RTH - engine temp spiked to 216 - overflow boiling

[petegangies]

No bubbles I can tell - got a combustion leak detector kit arriving tomorrow so will take it from there.
Not sure I wanna go the bars leak way - I’m a few months into a year off work (after 23 years at the same place and 29 in same field) - traveling in the car so I need it reliable…. I thought I had done all the PM to get to that point!
Hey ho….
Got someone lined up to do the work - hookup from the off road world - if it’s confirmed. 250 mile tow to the garage - thank god for AAA premier….
Just checked 35k miles on the nose since the last rebuild….

you may need to suck out a bit of coolant from the top radiator tank with a turkey baster etc so you dont draw up coolant into the blue tester fluid. The tester needs to sit fairly air tight on the neck of the radiator filler. I've had a light false positive from loosely doing it while also having an exhaust leak in the engine bay.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Why was your coolant boiling at essentially the boiling point of water? 50/50 Coolant shouldn't boil until ~226 at atmospheric pressure and at ~250~260 at system pressure.
1) are you running a 50/50 coolant mix ?
2) Is your radiator cap bad?

 

[ifsmithy]

new data - see links......

running 50:50 coolant water .

spotted a potential leak near the exhaust manifold on passenger side

video here:


and here


there does not appear to be bubbles into reservoir when I rev to 2000rpm, I run the engine when cold without the radiator cap on and there doesnt appear to be anything violent spewing from the radiator - temp is stable at ideal at 180 ish....... puzzling....

I have my entire maintanence history loaded into Gemini AI and it is linking an odd steering squeak I developed recently to being convinced I have a failed ACV valve that is leaking into my intake to produce the crazy amounts of smoke I am seeing coming out of my exhaust.......and would also explain the rough idle

No maple syrup smell when I put my hand in front of exhaust and smell it. No milkshake on dipstick or in radiator….

I checked the PS resevor and it could be low - late and cold here - will check properly tomorrow but is the ACV valve that nuts?

Could this be 2 unrelated issues - I have travelled a ton through Wyoming, Montana, Utah…..with some brutal temp swings…..

 

[ifsmithy]

you may need to suck out a bit of coolant from the top radiator tank with a turkey baster etc so you dont draw up coolant into the blue tester fluid. The tester needs to sit fairly air tight on the neck of the radiator filler. I've had a light false positive from loosely doing it while also having an exhaust leak in the engine bay.

check my videos out - just posted - seems like a leak from near the exhaust manifold?

 

[ppc]

That could be a cracked head, hope not, but the other choice isn't good as you know.

 

[MissahPapaJ]

This fix makes zero sense when it comes an overheating engine. Loose alt belts shouldn't contribute to an engine overheating, perhaps some squealing under load, and possibly some low voltage issues, but not overheating.

I don't know if I consider 216deg an "overheating" condition. I used to routinely pull 220deg going home in the summer in my turbo'ed 80. I didn't like it but it came right down after the climb was over. I did end up getting a RD radiator so no more of those crazy temps! This is winter, and you're climbing a steep hill (maybe?) so is 216deg a big deal? I'm going to guess you got four people + ski gear and driving from nearly sea level to high elevations so you've been flogging the piss out of your engine in 3rd or possibly 2nd gear. That's just a WAG on my part!

I second this. if your boiling over at that temp and something not extra fucckie isn’t going on beyond that I’d be surprised. I’d at least go over all the possible suspects after something like that. I have all the tools in the world to find out bad news with, not every one does. But usually after boil overs there is something else going on, especially if the cooling system had been previously good / untouched for a spell.

 

[MissahPapaJ]

Fun fact not all head gaskets turn to milk shakes some times the fire ring blows out into a coolant jacket and aerates the cooling system. This will over heat under load causing poor cooling due to hot exhaust and aeration into cooling system. In turn over pressurizing the system and boiling over. It my cool down and reseal to an extent….. ask me how I know.

 

[ifsmithy]

That could be a cracked head, hope not, but the other

It’s a new head - or well 35k miles on it….

 

[MissahPapaJ]

It’s a new head - or well 35k miles on it….

This mean absolutely nothing, I’ve seen it all. Also it could be nothing. I’ve had a few rebuilt engines go south. Also “good low mileage “ engines and transmissions. It’s all man made after all.

 

[CruiserDave]

More than likely bad radiator cap since it was such a low boiling point. Change it out so it hold proper pressure to achieve the higher boiling point needed.

 

[ifsmithy]

This mean absolutely nothing, I’ve seen it all. Also it could be nothing. I’ve had a few rebuilt engines go south. Also “good low mileage “ engines and transmissions. It’s all man made after all.

yep - a good buddy of mine 30+ years in the off-road world said the same....still sucks but hey- worse things have happened eh......

lets see what the combustion test and a good nights sleep figures tomorrow.

thanks all for the comments and help everyone - for sure appreciated!!

 

[petegangies]

You dont look for bubbles in the plastic overflow reservoir. You remove the radiator cap and start the car and look into the filler. Preferably after thermostat opens but take a while in an unpressurized system.

 

[jsloden]

When I purchased my 80 a few years ago the seller thought the hg was blown so I got a really good deal on it. I drove it about 100 miles home. Didn't have a single issue. This was all on the highway though. The next day I was driving around town and it started to overheat. Got it back home and you could actually see bubbles in the reservoir. One about every second. There was no milshake, or moisture out of the tailpipe. I drained the system and refilled making sure to get all of the air out of the system and replaced the radiator cap. Same symptoms, overheating and bubbles in the reservoir. I would definitely not put any kind of stop leak product in the system. You'll never get all of that crap out. Fix it the right way.

 

[Malleus]

 

[ifsmithy]

When I purchased my 80 a few years ago the seller thought the hg was blown so I got a really good deal on it. I drove it about 100 miles home. Didn't have a single issue. This was all on the highway though. The next day I was driving around town and it started to overheat. Got it back home and you could actually see bubbles in the reservoir. One about every second. There was no milshake, or moisture out of the tailpipe. I drained the system and refilled making sure to get all of the air out of the system and replaced the radiator cap. Same symptoms, overheating and bubbles in the reservoir. I would definitely not put any kind of stop leak product in the system. You'll never get all of that crap out. Fix it the right way.

100% doing it properly and the right way - 10 year build and whenever I replace anything its always been OEM or if better aftermarket - also keep an ongoing record.....most of the work done is captured below and pictures in my build thread .............mostly I do the work myself but some things I cant (like engine rebuilds).....never planning to sell this thing....contemplated it once....but the number of people coming up to me while traveling telling me how they wish they never sold theirs .... lol

Will update with result of the combustion test early afternoon for (PST).

cheers!




2025
• New OME rear and front shocks at 250K
• New steering stabilizer at 250K
• New transfer case oil 75w90 at 250K
• New oil change and filter at 249K
• New engine air filter 249K
• New OEM Denso starter motor 249K

Major Suspension & Drivetrain Overhaul

• September 2025: Additional front end work
• Front lower bushings replaced
• Iron Man caster plate kit installed
• Front drive shaft replaced again
• 2025 (245K miles): Charcoal canister replaced
• 2025 (241K miles): New front brake pads installed – 100 series pads (larger surface area)
• 2025: New front drive shaft
• 2025: New Iron Man caster bushings and plates
• 2025: New drop-down sway bar links
• 2025: All new rear bushings
• 2025: Two new BF Goodrich All-Terrain KO3 tires installed on front

⸻
• 2024: General maintenance and continued use
⸻
2022–2023 – Drivetrain Upgrades

• August 28, 2023: Replaced fusible links to address battery drain issue
• August 21, 2023: Fixed swinging mirror issue using 3D printed part
• 2023: Slee rear swing-out tire carrier bearings serviced
• 2023: 2 × Renogy Smart Lithium Iron Phosphate 12V 100Ah batteries installed
• 2023: Renogy 2000W inverter installed
• March 2023: Alternator replacement – emergency repair - aftermarket currently installed.
• February 2023: Installed new driveshaft to eliminate driveline growl

⸻
• Summer 2022: Professionally regeared to 4.88 ratio (234,035 miles)
• April 6, 2022: 2 New BF Goodrich KO2 tires (233,604 miles)
• April 4, 2022: New front and rear brake pads installed (232K miles)
⸻
2020 – Expedition Equipment
• August 9, 2020: Mounted water pump for Camplux propane water heater
• August 9, 2020: Installed quick connect for solar panel wiring
• August 9, 2020: Installed 2 key switches for fridge and water pump control
• August 9, 2020: Mounted Slee rear basket
⸻
2019 – Further Upgrades
• October 24, 2019: New hoses to and from charcoal canister installed (223K miles)
• October 24, 2019: New front brake pads installed
• October 24, 2019: New wiper motor installed
• 2019: New driver side door seal installed
• 2019: New battery terminal connectors installed to clean up wiring

⸻
2018 – Second Major Rebuild
• December 16, 2018: Front end components replaced
• New headlight assemblies
• Front grille
• Front valence

• December 16, 2018: New Hella horns installed
• 2018: Rear differential serviced
• 2018: ScanGauge installed
• 2018: New driver seat foam installed
• 2018: New leather seats installed from Land Cruiser Heaven

• October 19, 2018: Second Engine Rebuild (217,184 miles) after suspected rod knock
• Complete engine assembly removal and replacement
• R&R engine assembly including fuel and electrical transfer
• Engine oil service and inspection
• Steering knuckle rebuild – both sides
• Replaced all seals and gaskets
• Steering box replaced

Engine / Ignition / Cooling Components Replaced:
• Water pump
• Thermostat
• Thermostat gasket
• Distributor cap
• Distributor
• Ignition wire set
• Spark plugs (set of 6)
Brake / Steering / Front End Work:
• Front brakes and rotors
• Steering knuckle service (both sides)
• Steering box replacement


• June 16, 2018: Warn winch self-installed


2017 – Electrical System & Repairs
• 2017: Viper alarm system with remote start installed
• Includes 2 key fobs with remote start capability
• System has ability to upgrade to GPS tagging
• 2017: Idler pulley replaced self-installed
• 2017: Power steering pump replaced


2016 – Drivetrain & Protection Upgrades
• 2016: Isotherm Cruise 36 marine refrigerator installed
• 2016: Bumper & Protection upgrades
• TJM T17 Front Bumper
• Slee 80 Series Rear Bumper with dual spindles
• Tire Carrier and Ladder
• 2016: Tailgate storage installed with marine hatches
• 2016: Dometic CDF11 fridge/freezer installed in center console
• 2016: Complete audio system upgrade
• New front and rear speakers
• Rearview camera installation
• 2016: All power steering hoses replaced
• 2016: New charcoal canister installed
• 2016: New liftgate struts installed
• 2016: Fire extinguisher mount installed
• 2016: Fuel filter replacement self-installed
• 2016: Starter rebuild kit self-installed
• 2016: Knock sensor replacement after wire separation
• 2016: New fan clutch installed


2015 – Major Systems Overhaul and head gasket job.
• August 2015: White Knuckle Rock Sliders installed
• July 2015: Upgraded to 35” BF Goodrich All-Terrain KO2 RWL tires
• June 2015: ARB rear locker installed with compressor mounting and electrical hookup
• 2015: New tie rods and drag links from Slee
• 2015: New tie rods and ends installed
• 2015: Front suspension bushings replaced
• 2015: Left and right front caliper replacements with extended soft brake lines
• 2015: New belts and fan clutch installed
• 2015: Magnaflow catalytic converter installed
• April 2015: First engine rebuild at YotaMasters in Corona
• Due to head gasket failure, complete valve job and cylinder head work
• (176,390 miles)
• March/April 2015: Deflaring completed and stock roof rack removed
• January/February 2015: New heater components and valve (was completely corroded)
• January/February 2015: New radiator installed
⸻

2014 – Initial Purchase & First Upgrades
• 2014: Entire cooling system overhauled with new lines
• November 2014: PHH replacement after failure during trip to Mammoth Lakes
• August 2014: ARB high output 12-volt compressor
• August 2014: ARB Air Locker for Toyota LC 12-bolt
• August 2014: Premium suspension system installed
• OME 80 Series long travel sport springs and castor kit
• OME coils front and rear with +20mm height
• Long Travel Sport shocks
• Front caster correction kit

• July 2014: Purchased with 173,205 miles

 

[ifsmithy]

Found the leak…
Fools at the parts store sold me a leak detector kit without the fluid….

 

[Shipwreck]

So that's coolant leaking out of the exhaust manifold junction? Not oil, right?
That's more than just condensation. Cold engine? Or hot, running engine?

 

[ifsmithy]

So that's coolant leaking out of the exhaust manifold junction? Not oil, right?
That's more than just condensation. Cold engine? Or hot, running engine?

totally cold engine - started and ran for less than 30secs - was trying to do the glove test on the radiator and my eye caught this leak - so im thinking the HG has failed and its leaking into the exhaust manifold - its leaking through that junction...
the fluid is red/brown to touch and coming directly from the junction where the two manifolds meet

 

[Brindleboxer]

When you pulled your plugs did any show signs of being steamed/contaminated? This is circumstantial in the long run but will give you a possible indicator as to which cylinder the gasket failed on. Most would bet #6 possibly #5 as they are the most common ones to go.

Also assuming you are running Toyota red coolant.

 

[ifsmithy]

When you pulled your plugs did any show signs of being steamed/contaminated? This is circumstantial in the long run but will give you a possible indicator as to which cylinder the gasket failed on. Most would bet #6 possibly #5 as they are the most common ones to go.

Also assuming you are running Toyota red coolant.

yeah running Toyota red - I have a good hookup for a garage i've worked with before - and while I can do a ton of different jobs on my rig I'm straying out of my comfort zone and dont want to turn a several K job into needing a new engine!
So AAA premier to my garage on monday!

edit - I didnt pull the plugs