out for you.
oh and now AAA are wanting 500 ish bucks after the fact - small price to pay but they didnt say I would pay anything when I booked the tows. First tow was 178 miles from mammoth to ridgcrest (via phone) - this was using my 1 x 200 mile tow. Stayed there o/n then I used the automated system online to book my next tow of 140 ish miles - went through no problem - no warnings of overage charges and then got a letter in the mail asking for 500 ish bucks. I'll try to fight it as no one said anything when I was booking - we'll see..... small price like I say but wanted to post up in case anyone in similar situation in the future.
 
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