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Many thread on "D" Vibration.
I found this took care of common cause.
- Add a can of 44k to fresh tank of 91oct gas, drive to empty, then refill.
- Test fuel pressure. Pinch return fuel line is quickie test.
- Test gas cap.
- Disconnected battery for 30 minutes to reset ECU. THIS IS A MUST
- Check Air filter.
- Check PCV, lines and all vacuum lines.
- Use a spray MAF cleaner.
- Clean TB.
- Clean, Grease & reconnect battery post.
Changing out bad coils should really help. Was your check engine light on?So my wife drove it to toyo today and said that the hesitation was much improved, but there was still a little amount. I'm having toyo go over the truck and do the timing belt anyway, and they mentioned they were going to change out 2 of the coils and all the spark plugs. I was going to do the spark plugs anyway, so hopefully all together this will get rid of the issue. I'll post up if it is completely fixed afterwards or not.
What our the two types of spark plugs?Agreed. Why were they going to change two? Did they pull and inspect them? Perhaps they were cracked? It seems odd that they would change them out if no CELs were thrown.
For plugs, there are 2 types of OEMs, make sure they use one of the two. nothing else.
What our the two types of spark plugs?
Got it back from the shop today, all misfire issues seem cured. I'm not sure how much inspecting was done on the coils, but there was never any codes thrown for it. Most of the time that I've pulled a bad coil, it was because I had a misfire and I would pull each coil until I noticed that the engine didn't change when it is pulled and that pointed to the bad coil, but I don't know what their process was. Either way, all fixed up now so I am happy.
Are you thinking that when one goes bad we should just change them all? At $140 each, I'll just replace them as they go bad on mine I think.
I thought the guy said 4 and 5, but just looked at the paper and it was 1 and 6. I would be curious to know if anyone else has had a bad coil without any codes. I haven't read that others have before so I guess it is entirely possible that cleaning the MAF and TB solved the issue and the coils maybe weren't bad or perhaps bad enough yet to throw a code, but as far as I'm concerned, it's fixed and i'm happy.No, I wasn't suggesting changing them all. Merely inquiring which two were bad and if it was common to have bad coils with no CEL (for future reference).
I don't know about performance, that would be interesting. I put in Denso's as well. I have talked to a couple of mechanics who state it has to be an Iridium and only one of those two, otherwise it introduces more problems in the 2UZ
Where do you find the coils for $65? I'm on vacation right now so just paid the dealer to get it done, but if I can get them cheaper in the future I will. I'm sure CDan can get me a discount but I would be surprised if it is that much off to get me down to $65. Is it aftermarket?See my post 25. Why/how did they determine those 2 are bad, if no CELs' were thrown? And no, you don't have to replace them all at once, just keep a spare with you. Also, I hope you didn't pay $140 each, you can get them for $60-65.